Tyres shocker

[Hackney]

Rode over to Richmond Park yesterday and realised - as I entered the park - that I had a flat. Not had many on this bike, one I think.
The tyre was an absolute bd to get off. It took us ages. Anyway, replaced inner tube, checked inside the tyre and refitted. Startd pumping it up using my small Lezyne pump that I'm not very happy with, but didn't seem to be getting anywhere.

A passer-by told me the bike hire place had a track pump so we headed over there to use that. The tyre seemed to go up and then deflate. And the guy at the rental shop - although trying to be helpful I'm sure - really pissed me off by telling me I hadn't done this or that; hadn't loosened the valve etc.
Eventually we discovered that the rim tape had a hole which had caused a second puncture in the new tube. It seems as though the original puncture was caused by a pothole, the impact damaging the rim tape somehow.

Luckily they had some spare rim tape which we fitted along with a new tube. All good. Few laps of Richmond Park, got really drenched on the way home.
Later on I was checking the rim and tyre - as the mechanic suggested the tyre was too small, hence the difficulty getting it off the rim - and I noticed the tyre was flat again.

Mad. As. Hell.

I'm sure the tyres are the right size, they're the ones the bike came with when I bought it, but I've just bought new tyres anyway.
It really was that difficult to get them off!

Gone for Continental GP4000S II on the recommendation of a friend. Should arrive tomorrow, so I have two bd tyres to change tomorrow night. Can't wait.

Edited by Hackney on Tuesday 27th May 17:00

[anonymous-user]

if they are going to be a tight fit on the rim, warm the tyres up with a hair dryer for a few minutes first and use a little bit of washing up liquid on the bead to get it over the rim but dont use much and wash it off afterwards.... talcum powder does the same job and is worth a try

[wobert]

Not much use when you are out and have a flat, but try a water / fairy liquid solution on the tyre bead when re-fitting the tyres. Makes them a doddle to refit!

[walm]

Did you fully deflate and push the tyre wall to the middle of the rim?
I found that if you have the tyre right in the lowest part of the rim you can persuade it on and off far more easily.

I don't know the official vocab so here's one in what looks like German:


So what I mean is that I always aim to have the Draht (im Mantel) pushed down towards the Felge all the way around the rim except where I am popping it on or off.
And so far, my wife has never complained... wait, that's something else.

What seems to happen is that the smaller diameter of the wheel at the rim tape gives you more slack than if you have it in the regular "clinched" position.

[yellowjack]

rough translation of the German terminology:

montierhebel - tyre lever
ventilschaft - valve stem

felge - rim
felgenband - rim tape
felgenbremse - rim braking surface
draht - wire (draht im mantel is 'tyre bead')
mantel - tyre carcass (literal translation is 'jacket')
schlauch - tube (literal translation is 'hose')
voll aufgepumpt - fully inflated
die lauffläche - the tread


What I think walm is trying to say is...

"Starting at the valve, pinch the tyre beads together, and stuff them as far down in toward the rim tape as you can, then continue doing this around the tyre, as far as at least half the circumference. This should earn you an extra few millimetres of slack opposite the valve, which means the last section of the tyre ought to then require less effort to push over the rim. Then, as you inflate the tyre, check to see that the tyre bead seats correctly in the rim, and doesn't 'pop' out as you pump away at it."

Good luck. I don't think you'll regret the Continetal tyres. Good choice.

Edited by yellowjack on Tuesday 27th May 17:30

[walm]

Indeed.
That.

[Fotic]

walm said:

Did you fully deflate and push the tyre wall to the middle of the rim?
I found that if you have the tyre right in the lowest part of the rim you can persuade it on and off far more easily.

I don't know the official vocab so here's one in what looks like German:


So what I mean is that I always aim to have the Draht (im Mantel) pushed down towards the Felge all the way around the rim except where I am popping it on or off.
And so far, my wife has never complained... wait, that's something else.

What seems to happen is that the smaller diameter of the wheel at the rim tape gives you more slack than if you have it in the regular "clinched" position.

Good post and great description.

[PHmember]

Always worth putting the brand new tyres completely on the rim & taking them off again 2 or 3 times before even putting the inner tube in. It'll give the new tyres a decent stretch without the risk of puncturing the tube.

[Barchettaman]

Lubrication, as so often in life, is the key.

[Steve vRS]

I carry a small bottle of hotel shampoo in my saddle bag for such eventualities. Or to wash my hair with.

Steve

[Hackney]

All good advice, which I shall be using this evening as it looks like my new tyres, tubes, tyre levers, pump and socks will be arriving today from Chain Reaction.
I still can't believe how difficult it was to get the original tyres off, so may pre-bandage my knuckls just in case.



(I know the socks arent't necessary, but I needed some)

[shouldbworking]

Did you address the actual problem causing the punctures? sounds like a spoke may be too long, puncturing the rim tape and hence the tube. Putting new tape on would only cure it as long as it took to wear through the new tape.

[Hackney]

Not yet, but I will.
I discovered the puncture at about 10pm on Monday. Ordered everything yesterday and it arrived today. I figured I'd look at everything in one go, rather than just take everything apart last night. If another issue arises I'll have more time tomorrow to resolve it than either yesterday or today.

I'm now surrounded by boxes - all the bike stuff arrived as did some elivar products and a case of virgin wines.
One way or another I'll get through the evening.