Discussion
Did all Tasmins have separate ballast resistors?
I have problem with my recent purchase ( 1980 FHC 2.8i ) not wanting to run after about 20 minutes, then if left to cool for at least half an hour starts and runs until hot again. The coil, which looks pretty old/original ( Lucas 21C6 ), gets very hot. Not holdable.
I have looked for the ballast resistor on the positive cable but can't find one. The positive cable Black and yellow tracks back through the bulkhead to the other side of the car where it follows other cables back through the bulkhead through the wing and then appears to enter the side of the fuse/relays box ( a sandwich box sprayed black ). Their is also another black and yellow cable that has the same terminal cap on as the positive cable that comes out of the loom but is not used.
Does anybody know whether some cars did not have separate resistors. What coil replaces the one that I have on the car.
Any clues would be much appreciated. really enjoying the car, but journeys are taking twice as long as they should do.
Cheers,
Graham.
I have problem with my recent purchase ( 1980 FHC 2.8i ) not wanting to run after about 20 minutes, then if left to cool for at least half an hour starts and runs until hot again. The coil, which looks pretty old/original ( Lucas 21C6 ), gets very hot. Not holdable.
I have looked for the ballast resistor on the positive cable but can't find one. The positive cable Black and yellow tracks back through the bulkhead to the other side of the car where it follows other cables back through the bulkhead through the wing and then appears to enter the side of the fuse/relays box ( a sandwich box sprayed black ). Their is also another black and yellow cable that has the same terminal cap on as the positive cable that comes out of the loom but is not used.
Does anybody know whether some cars did not have separate resistors. What coil replaces the one that I have on the car.
Any clues would be much appreciated. really enjoying the car, but journeys are taking twice as long as they should do.
Cheers,
Graham.
Hi mate...There should be a Blue resistor wire near the coil...It has a bullet type connector at both ends...I believe these can be replaced with modern resistors but i haven't a clue how to do that...
You could try these guys for the parts you need or flea...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Ideally you want one that is definitely for the 2.8i...It would be Ford capri mk3.
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&...
As for not wanting to run then that could be a whole host of things but the key questions should be when was the last time the car run?
Has it been sat around for ages?
Sorry if you have previously posted up this info...Cheers...Ziga
You could try these guys for the parts you need or flea...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&...
Ideally you want one that is definitely for the 2.8i...It would be Ford capri mk3.
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&...
As for not wanting to run then that could be a whole host of things but the key questions should be when was the last time the car run?
Has it been sat around for ages?
Sorry if you have previously posted up this info...Cheers...Ziga
If it's a coil designed for use with ballast resistor then it WILL get very hot after a while, it's being overloaded.
The resistance wire allows the use of a low voltage coil, so that when cranking you get a better spark. The resistance wire drops the voltage when running normally.
When cranking, the resistor is effectively bypassed. I'll have to check, but I think that black/yellow wire might be from the starter motor to 'short' the resistor.
If someone has left out the restance wire, then it *might* be the cause....but they may also have changed the coil for a 12 volt one, in which case you don't need the wire. I can't remember if a 21C6 is a 6 volt coil, but that '6' makes me suspect it is....
The resistance wire allows the use of a low voltage coil, so that when cranking you get a better spark. The resistance wire drops the voltage when running normally.
When cranking, the resistor is effectively bypassed. I'll have to check, but I think that black/yellow wire might be from the starter motor to 'short' the resistor.
If someone has left out the restance wire, then it *might* be the cause....but they may also have changed the coil for a 12 volt one, in which case you don't need the wire. I can't remember if a 21C6 is a 6 volt coil, but that '6' makes me suspect it is....
There is very little information on the 21C6 but yes it does appear to be a 6V coil.
If you can run the car and measure the volts across the coil primary (low tension) if it's nearer 10-12V then that's your problem. As Zig says you can fit a ballast resistor but as that coil has been overheated a number of times I would get a 12V one on there, in case your one fails unexpectedly.
If you can run the car and measure the volts across the coil primary (low tension) if it's nearer 10-12V then that's your problem. As Zig says you can fit a ballast resistor but as that coil has been overheated a number of times I would get a 12V one on there, in case your one fails unexpectedly.
Thanks for comments.
It would appear that the existing coil is 12v. I replaced it with a new 12v coil, but the issue remains. Their does appear to be no resistor on the positive circuit.
I have only owned the car for a couple of months and it was used infrequently before I purchased it. It has in recent years undergone a semi resto. Many of the electrical connections are lightly greased and generally in good order.
Is it reasonably easy to source a replacement for the Motorcraft module if this were at fault?
Electricals are not my forte.
It would appear that the existing coil is 12v. I replaced it with a new 12v coil, but the issue remains. Their does appear to be no resistor on the positive circuit.
I have only owned the car for a couple of months and it was used infrequently before I purchased it. It has in recent years undergone a semi resto. Many of the electrical connections are lightly greased and generally in good order.
Is it reasonably easy to source a replacement for the Motorcraft module if this were at fault?
Electricals are not my forte.
tom's dad said:
Thanks for comments.
It would appear that the existing coil is 12v. I replaced it with a new 12v coil, but the issue remains. Their does appear to be no resistor on the positive circuit.
I have only owned the car for a couple of months and it was used infrequently before I purchased it. It has in recent years undergone a semi resto. Many of the electrical connections are lightly greased and generally in good order.
Is it reasonably easy to source a replacement for the Motorcraft module if this were at fault?
Electricals are not my forte.
Hi Mate...You can still get the ignition modules although the ones now are made by intermotor, Apparently they are ok although in general their stuff is shyte...It would appear that the existing coil is 12v. I replaced it with a new 12v coil, but the issue remains. Their does appear to be no resistor on the positive circuit.
I have only owned the car for a couple of months and it was used infrequently before I purchased it. It has in recent years undergone a semi resto. Many of the electrical connections are lightly greased and generally in good order.
Is it reasonably easy to source a replacement for the Motorcraft module if this were at fault?
Electricals are not my forte.
There is an original motorcraft one at the top i believe...Ziga
http://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=CSM7uNLp5...
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