Jaguar X308 3.2 Sport ride?
Discussion
For the X300 there were 3 levels
Sovereign/base think the finest Hungarian goose down pillows. When TopGear compared in to the BM&MB rivals they comment about how well they handled the bumps in the road, and JC said ...Errr what bumps?
XJR firm
Sport The Goldilocks level, just the perfect compromise between ride and handling.
I can't comment on the X308, too long since I drove one.
The X350 has the air suspension. There were some doubts about it's low speed ride quality in the press at launch, but I must admit I never noticed any issues. The Motorway speed ride is like a magic carpet. I drove one from San Francisco to Sacramento, I drive I used to do a lot. The Freeway is mile after mile of unrelenting pock marked concrete, but in the X350 it was almost surreal. You can see the holes coming up, your brain is expecting to feel them... then nothing. Just smooth riding.
Sovereign/base think the finest Hungarian goose down pillows. When TopGear compared in to the BM&MB rivals they comment about how well they handled the bumps in the road, and JC said ...Errr what bumps?
XJR firm
Sport The Goldilocks level, just the perfect compromise between ride and handling.
I can't comment on the X308, too long since I drove one.
The X350 has the air suspension. There were some doubts about it's low speed ride quality in the press at launch, but I must admit I never noticed any issues. The Motorway speed ride is like a magic carpet. I drove one from San Francisco to Sacramento, I drive I used to do a lot. The Freeway is mile after mile of unrelenting pock marked concrete, but in the X350 it was almost surreal. You can see the holes coming up, your brain is expecting to feel them... then nothing. Just smooth riding.
Huntsman said:
How stiff is the ride in an X308 3.2 Sport?
Of all the X300, 308 and 350, which has the softest ride?
It will depend on which diameter wheels you have fitted - especially on the X300 and X308.Of all the X300, 308 and 350, which has the softest ride?
Out of those two probably the most comfortable option would be a X300 with touring suspension (black shocks) on 16 inch wheels and 60 profile tyres. The X308 has a slightly revised rear suspension and different steering rack which feels firmer even though the spring and damping rates are the same. Touring suspension versions of both will give a comfortable, but not sublime ride quality. For that you need any non sporty French car. My Citroen Berlingo rides better than any X300 or X308 I've ever been in or driven.
The X308 sport (green shocks) had a uprated front anti roll bar and and one on the rear too and stiffer springs and dampers. The sport versions are mostly fitted with 16" wheels and 55 profile tyres which combined with the suspension changes comprises the ride significantly. Once you go up to larger 17" Celtic wheels on 50 profiles with sport suspension the ride becomes very harsh and IMO is unacceptable. I had exactly that set up on my previous X308 and the ride at low speeds on poor quality surfaces was absolutely appalling.
Ride quality on any XJ will depend on tyre quality and suspension condition and correct geometry. Even just a few PSI change in tyre pressure will make a surprising difference too.
a8hex said:
I drove one from San Francisco to Sacramento, I drive I used to do a lot. The Freeway is mile after mile of unrelenting pock marked concrete, but in the X350 it was almost surreal. You can see the holes coming up, your brain is expecting to feel them... then nothing. Just smooth riding.
What a coincidence, I have driven that road up through Vacaville to West Sac many times.Thanks both for the input, I'll go do some test driving.
Huntsman said:
Went for a ride in an X300 3.2 Sport last night, it wasn't super soft but it was acceptable to me. Car had a couple of faults but was cheap enough.
Off to drive an X308 4.0ltr LWB Sovereign today.
A X300 Sport shouldn't be super soft, it's a compromised between ride and handling. But the manual gives two set of tyre pressures, normal @ 30PSI and comfort at 27PSI. I tend to run the 27PSI as I prefer the ride and find it doesn't really detract from the handling.Off to drive an X308 4.0ltr LWB Sovereign today.
Went to see an 02 plate 3.2 X308 tonight, higher mileage but newer than the others, on 17's which put me off, also at 130k, the body was looking scruffy.
I have seen an X300 sport, the boot didn't unlock with the central locking.
I've seen 2 X308's, neither of which had the locking working remotely.
I think I want to buy one of the X308's, the 4.0ltr LWB I drove, but what to do about the locking?
On an X308 how integrated into the car is the alarm/locking? Could I get an aftermarket alarm/locking, like a Toad one, to operate the locking remotely?
I have seen an X300 sport, the boot didn't unlock with the central locking.
I've seen 2 X308's, neither of which had the locking working remotely.
I think I want to buy one of the X308's, the 4.0ltr LWB I drove, but what to do about the locking?
On an X308 how integrated into the car is the alarm/locking? Could I get an aftermarket alarm/locking, like a Toad one, to operate the locking remotely?
Huntsman said:
Went to see an 02 plate 3.2 X308 tonight, higher mileage but newer than the others, on 17's which put me off, also at 130k, the body was looking scruffy.
I have seen an X300 sport, the boot didn't unlock with the central locking.
I've seen 2 X308's, neither of which had the locking working remotely.
I think I want to buy one of the X308's, the 4.0ltr LWB I drove, but what to do about the locking?
On an X308 how integrated into the car is the alarm/locking? Could I get an aftermarket alarm/locking, like a Toad one, to operate the locking remotely?
OK, in my experience most minor electrical niggles in an X300 are down to a slightly low voltage on the battery. A good charge does the world of good. A scruffy car is likely to be expensive to put right. I have seen an X300 sport, the boot didn't unlock with the central locking.
I've seen 2 X308's, neither of which had the locking working remotely.
I think I want to buy one of the X308's, the 4.0ltr LWB I drove, but what to do about the locking?
On an X308 how integrated into the car is the alarm/locking? Could I get an aftermarket alarm/locking, like a Toad one, to operate the locking remotely?
I've had the occasional issues with the locks on my X300, first problem was they'd cycle repeatedly locking and unlocking. The dealer could sort this but it went away when I replaced the battery I think, but I've not seen this issue for many years (touch wood). The other issue is that sometimes when you press the lock button twice on the remote it goes straight to lights on find the car in the car park mode. Charging usually sorts this. One of my key fobs isn't working remotely any more. I needs to check whether this just needs reprogramming, but I've not got around to it, the battery compartment lid on that fob is broken anyway.
As fas as I know the X308 electrics are more complex, an X300 is really simple its just before everything in cars went electronic.
X308 Central locking fobs - if that's the problem, 9 times out of 10 it will be - can be easily repaired and recoded.
To test unlock the drivers door manually with the key. If the security system is working you'll hear a warning chime that gives you around 10 seconds to put the key in the ignition and turn to position 1 before the alarm triggers. If that sequence all works and you can start the engine with the key then there's nothing wrong with the security system.
If any fob works on some little used functions like boot open and headlight on but not on lock/unlock then chances are all you need to do is prise the fob apart and clean the contacts on the PCB inside. If it doesn't work on any function either the battery is flat or the fob needs recoding.
Prise the fob open, un clip and lift out the PCB, turn it over and clean the contact pads and bottom of the rubber buttons with solvent. Fit new batteries - the right way round obviously and reassemble. Do so with all the fobs you have and then sit inside the car with them.
Now do this.
Hold the headlight flasher back and turn ignition key to position 1
Flash the headlights 4 times. The alarm should now enter the programme mode, shown by a beep from the system and flashing LED on the J gate.
Press the lock or unlock button on each fob once. The alarm must beep again each time you do so to demonstrate its reading that particular fob.
To complete the programming the alarm has to read 5 signals from the fobs. If you don't have five fobs it still needs to read 5 signals so say if you have three fobs press lock or unlock on two twice and the third one once, with two fobs press lock or unlock on one twice and the other three times, if you only have one then press the lock or unlock button 5 times.
That's all there is to it. If you f
k the sequence up don't tell anybody, just switch the ignition off and start all over again.
To test unlock the drivers door manually with the key. If the security system is working you'll hear a warning chime that gives you around 10 seconds to put the key in the ignition and turn to position 1 before the alarm triggers. If that sequence all works and you can start the engine with the key then there's nothing wrong with the security system.
If any fob works on some little used functions like boot open and headlight on but not on lock/unlock then chances are all you need to do is prise the fob apart and clean the contacts on the PCB inside. If it doesn't work on any function either the battery is flat or the fob needs recoding.
Prise the fob open, un clip and lift out the PCB, turn it over and clean the contact pads and bottom of the rubber buttons with solvent. Fit new batteries - the right way round obviously and reassemble. Do so with all the fobs you have and then sit inside the car with them.
Now do this.
Hold the headlight flasher back and turn ignition key to position 1
Flash the headlights 4 times. The alarm should now enter the programme mode, shown by a beep from the system and flashing LED on the J gate.
Press the lock or unlock button on each fob once. The alarm must beep again each time you do so to demonstrate its reading that particular fob.
To complete the programming the alarm has to read 5 signals from the fobs. If you don't have five fobs it still needs to read 5 signals so say if you have three fobs press lock or unlock on two twice and the third one once, with two fobs press lock or unlock on one twice and the other three times, if you only have one then press the lock or unlock button 5 times.
That's all there is to it. If you f
k the sequence up don't tell anybody, just switch the ignition off and start all over again. Jaguar steve said:
X308 Central locking fobs - if that's the problem, 9 times out of 10 it will be - can be easily repaired and recoded.
To test unlock the drivers door manually with the key. If the security system is working you'll hear a warning chime that gives you around 10 seconds to put the key in the ignition and turn to position 1 before the alarm triggers. If that sequence all works and you can start the engine with the key then there's nothing wrong with the security system.
If any fob works on some little used functions like boot open and headlight on but not on lock/unlock then chances are all you need to do is prise the fob apart and clean the contacts on the PCB inside. If it doesn't work on any function either the battery is flat or the fob needs recoding.
Prise the fob open, un clip and lift out the PCB, turn it over and clean the contact pads and bottom of the rubber buttons with solvent. Fit new batteries - the right way round obviously and reassemble. Do so with all the fobs you have and then sit inside the car with them.
Now do this.
Hold the headlight flasher back and turn ignition key to position 1
Flash the headlights 4 times. The alarm should now enter the programme mode, shown by a beep from the system and flashing LED on the J gate.
Press the lock or unlock button on each fob once. The alarm must beep again each time you do so to demonstrate its reading that particular fob.
To complete the programming the alarm has to read 5 signals from the fobs. If you don't have five fobs it still needs to read 5 signals so say if you have three fobs press lock or unlock on two twice and the third one once, with two fobs press lock or unlock on one twice and the other three times, if you only have one then press the lock or unlock button 5 times.
That's all there is to it. If you fk the sequence up don't tell anybody, just switch the ignition off and start all over again.
To test unlock the drivers door manually with the key. If the security system is working you'll hear a warning chime that gives you around 10 seconds to put the key in the ignition and turn to position 1 before the alarm triggers. If that sequence all works and you can start the engine with the key then there's nothing wrong with the security system.
If any fob works on some little used functions like boot open and headlight on but not on lock/unlock then chances are all you need to do is prise the fob apart and clean the contacts on the PCB inside. If it doesn't work on any function either the battery is flat or the fob needs recoding.
Prise the fob open, un clip and lift out the PCB, turn it over and clean the contact pads and bottom of the rubber buttons with solvent. Fit new batteries - the right way round obviously and reassemble. Do so with all the fobs you have and then sit inside the car with them.
Now do this.
Hold the headlight flasher back and turn ignition key to position 1
Flash the headlights 4 times. The alarm should now enter the programme mode, shown by a beep from the system and flashing LED on the J gate.
Press the lock or unlock button on each fob once. The alarm must beep again each time you do so to demonstrate its reading that particular fob.
To complete the programming the alarm has to read 5 signals from the fobs. If you don't have five fobs it still needs to read 5 signals so say if you have three fobs press lock or unlock on two twice and the third one once, with two fobs press lock or unlock on one twice and the other three times, if you only have one then press the lock or unlock button 5 times.
That's all there is to it. If you f
k the sequence up don't tell anybody, just switch the ignition off and start all over again. Its currently between this (clean and tidy, masses of service history and repairs from a Jag indy, central locking not working, smelly boot)
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2014...
and this (seems expensive but I like the mileage)
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2014...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2014...
and this (seems expensive but I like the mileage)
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2014...
a8hex said:
A X300 Sport shouldn't be super soft, it's a compromised between ride and handling. But the manual gives two set of tyre pressures, normal @ 30PSI and comfort at 27PSI. I tend to run the 27PSI as I prefer the ride and find it doesn't really detract from the handling.
Drove the car home tonight, wheels have just been refurbed, it felt a little hard, checked the book, says 26 front, 28 rear for max comfort, found I have 34 front and 37 rear! Much nicer now.Huntsman said:
Drove the car home tonight, wheels have just been refurbed, it felt a little hard, checked the book, says 26 front, 28 rear for max comfort, found I have 34 front and 37 rear! Much nicer now.
I bet, people forget how much the air in the tyres forms a crucial part of the suspension. Especially on modern cars where there isn't any air, just a rubber band stretched around some alloy wheels.Gassing Station | Jaguar | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff