996 3.4 engine swap differente throttle wireswill not start
Discussion
HI I am in a bit of a dilemma and asking around for help
Here is the short story
my engine number is 66108196 and Vin car is WPOZZZ99Z1S602589 my cylinder diameter is 96 MM which clearly states is a 3.4
the one i bought on ebay is not very clear but reads 04032090 maybe but vin WPOCA29971S651915 ,I manage to get the Heads PN 996104227OR which also clearly states is a 3.4
both written on the heads Vario CAM F1 Head old and new engine
BUt the only difference is the harness for the engine
differences
Mine original engine has 6 wires going in to the throttle
The one I bought has 3 wires in to the throttle (C4 Coupe manual Originally that I was told by seller same as tipronic interchangable )
here details stated when I bough it on ebay
01 Porsche C4 AWD 911 Carrera 4 996 ENGINE MOTOR Manual M96.04 3.4 M96/04 3.4L 76k
You are purchasing the used 3.4L M96.04 Engine -removed from a 2001 Porsche 911 Carrera 4 Convertible 6 Speed Manual AWD(All Wheel Drive) 3.4 DOHC 24V VIN# WPOCA29971S651915 with ONLY 76k MILES
This are my thoughts something along the way is wrong
the ebay engine is in my car, it turn but no fire
maybe the engine that is now in my car the ebay one needs an adjustment to start I put my old wire harness in the ebay engine to fit My throttle but I have missing cables
tiptronic probably needs more sensors then manual
Is there something i am missing
Maybe in the ebay engine which is manual I have to fit the older heads?
the car has no battery for 4 months too
going nuts can any one help?
Here is the short story
my engine number is 66108196 and Vin car is WPOZZZ99Z1S602589 my cylinder diameter is 96 MM which clearly states is a 3.4
the one i bought on ebay is not very clear but reads 04032090 maybe but vin WPOCA29971S651915 ,I manage to get the Heads PN 996104227OR which also clearly states is a 3.4
both written on the heads Vario CAM F1 Head old and new engine
BUt the only difference is the harness for the engine
differences
Mine original engine has 6 wires going in to the throttle
The one I bought has 3 wires in to the throttle (C4 Coupe manual Originally that I was told by seller same as tipronic interchangable )
here details stated when I bough it on ebay
01 Porsche C4 AWD 911 Carrera 4 996 ENGINE MOTOR Manual M96.04 3.4 M96/04 3.4L 76k
You are purchasing the used 3.4L M96.04 Engine -removed from a 2001 Porsche 911 Carrera 4 Convertible 6 Speed Manual AWD(All Wheel Drive) 3.4 DOHC 24V VIN# WPOCA29971S651915 with ONLY 76k MILES
This are my thoughts something along the way is wrong
the ebay engine is in my car, it turn but no fire
maybe the engine that is now in my car the ebay one needs an adjustment to start I put my old wire harness in the ebay engine to fit My throttle but I have missing cables
tiptronic probably needs more sensors then manual
Is there something i am missing
Maybe in the ebay engine which is manual I have to fit the older heads?
the car has no battery for 4 months too
going nuts can any one help?
6 wire means you have e-gas using motronic 7.2.
3 wire means cable throttle running DME 5.2.
Completely different systems. You will need to fit over the intake stuff and loom from the 6 wire engine into the 3 wire engine to get it to work - if I read correctly that the original car was 6 wire
3 wire means cable throttle running DME 5.2.
Completely different systems. You will need to fit over the intake stuff and loom from the 6 wire engine into the 3 wire engine to get it to work - if I read correctly that the original car was 6 wire
HI Floran that is fantastic finally I get a bit of an answer ! I hope i am reply correctly to the forum,
My Mechanic did so by moving the old throttle to the new engine intake and changing the engine wire loom, but he said this engine have more sensors or wiring ? I need to check with him if he is short on a wire in the old loom or some sensor missing in this new engine, tomorrow I go and see him.
I wonder why does not start?
I like to thank you for your help
My Mechanic did so by moving the old throttle to the new engine intake and changing the engine wire loom, but he said this engine have more sensors or wiring ? I need to check with him if he is short on a wire in the old loom or some sensor missing in this new engine, tomorrow I go and see him.
I wonder why does not start?
I like to thank you for your help
So I went Back to the garage and yes I checked the heads and 996.104.139 1R are 3.4l 996 so confirmed
the only problem is that my original 6 wire throttle harness has only one connection for a Can sensor at the back left near the oil water separator next to solenoids
when this e bay engine has 2 cam sensor one like the old one and one at the front of the heads on the right ( My mechanic thought was a 987 engine? )
will this stop me from start?
the error they get is computer cam signal missing.
so I will try to use and fit at the back left my old cam sensor
any help is alway appreciated thank you again
consider my Car had a software upgrade from monster-garage to get 20 HP and bring back to his original HP after years lost
Still No starting
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/imgs/10.gif
the only problem is that my original 6 wire throttle harness has only one connection for a Can sensor at the back left near the oil water separator next to solenoids
when this e bay engine has 2 cam sensor one like the old one and one at the front of the heads on the right ( My mechanic thought was a 987 engine? )
will this stop me from start?
the error they get is computer cam signal missing.
so I will try to use and fit at the back left my old cam sensor
any help is alway appreciated thank you again
consider my Car had a software upgrade from monster-garage to get 20 HP and bring back to his original HP after years lost
Still No starting
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/imgs/10.gif
HI Floran and Thank you,
If I knew!! would have been great!
I just fund out that the European engine came with one Cam Sensor and in USA they fit 2
So here is what we have
I have a 6 wire Throttle
a wire Harness with sensor connection
an engine correct but 2 sensor connection
the computer has a sensor error ( basically no readings )
what I kin tend to do
Swap from the old engine the sensor
( would I have problem with immobiliser the car been without battery for over a month? )
Thank you again
If I knew!! would have been great!
I just fund out that the European engine came with one Cam Sensor and in USA they fit 2
So here is what we have
I have a 6 wire Throttle
a wire Harness with sensor connection
an engine correct but 2 sensor connection
the computer has a sensor error ( basically no readings )
what I kin tend to do
Swap from the old engine the sensor
( would I have problem with immobiliser the car been without battery for over a month? )
Thank you again
Update,
The mechanic said can not change the flywheel sensor at the back with out dropping again the engine as he said can not reach!
I would have thought If I manage to change before the water/oil separator which is next and much bigger he should have managed to replace the sensor!
Any experience ?
The mechanic said can not change the flywheel sensor at the back with out dropping again the engine as he said can not reach!
I would have thought If I manage to change before the water/oil separator which is next and much bigger he should have managed to replace the sensor!
Any experience ?
Apologies for not getting back earlier on this.
I looked over the wiring schematics for both DMEs (e-gas and non e-gas) and ignoring the intake and e-gas connections (which you should have solved by transferring loom and intake) the only potential difference can be with the hall sensors. All the engine sensors are the same (though the wiring on the looms are not the same)
Cars with OBD2 use two sensors, cars without OBD2 use 1.
It sounds from reading however (and please confirm) that your original car was non OBD2 (i.e. one hall sensor) and the new engine is OBD2 (i.e. two hall sensors)? If so then all that is required is to leave the second hall sensor disconnected. This should be easy enough since you will be unlikely to have a connector for it.
Can you get back to me and I can think further.
I looked over the wiring schematics for both DMEs (e-gas and non e-gas) and ignoring the intake and e-gas connections (which you should have solved by transferring loom and intake) the only potential difference can be with the hall sensors. All the engine sensors are the same (though the wiring on the looms are not the same)
Cars with OBD2 use two sensors, cars without OBD2 use 1.
It sounds from reading however (and please confirm) that your original car was non OBD2 (i.e. one hall sensor) and the new engine is OBD2 (i.e. two hall sensors)? If so then all that is required is to leave the second hall sensor disconnected. This should be easy enough since you will be unlikely to have a connector for it.
Can you get back to me and I can think further.
Hi Floran, you are spot on I guess for the Hall you mean the Cam sensor,
My mechanic has been having the plan to fit the old cam sensor a week ago but no time yet, we think is best to fit the one form my old engine as this could be the reason why don't start, I am travelling to Germany and USA so My Mechanic will do any one knows best way to reach it?
thank you again
My mechanic has been having the plan to fit the old cam sensor a week ago but no time yet, we think is best to fit the one form my old engine as this could be the reason why don't start, I am travelling to Germany and USA so My Mechanic will do any one knows best way to reach it?
thank you again
So is your car non OBD2 and the new engine was OBD2 i.e. two hall sensors?
If so then your having no connector for the second sensor shouldn't make any difference as the ECU isn't looking for the second sensor. An issue would present were the situation reversed however and ECU was searching for two but found only 1.
There is always a chance a sensor is faulty but it suspect its likely to be something else.
Do you know what codes you are actually getting when you give the thing power? Have you checked that the starter is getting 12v on signal when you try to start (as well as 12v on the Battery positive wire)? The immobiliser works by preventing the 12v on signal going to the starter.
If so then your having no connector for the second sensor shouldn't make any difference as the ECU isn't looking for the second sensor. An issue would present were the situation reversed however and ECU was searching for two but found only 1.
There is always a chance a sensor is faulty but it suspect its likely to be something else.
Do you know what codes you are actually getting when you give the thing power? Have you checked that the starter is getting 12v on signal when you try to start (as well as 12v on the Battery positive wire)? The immobiliser works by preventing the 12v on signal going to the starter.
Edited by fioran0 on Monday 2nd June 13:37
Understood. At least that is a better problem than needing two sensors and only having one.
I believe you can get it out without dropping the engine but I have never tried. Going at it from underneath the car may work but its right on the top rear corner of the engine so who knows. One way to find out
I did have a thought as to whether the number of markers on the cams may be different and be causing you an issue but I checked PET and the cams are the same for all variants of 3.4 engines.
Hopefully it is something simple and wiring isn't on quite right or the sensor is bad.
Is there only the one code or are there others? There is always a risk something was pinched or a ground eyelet was left off?
Thats positive that its turning over.
I believe you can get it out without dropping the engine but I have never tried. Going at it from underneath the car may work but its right on the top rear corner of the engine so who knows. One way to find out
I did have a thought as to whether the number of markers on the cams may be different and be causing you an issue but I checked PET and the cams are the same for all variants of 3.4 engines.
Hopefully it is something simple and wiring isn't on quite right or the sensor is bad.
Is there only the one code or are there others? There is always a risk something was pinched or a ground eyelet was left off?
Thats positive that its turning over.
HI Floran here is a small update,
Apparently the sensor is fine, my mechanic injected manually some fuel in the throttle and the car fire for a short time, then he realise that the Fuel pump is not on, but the fuel pump is good!
and the relay too, so he thinks is the key gone bad and the immobiliser kicked in,
I am going to try the spare key
Is it possible that leaving the car with out the battery for 6 weeks has done that?
any chance any one know how to fix it?
I am really tired to drive the family car every day!
thanks
Apparently the sensor is fine, my mechanic injected manually some fuel in the throttle and the car fire for a short time, then he realise that the Fuel pump is not on, but the fuel pump is good!
and the relay too, so he thinks is the key gone bad and the immobiliser kicked in,
I am going to try the spare key
Is it possible that leaving the car with out the battery for 6 weeks has done that?
any chance any one know how to fix it?
I am really tired to drive the family car every day!
thanks
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