Battery drain/ Bypass Alarm ?
Discussion
so Battery (brand new) will go from full to flat in a day while it was in getting radiator sorted.
Went to pick it up today and the issue seems worse.
The battery will happily charge away off car but as soon as its in the car there is something draining. We did find the fuel pump relay was toast but even with that removed the battery was draining faster than it was being charged.
The garage think its the alarm system ??? Anything else to look at ???
Also to keep testing he wants to bypass alarm/imobaliser - can anyone help with the procedure or point in right direction to look. Am I right in thinking the actual alarm unit is behind dashboard ?
Ta all
Went to pick it up today and the issue seems worse.
The battery will happily charge away off car but as soon as its in the car there is something draining. We did find the fuel pump relay was toast but even with that removed the battery was draining faster than it was being charged.
The garage think its the alarm system ??? Anything else to look at ???
Also to keep testing he wants to bypass alarm/imobaliser - can anyone help with the procedure or point in right direction to look. Am I right in thinking the actual alarm unit is behind dashboard ?
Ta all
Set multimeter to 20Amp scale if you have it, if not 10Amp (probably have to move the meter +lead to different socket on meter too)
Ignition Off
remove -ve lead from battery connect meter in between -ve lead and -ve battery terminal
this will tell you what the standing current drain is - a healthy system would be pulling milliamps and certainly < 1amp
next work your way through the fuse box removing/replacing 1 fuse at a time until the meter reading reduces to an acceptable level
when you have found which fuse it is, you can then identify which circuits this fuse protects and start investigating poor/shorted connections etc
Regards
UKDJ
Ignition Off
remove -ve lead from battery connect meter in between -ve lead and -ve battery terminal
this will tell you what the standing current drain is - a healthy system would be pulling milliamps and certainly < 1amp
next work your way through the fuse box removing/replacing 1 fuse at a time until the meter reading reduces to an acceptable level
when you have found which fuse it is, you can then identify which circuits this fuse protects and start investigating poor/shorted connections etc
Regards
UKDJ
Electrics are a black art so please forgive my less than technical description.
In garage atatched to the charger the battery charges fine. But when in car with nothing switched on it drops dramatically. When alarm sounded it actually dischared the battey to almost nothing in a few mins
In garage atatched to the charger the battery charges fine. But when in car with nothing switched on it drops dramatically. When alarm sounded it actually dischared the battey to almost nothing in a few mins
There is also a possibility that your new battery is a duffer, i had this last year where i bought 2 new batteries from a local motor factor, one for a car the other for a van and both died within weeks, even though the alternators were charging perfectly on both vehicles, had the batteries checked at a local garage and they were both duff, same make but different models, i returned both batteries and bought another pair from a different place, and this solved the problem. Definately worth getting it checked...
Pinx
Pinx
I had the same problem. If I didn't use my Griff for a week the battery would be flat. Problem was sorted by Carl Baker when he ditched the original TVR Gemini alarm for a Meta alarm. He told me it was a common problem. Two years on .... I don't have the problem! So your garage could well be right!
I had the same problem. If I didn't use my Griff for a week the battery would be flat. Problem was sorted by Carl Baker when he ditched the original TVR Gemini alarm for a Meta alarm. He told me it was a common problem. Two years on .... I don't have the problem! So your garage could well be right!
Pinx said:
There is also a possibility that your new battery is a duffer, i had this last year where i bought 2 new batteries from a local motor factor, one for a car the other for a van and both died within weeks, even though the alternators were charging perfectly on both vehicles, had the batteries checked at a local garage and they were both duff, same make but different models, i returned both batteries and bought another pair from a different place, and this solved the problem. Definately worth getting it checked...
Pinx
^^ +1 ^^Pinx
You need a new "quality" battery!! Modern mid-range batteries will not stand more than one or two discharges below 10.5 volts or thereabouts. They have thin cheap plates and they won't give you peace-of-mind until you get a better built battery!!
Something with a 4-year guarantee may cost more but gives a better build!!
There's Halfrauds or these guys (recommended):http://www.tayna.co.uk/Car-Batteries-C48.html
HTHs?
T
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