Starting issues. Help please
Starting issues. Help please
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pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Just collected my 450 from a long chassis refurb. Brilliant job, looks fantastic! Drove home around 30 miles and parked the car for around 15 minutes. Jumped back in, started and drove 3 miles. Switched off again for 4-5 minutes then tried to restart. Nothing....

Dash lights came on and pump primed. (Even the fans cut in as the engine was hot.) Turned the key to start and nothing at all, not even a click. (I don't think the dash lights even dimmed but I may be wrong.) Had to bump start it with some chums and all was fine on the 3 mile drive back home. I then switched off and tried again. It started once, so I turned it off and tried again. Nothing.

Now I know this sounds like the hot start issue but I beg to differ. The alarm and immobiliser was completely replaced 18 months ago by Karl Baker with a new system and this setup overcomes any hot start problems so it really shouldn't be that.

The battery is just over 2 years old and is now on a trickle charger. After 7 hours the light is still yellow so it is still charging. So maybe I simply have a tired battery as the car has been off the road for 4 months, probably without the battery being charged. During the latter stage of the rebuild I'm sure it was started many times over, so again some stress on the battery. The 30 mile drive home should have seen to any charging issues though, so I'm a little stumped. (It had a new 100 amp fuse during the rebuild too.)

I haven't tried it again and will only do so when the charging light goes green, maybe that's tonight or tomorrow morning.

Anyone got any ideas please? confused

ukdj

1,004 posts

213 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Check wire to starter solenoid good clean connection etc, 12v when switch turned etc

Check you have a good earth from the battery to engine block, use a jump lead from battery negative to starter body

same for the high current starter wire use a jump lead to battery positive

Ignition switch would be my next port of call, cheap £15 part and 10-15minute job to change

The usual imobiliser issue shouldn't be the cause if Carl Baker has replaced it all, but you can never say never with TVR electrics.

Regards

UKDJ

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
ukdj said:
Check wire to starter solenoid good clean connection etc, 12v when switch turned etc

Check you have a good earth from the battery to engine block, use a jump lead from battery negative to starter body

same for the high current starter wire use a jump lead to battery positive

Ignition switch would be my next port of call, cheap £15 part and 10-15minute job to change

The usual imobiliser issue shouldn't be the cause if Carl Baker has replaced it all, but you can never say never with TVR electrics.

Regards

UKDJ
Thanks Paul, Connections should all be good as all leads are new (battery moved to boot during refurb) and fitted by very reputable man.

The ignition switch sounds interesting though. Where do you find the part for £15? Do you have a link please? Does it require a new key or is the switch independent from the barrel. As for fitting in 10-15 minutes.... You've probably lost me there.

ukdj

1,004 posts

213 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Yes Dan does good work, although just because it's new or replaced doesn't mean it isn't the cause (never say never
!)

Ignition switch is Vauxhall pt no. 90052497 and fitted to most vauxhalls from around 1990 onwards available from most motor factors for £15 - Vauxhall want silly £'s for it!

as for fitting, yes it does detach from the barrel assembly so you can keep your keys etc - take the steering column cowling off remove electrical connector from the ignition switch then look for a small grub screw on the side of the barrel, remove this there is also another grub screw behind but this is impossible to get at, just ease the switch back towards the front of the car whilst pulling towards the passenger seat and the switch will come out - put the new one back in at much the same angle in reverse.

If you get stuck let me know.

Regards

UKDJ

Edited by ukdj on Saturday 24th May 20:44


Edited by ukdj on Saturday 24th May 20:45

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
OK, thanks again Paul. I shall try it tomorrow early morning (Accumate light is still yellow) and go from there.

If it is the ignition switch I might struggle to find one on a Sunday. I'm due at an event with the Tiv on Monday so I need to try to get it sorted tomorrow some how. No pressure!

QBee

22,470 posts

173 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
"battery moved to the boot"

Five words I dread.

The extra cable length could be the issue if the cables haven't been seriously uprated.
Resistance reduces the power arriving at the starter.

Resistance is
reduced by having a thicker cable (so good jump leads are thicker),
increased by cables being thinner,
increased by them being hotter,
increased by them being longer.

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Thicker cables have been used for this very reason. smile

ukdj

1,004 posts

213 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
SC Motor Factors Welling Branch are open Sunday

Welling Branch

132 Upper Wickham Lane, Welling,
Kent, DA16 3DP

Directions/Map


Tel: 020 8317 7774

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Paul - once again. You're a diamond. Just been to the garage (battery still charging) and couldn't resist (no pun intended) turning the key. Eureka! Sprang into life, good as gold! smile Repeatedly. I guess this probably eliminates the ignition switch and leaves either a heat issue or a tired battery. Dan fitted the thicker cables, the same as on his own car and has never suffered any issues.

The Accumate will do its stuff overnight and perhaps I will have a green light tomorrow. I will get to the bottom of this and report back when I know for sure the cause. Must meet up on the TITT run! Thanks again.

ukdj

1,004 posts

213 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Ignition switch can be intermittent with no rhyme nor reason to when it appears to fail, it might also be worth checking the standing current drain on the battery before you try starting it again just in case you have something amiss that is discharging the battery quickly - normal load should be in the milliamps range with ignition off and definately < 1 Amp.

Instructions HERE if you need them.

Happy to catch up on TITT run at one of our stopovers, again if you need a hand let me know.

Regards

P

Edited by ukdj on Saturday 24th May 23:09

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Like another correspondent on these pages, electrics are a bit of a dark art for me.

I would certainly appreciate some assistance with that multimeter of yours Paul, if you're passing Bromley way. Good coffee and beer tokens (or even beer) await at the end of a sleepy cul-de-sac. smile

TV8

3,528 posts

204 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Hi Peter, I am not far if you get stuck with the ignition switch but my money is on the battery being fairly flat.

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Saturday 24th May 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Graham. I'm hoping this is the case too.

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Tuesday 27th May 2014
quotequote all
Well the long weekend came and went - and so did the car.

After 10 hours trickle charging the car started repeatedly. Left the trickle charger overnight and at some point the light turned green before 9.00 the next morning. (I didn't stay up and watch it!)

Since then the car attended a display at Crystal Palace (we won best car club display) and started 9 hours later (again repeatedly) in the pouring rail. Also left it 5 minutes after a hot engine and still it restarted.

Of course, there could be an intermittent fault still which hasn't reared it's head again - although I've provoked it. However, I'm suspecting a flat-ish battery to be the culprit here. The battery is always left on trickle charge in the garage so I won't know for sure if this is it. Battery origin unknown put possibly cheap and is now 2 years and 2 months old, to my knowledge.

All I can offer...

EGB

1,774 posts

186 months

Tuesday 27th May 2014
quotequote all
If garaged for 4 months or over winter, good idea to fit a battery cut out switch. Prevents battery drain due to immobiliser and others.

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Tuesday 27th May 2014
quotequote all
Battery was connected and removed from car during this time.

carsy

3,019 posts

194 months

Tuesday 27th May 2014
quotequote all
Its worth noting that the battery conditioner may show fully charged yet the battery has still had it.

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Tuesday 27th May 2014
quotequote all
carsy said:
Its worth noting that the battery conditioner may show fully charged yet the battery has still had it.
This is a very fair comment. Is there any definitive way of checking the battery, other than buying a new one?

I've read much on here about checks and qualified battery specialists, etc. Often it's followed by "...so I bought a new one just in case and it's been fine ever since".

QBee

22,470 posts

173 months

Tuesday 27th May 2014
quotequote all
I would pop into a local place and ask them to test it, and ask the guy testing it to show you the display on his machine. That way you see for yourself if it says 'bad battery'.

Mine was a bit slow starting the car after two months off the road, and after the change of battery (the machine said it was knackered, which apparently is a technical battery term) it has been excellent ever since.

So maybe in some cases it is 70-90 for peace of mind.....but then we don't spend 6-30,000 on a fun car to have it let us down all the time, and make us look stupid in front of our friends and family ("bloody TVRs' always breaking down") do we?

pb450

Original Poster:

1,305 posts

189 months

Wednesday 18th February 2015
quotequote all
Sorry to bump an old thread - my old thread, even. Realised I hadn't 'closed out' on this.

Started with the cheap options first. An additional earth strap was fitted, plu an additional ignition relay. Both were quickly fitted in 10 minutes by Dan Taylor with the car up in the air.

There have been no hot-start issues since - and it's had many hot-start circumstances since. (The only down side is that I don't know whether the earth strap or the relay cured the problem. My money is on the earth strap but I'll never know. Not complaining though. smile Full confidence now resumed driving