Discussion
Hi fellow Wedgers.
Can't seem to see why she is Hunting??
Seems fine on the motorway, accelerates fine, well as fine as I know, never driven another wedge.
But on tick over its Hunting! And when driving on low revs slowly it's lurching a bit?
Any ideas, something simple I could check first??
Rik
Can't seem to see why she is Hunting??
Seems fine on the motorway, accelerates fine, well as fine as I know, never driven another wedge.
But on tick over its Hunting! And when driving on low revs slowly it's lurching a bit?
Any ideas, something simple I could check first??
Rik
Air leaks after the AFM is the usual cause of hunting -although when I had problems with mine it was the little rubber bung on the idle adjustment screw was too short allowing the screw to vibrate loose dropping the idle down too low- as said try setting to around 1k rpm. Also mine is much smoother idling on decent 99 RON fuel. 

Nice one guys.. I've adjusted the throttle to just over 1000rpm
But it's still the same, doesn't stall but, still hunts
I think it could be a leak someware, but can't see where,
Should you be able to hea air?? I can defiantly hear something,
The screw directly on top if the plenum, should that be screwed tight clockwise? Not that it is, just wondered?
It's just if I turn it clockwise the sound if the air reduces. But the tick over also reduces.
Rik
But it's still the same, doesn't stall but, still hunts
I think it could be a leak someware, but can't see where,
Should you be able to hea air?? I can defiantly hear something,
The screw directly on top if the plenum, should that be screwed tight clockwise? Not that it is, just wondered?
It's just if I turn it clockwise the sound if the air reduces. But the tick over also reduces.
Rik
Hi mate..980-1000rpm is good..Its best to physically check the hoses around the plenum..
Check all the ones that are blue and orange in this pic of mine.
The screw you are talking about is the idle screw and it controls the air being allowed into the plenum..It shouldn't be closed off completely and I'm not sure the engine would run if it was...Check the hoses first...Give them a little twist to see if they move..Tighten up the clip if they do...Ziga

Check all the ones that are blue and orange in this pic of mine.
The screw you are talking about is the idle screw and it controls the air being allowed into the plenum..It shouldn't be closed off completely and I'm not sure the engine would run if it was...Check the hoses first...Give them a little twist to see if they move..Tighten up the clip if they do...Ziga
Take the big breather pipe off from the plenum end (the one that's connected to the flame trap on the drivers side rocker cover). Blow into the pipe and it should pressurise - you shouldn't be able to keep blowing air into it. If you can there's a leak which will allow the engine to pull air without it going through the AFM.
I had a big problem with this as you could easily blow through the pipe due to the rocker gasket completely failing to seal on the rocker in one section. Sorter the rocker gasket and it sorted the idle. If this is the problem with yours thank Adam Quantrell for this tip!
I had a big problem with this as you could easily blow through the pipe due to the rocker gasket completely failing to seal on the rocker in one section. Sorter the rocker gasket and it sorted the idle. If this is the problem with yours thank Adam Quantrell for this tip!
Thanks again guys, I have to say the main hose is a bit makeshift, but does still look sealed and tight!
Will defo try blowing that hose... Ahem!
I have had the rockers off to paint, could be it's not seated right,
Will give all these things a go tomorrow dudes
Really thanks again as always so helpful on this forum!
Rik
Will defo try blowing that hose... Ahem!
I have had the rockers off to paint, could be it's not seated right,
Will give all these things a go tomorrow dudes
Really thanks again as always so helpful on this forum!
Rik
smash said:
Take the big breather pipe off from the plenum end (the one that's connected to the flame trap on the drivers side rocker cover). Blow into the pipe and it should pressurise - you shouldn't be able to keep blowing air into it. If you can there's a leak which will allow the engine to pull air without it going through the AFM.
I had a big problem with this as you could easily blow through the pipe due to the rocker gasket completely failing to seal on the rocker in one section. Sorter the rocker gasket and it sorted the idle. If this is the problem with yours thank Adam Quantrell for this tip!
Hi mateI had a big problem with this as you could easily blow through the pipe due to the rocker gasket completely failing to seal on the rocker in one section. Sorter the rocker gasket and it sorted the idle. If this is the problem with yours thank Adam Quantrell for this tip!
Yeah I can easily blow into that pipe, did it about 7 times, no resistance at all,
So maybe take my rocker off and check it's sealing right, is that right?
Rik
There are meant to be four holes into the crankcase.
1) Oil filler - make sure the cap/orange think is on properly.
2) the flame trap, this is where you are blowing into.
3) the breather - on the opposite rocker from the flame trap, this should have a small hole and an oil trap/gauze over it, it should not pass too much air at breath pressure.
4) the dipstick - make sure that this is fully in the hole.
Any other holes should be noticeable by fairly big oil leaks, they could be in the rocker gaskets (especially if you have just had one off), the valley gasket, the sump oil seal, the front crank seal or the rear crank seal - not much else to leak.
You need an assistant to help you test who can feel the draught on the back of their hand.
Last thing is to wipe your lips after blowing because you will have a black circle around them ;-))
Russ
1) Oil filler - make sure the cap/orange think is on properly.
2) the flame trap, this is where you are blowing into.
3) the breather - on the opposite rocker from the flame trap, this should have a small hole and an oil trap/gauze over it, it should not pass too much air at breath pressure.
4) the dipstick - make sure that this is fully in the hole.
Any other holes should be noticeable by fairly big oil leaks, they could be in the rocker gaskets (especially if you have just had one off), the valley gasket, the sump oil seal, the front crank seal or the rear crank seal - not much else to leak.
You need an assistant to help you test who can feel the draught on the back of their hand.
Last thing is to wipe your lips after blowing because you will have a black circle around them ;-))
Russ
TVRIK said:
Hi mate
Yeah I can easily blow into that pipe, did it about 7 times, no resistance at all,
So maybe take my rocker off and check it's sealing right, is that right?
Rik
Yep - sounds like you've found it. Rocker cover off and check seating - use rubber gaskets next time as they seat easier than cork and have a greater margin for error.Yeah I can easily blow into that pipe, did it about 7 times, no resistance at all,
So maybe take my rocker off and check it's sealing right, is that right?
Rik
Also check the flame trap is screwed on tight to the rocker cover.
If you've got power steering you may struggle at 850 rpm idle.
Edited by smash on Monday 26th May 10:14
smash said:
Yep - sounds like you've found it. Rocker cover off and check seating - use rubber gaskets next time as they seat easier than cork and have a greater margin for error.
Also check the flame trap is screwed on tight to the rocker cover.
If you've got power steering you may struggle at 850 rpm idle.
Got to be it Smash!! See pic!!!Also check the flame trap is screwed on tight to the rocker cover.
If you've got power steering you may struggle at 850 rpm idle.
Edited by smash on Monday 26th May 10:14
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