Removing Precats and fitting Y Piece
Discussion
No video but it's not as hard as it may seem.
I'd remove manifolds and do it on a bench, borrow a proper hammer drill and a long drill bit, at least 300mm long.
Clamp manifold and gently let the hammer action do the work,
You will be going in at an angle but as the hammer breaks up the pre cat it soon starts to fall apart.
I also used a chisel to help but be very carefull not to go through pre cat and dent the manifold ( as I did)
Use gloves and a mask if your in doors but that's about it.
It takes awhile but saved me a few hundred quid, at least!
The results are rather nice, loads more pops and bangs on overrun and def seems to breath better. The lower temps in engine bay is a big +
Alun
I'd remove manifolds and do it on a bench, borrow a proper hammer drill and a long drill bit, at least 300mm long.
Clamp manifold and gently let the hammer action do the work,
You will be going in at an angle but as the hammer breaks up the pre cat it soon starts to fall apart.
I also used a chisel to help but be very carefull not to go through pre cat and dent the manifold ( as I did)
Use gloves and a mask if your in doors but that's about it.
It takes awhile but saved me a few hundred quid, at least!
The results are rather nice, loads more pops and bangs on overrun and def seems to breath better. The lower temps in engine bay is a big +
Alun
Ok, you need a bible, use the search engine on here to get into the detail but if you've never worked on these cars it might be best to use a garage. The drivers side manifold needs the starter motor removing to gain access to the rear manifold bolt.
It takes a bit of time.
You can do the pre cat removal with manifolds in situ,
I just didn't like the idea of bits getting into my engine but now I've done the job I think it's possible to do it that way.
Removing the exhaust is a task, you need to remove or lower rear anti role bar etc.
Non of these jobs are complicated but having the nack is another thing!
I'm sure a decent mechanic can do it for you.
It takes a bit of time.
You can do the pre cat removal with manifolds in situ,
I just didn't like the idea of bits getting into my engine but now I've done the job I think it's possible to do it that way.
Removing the exhaust is a task, you need to remove or lower rear anti role bar etc.
Non of these jobs are complicated but having the nack is another thing!
I'm sure a decent mechanic can do it for you.
It can be done with manifolds in situ, that's how i did it. The lambda sensors MUST be removed before hand. If you decide to have a go yourself you will need a selection of chisels, long handled screwdrivers (that you don't mind ruining), hammers etc. I even found a long handled shoe horn quite useful for scraping out any last scraps. I'd allow 3 hours + for each side (including tea & swearing breaks) and a lot of sweat & determination.
It's a bit of a pig but the results are worth it IMHO.
I'm sure there'll be others along with more advice soon.
P.S. Take care & try not to force any debris back along the manifold toward the ports, and before refitting lambdas & Y-piece seal a couple of old pillow cases (or similar) around the free end of the manifolds, cover your ears, start the engine to clear out the crap left over (you might want to warn the neighbours first !).
It's a bit of a pig but the results are worth it IMHO.
I'm sure there'll be others along with more advice soon.
P.S. Take care & try not to force any debris back along the manifold toward the ports, and before refitting lambdas & Y-piece seal a couple of old pillow cases (or similar) around the free end of the manifolds, cover your ears, start the engine to clear out the crap left over (you might want to warn the neighbours first !).
Just done this, on the driveway on axle stands, wasn't difficult just pain to get at some of the bolts.
1) undo rear anti-roll bar clamps and rotate bar to allow exhaust through
2) undo rear exhaust hanger, and centre box tray (outer bolts only)
3) undo u-clamp at front join to bottom of y-piece + bolt through bracket into the engine block
4) seperate exhaust by tugging from rear
5) undo y-piece clamps - disconnect wiring to lambdas & remove lambdas if you have 17mm lambda socket.
6) remove ht leads/plug extenders
7) undo passenger side manifold bolts which you can now access without exhaust in place & remove manifold
8) Disconnect negative lead from battery, in prep for step 8
9) Remove starter motor to gain much easier access to driver side manifold bolts
10) If you have aircon you will need to undo the three bolts holding the pump to the block so this can be moved enough to allow manifold to be removed, you may also need to undo the expansion tank from front wing to aid removal of manifold.
Once manifolds are off you can then extract the cats with drill/chisels etc whatever weapon takes your fancy - make sure to give them a good flush out to blow out any last bits of the cats that are in there!
11) whilst manifolds are off it's a good time to check the faces & also check for leaks in the 4>1 sections etc - repair if necessary.
12) You now have great access to the engine bay and can do lots of work which you can't normally get to e.g chassis refurb ,heat shields or power steering etc etc
refitting is the usual of do this in reverse!
Clive's work is legendary on here and the fit is always good - tip for refitting the y-piece get both manifolds on but do not nip them up until you have the y-piece join together and sealed.
Regards
UKDJ
1) undo rear anti-roll bar clamps and rotate bar to allow exhaust through
2) undo rear exhaust hanger, and centre box tray (outer bolts only)
3) undo u-clamp at front join to bottom of y-piece + bolt through bracket into the engine block
4) seperate exhaust by tugging from rear
5) undo y-piece clamps - disconnect wiring to lambdas & remove lambdas if you have 17mm lambda socket.
6) remove ht leads/plug extenders
7) undo passenger side manifold bolts which you can now access without exhaust in place & remove manifold
8) Disconnect negative lead from battery, in prep for step 8
9) Remove starter motor to gain much easier access to driver side manifold bolts
10) If you have aircon you will need to undo the three bolts holding the pump to the block so this can be moved enough to allow manifold to be removed, you may also need to undo the expansion tank from front wing to aid removal of manifold.
Once manifolds are off you can then extract the cats with drill/chisels etc whatever weapon takes your fancy - make sure to give them a good flush out to blow out any last bits of the cats that are in there!
11) whilst manifolds are off it's a good time to check the faces & also check for leaks in the 4>1 sections etc - repair if necessary.
12) You now have great access to the engine bay and can do lots of work which you can't normally get to e.g chassis refurb ,heat shields or power steering etc etc
refitting is the usual of do this in reverse!
Clive's work is legendary on here and the fit is always good - tip for refitting the y-piece get both manifolds on but do not nip them up until you have the y-piece join together and sealed.
Regards
UKDJ
Edited by ukdj on Friday 23 May 12:47
Hello everybody!
I need your help gentlemen
I would like to contact Clive F and buy a Y
Indeed, I bought a Griffith 6 weeks ago (a dream came true!) and I would like to improve performance and sound
Sorry for my english but I am french and live in Paris
Waiting for your answer...asap (I am so impatient!)
Thanks for your help
I need your help gentlemen
I would like to contact Clive F and buy a Y
Indeed, I bought a Griffith 6 weeks ago (a dream came true!) and I would like to improve performance and sound
Sorry for my english but I am french and live in Paris
Waiting for your answer...asap (I am so impatient!)
Thanks for your help
Last I saw on Facebook he had a couple left after some people dropped out..
As said you can email him through here.. Clive F
or.. http://www.fbfabrications.co.uk/
He posted in the facebook group too.. https://www.facebook.com/groups/tvrchimaera/
As said you can email him through here.. Clive F
or.. http://www.fbfabrications.co.uk/
He posted in the facebook group too.. https://www.facebook.com/groups/tvrchimaera/
AD77 said:
Just got the Clive F Y piece delivered - as someone with no mechanical skills whatsoever I'm not sure I will be able to remove the precats myself. Anyone know if there is a video guide to doing it?! If not, would any garage be able to do it and how much ?
Here's a quick vid on how to fit the y piece
..... Might help a bithttp://youtu.be/Ec90BudXEv8
ukdj said:
Just done this, on the driveway on axle stands, wasn't difficult just pain to get at some of the bolts.
1) undo rear anti-roll bar clamps and rotate bar to allow exhaust through
2) undo rear exhaust hanger, and centre box tray (outer bolts only)
3) undo u-clamp at front join to bottom of y-piece + bolt through bracket into the engine block
4) seperate exhaust by tugging from rear
5) undo y-piece clamps - disconnect wiring to lambdas & remove lambdas if you have 17mm lambda socket.
6) remove ht leads/plug extenders
7) undo passenger side manifold bolts which you can now access without exhaust in place & remove manifold
8) Disconnect negative lead from battery, in prep for step 8
9) Remove starter motor to gain much easier access to driver side manifold bolts
10) If you have aircon you will need to undo the three bolts holding the pump to the block so this can be moved enough to allow manifold to be removed, you may also need to undo the expansion tank from front wing to aid removal of manifold.
Once manifolds are off you can then extract the cats with drill/chisels etc whatever weapon takes your fancy - make sure to give them a good flush out to blow out any last bits of the cats that are in there!
11) whilst manifolds are off it's a good time to check the faces & also check for leaks in the 4>1 sections etc - repair if necessary.
12) You now have great access to the engine bay and can do lots of work which you can't normally get to e.g chassis refurb ,heat shields or power steering etc etc
refitting is the usual of do this in reverse!
Clive's work is legendary on here and the fit is always good - tip for refitting the y-piece get both manifolds on but do not nip them up until you have the y-piece join together and sealed.
Regards
UKDJ
I don't even know where anti rollbar clamps and rear exhaust hangers are! Is there a guide anywhere that shows you all these things?! I'd rather work out how to do it myself so that i can refix the old Y piece come MOT time should i need to. Does it require moving the exhaust back every time?1) undo rear anti-roll bar clamps and rotate bar to allow exhaust through
2) undo rear exhaust hanger, and centre box tray (outer bolts only)
3) undo u-clamp at front join to bottom of y-piece + bolt through bracket into the engine block
4) seperate exhaust by tugging from rear
5) undo y-piece clamps - disconnect wiring to lambdas & remove lambdas if you have 17mm lambda socket.
6) remove ht leads/plug extenders
7) undo passenger side manifold bolts which you can now access without exhaust in place & remove manifold
8) Disconnect negative lead from battery, in prep for step 8
9) Remove starter motor to gain much easier access to driver side manifold bolts
10) If you have aircon you will need to undo the three bolts holding the pump to the block so this can be moved enough to allow manifold to be removed, you may also need to undo the expansion tank from front wing to aid removal of manifold.
Once manifolds are off you can then extract the cats with drill/chisels etc whatever weapon takes your fancy - make sure to give them a good flush out to blow out any last bits of the cats that are in there!
11) whilst manifolds are off it's a good time to check the faces & also check for leaks in the 4>1 sections etc - repair if necessary.
12) You now have great access to the engine bay and can do lots of work which you can't normally get to e.g chassis refurb ,heat shields or power steering etc etc
refitting is the usual of do this in reverse!
Clive's work is legendary on here and the fit is always good - tip for refitting the y-piece get both manifolds on but do not nip them up until you have the y-piece join together and sealed.
Regards
UKDJ
Edited by ukdj on Friday 23 May 12:47
Sounds like you need to make a trip to your friendly TVR guy, like I did for the same operation. Just too many things to go wrong if you don't have either the expertise or a complete tool set. If you don't have one, just ask. For a man who knows what he is doing, its a quick job to remove the manifolds.
He may not even need to bash the pre cats out. He should (especially if you nudge him) listen to your manifolds with the engine running (bugger all point without, unless he thinks they are conch shells
). There is at least a 50% chance that he will find that the 4>1 junction is leaking on one or both manifolds.
In which case, he will remove them, get them cut open at the fat round bit, and welded from the inside - at which time it is a piece de peees to pop the precats out. The cutting and welding should cost about 100 plus the de-fit and re-fit. Then get him to fit the Clive Y for you while he is at it.....job's a goodun, and your hands should stay clean. Plus, if he lets you watch, you should learn a fair bit about what's where.
He may not even need to bash the pre cats out. He should (especially if you nudge him) listen to your manifolds with the engine running (bugger all point without, unless he thinks they are conch shells
). There is at least a 50% chance that he will find that the 4>1 junction is leaking on one or both manifolds.In which case, he will remove them, get them cut open at the fat round bit, and welded from the inside - at which time it is a piece de peees to pop the precats out. The cutting and welding should cost about 100 plus the de-fit and re-fit. Then get him to fit the Clive Y for you while he is at it.....job's a goodun, and your hands should stay clean. Plus, if he lets you watch, you should learn a fair bit about what's where.
Edited by QBee on Tuesday 27th May 11:11
l6rth said:
An auger bits works better than a masonry bit because it pulls the materials out, bit it will be useless for using on after you have done the job and maybe abit more expensive if you don't already have one long enough. Good luck
Do you mean one like this?http://www.amazon.co.uk/Irwin-10502740-400mm-Auger...
caduceus said:
I thought i was clueless, my advice would be to stay away from the tools .. That drill bit is for wood .Removing the manifolds is not for the faint hearted ,why not try something a bit more simple like changing a spark plug ?even that is challenging .
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