Options for moving a car
Discussion
Hi all
I have a little project going on at the moment supercharging my mx5. As I'm nearing the end of the installation I'm thinking about how to move it 160 miles the a well respected megasquirt tuner. The supercharger kit was second hand from an identical car, and was already mapped to run in a car with the same engine. So, my options are:-
Thoughts? I'm leaning towards the A frame as the cheapest option. Any reason not to use this? It has the added benefit of being able to be dismantled and thrown in the boot so I don't have to immediately drive back like I would with a trailer/ beaver tail.
Note: all options I'm covered for with respect to my license.
I have a little project going on at the moment supercharging my mx5. As I'm nearing the end of the installation I'm thinking about how to move it 160 miles the a well respected megasquirt tuner. The supercharger kit was second hand from an identical car, and was already mapped to run in a car with the same engine. So, my options are:-
- Drive it as-is with the map not set for my car and none of the input values being known/ tuned for (don't like this option)
- shiply. Currently quoting £170
- rent a beaver tail. About £110 inclusive of fuel
- borrow my FiL's ford thunder and rent a car trailer plus add fuel. Comes in around £100
- borrow the truck and use a rented a frame. Comes in about £60
Thoughts? I'm leaning towards the A frame as the cheapest option. Any reason not to use this? It has the added benefit of being able to be dismantled and thrown in the boot so I don't have to immediately drive back like I would with a trailer/ beaver tail.
Note: all options I'm covered for with respect to my license.
The Nur said:
I don't know about the practicalities but if I was moving a car 160 miles I wouldn't want it on an A-frame. It may well be safe but I wouldn't trust it.
Good advice. Dollies are good short distance movers but not for 160 miles. I would use a decent Trailer hired or whatever. I am fortunate to own a Brian Lames trailer (many kit cars) and towing is a doddle. Your MX5 must be valuable to you: I would treat it appropriately.Option 2 for me.
You get it moved when you want, it's fully insured, you know exactly what it will cost.
Hiring or borrowing is all very well but other expenses; eg a puncture come out of your pocket. Maybe I'm just unlucky but if I ever borrow a car or trailer I always seem to end up with a hidden expense!
You get it moved when you want, it's fully insured, you know exactly what it will cost.
Hiring or borrowing is all very well but other expenses; eg a puncture come out of your pocket. Maybe I'm just unlucky but if I ever borrow a car or trailer I always seem to end up with a hidden expense!
The Nur said:
I don't know about the practicalities but if I was moving a car 160 miles I wouldn't want it on an A-frame. It may well be safe but I wouldn't trust it.
Back in the 80's when I lived in SA, I towed a MK II Escort the best part of 800 miles on an 'A' frame behind a Nissan Skyline.I must admit I had some hairy moments!!!
Stopping was the worst - I needed to allow significantly longer distances...
talksthetorque said:
Is the shiply quote both ways?
I don't think so. I intend to just get a train/ lift down to collect it! It'll be tuned and ready to rock. On shiply I just out in a start and finish post code. So I assume the quote is one way. Another quote came on last night which was only £10 more than hiring the beavertail so when it's ready I will go with it.
The Moose said:
Genuine question - how do RAC manage it?
I believe they use a braked dolly (under the car's front axle) whereas an A-frame has no wheels and is just a rigid tow rope effectively. It has no braking capacity therefore can only legally be used for recovery to a safe place or very light vehicles.Gassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


