Starter motor removal - quick and easy?
Starter motor removal - quick and easy?
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Discussion

smash

Original Poster:

2,062 posts

258 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
quotequote all
So I spoke to a lcoal specialist for alternators and starter motors and he's happy to look at and repair the starter if I can get it sdown to him.

So.....question is - disconnect battery couple of bolts I guess but how easy/quick is it to get out?

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
quotequote all
Can be easy or tricky depending on the bolts. If they are the hex-drive ones then find a matching bit for your socket set or chop up an allen key and use a socket. Crack each one first - if it goes then you will know it won't be hard. I had one rounded one and it was a pig to remove.

Why bother reconning the starter though - you can get a new one for around £70 e.g. fleabay item 111363488704 but also check the LR specialists and shop around. The modern ones are smaller, lighter and spin the engine faster. As they are smaller they also are further from the exhaust manifold so less heat soak and also you can install a heat shield as there is room.

mrzigazaga

18,814 posts

195 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
quotequote all
Hi mate...I got mine off by first disconnecting the battery and then jacking up the O/S front..Axle stand on the point where the tubes meet..I left the Jack for extra support..Undo the two bolts, Mine had socket heads in so i had to buy a hex head socket set..7mm i think it was..Connectors off..Pull it out..A word of caution though mate be careful as its fairly heavy...Ziga

carob

3,585 posts

241 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
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Only did it once on my first wedge. Pretty much as Mark says, also prepare to scream at it a lot and lose some knuckle flesh. Room is the main obstacle.

Rob

hallsie

2,185 posts

250 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
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A great man once said 'you need the hands of a paedofile' TM Wedg1e..

Good luck!

Stu

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

291 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
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Not too bad on mine, as in nothing special or abnormal, if the right hand front wheel is removed.
Think last time it took a quarter of an hour to take it off.

Rob

smash

Original Poster:

2,062 posts

258 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
quotequote all
Both bolts were loose - ah-ha! I thought this will be the intermitent starter problem.

Took the starter to Southend Alternator Centre anyway for a check and all good.

Rebolted tight and.....still triggering intermitently!!

Also not running on all 8 when first started takes a while for them all to join in.

I give up!!!!

Urban67

126 posts

173 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
quotequote all
Mine was a real pig to get off, luckily we had the manifold off already to repair it so access was slightly better
One of the bolts would not move at all, must have been put in dry, no matter what we did it would not budge
So we basically smashed off the old starter and cut off the head of the bolt turning it into a stud
Then fitting the new Powerlite starter was easy
I would definitely recommend the Powerlite, it works very well
Also renewed the positive lead as it had started to melt on the exhaust manifold
Sometimes a hammer is needed!

Chris

RCK974X

2,521 posts

179 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
quotequote all
smash said:
Both bolts were loose - ah-ha! I thought this will be the intermitent starter problem.
Took the starter to Southend Alternator Centre anyway for a check and all good.
Rebolted tight and.....still triggering intermitently!!
Also not running on all 8 when first started takes a while for them all to join in.
I give up!!!!
Unfortunately, starter sounds like the classic TVR disease, dodgy wiring....only way is to breathe deeply, sigh, and then start inspecting the wires and earths. As with many other threads, it's just too bloody common on our wedges.

Ideas -
Could be the ignition switch ?
Could be a faulty battery ?
you MUST have really good connections on the large wire - battery to starter. It carries several hundred amps when cranking.

(Did these get covered elsewhere ? sorry if they repeat)

Edited by RCK974X on Wednesday 28th May 20:36

mrzigazaga

18,814 posts

195 months

Wednesday 28th May 2014
quotequote all
Urban67 said:
Also renewed the positive lead as it had started to melt on the exhaust manifold
Hi mate..As Chris has said here..Have you checked that the main feed is ok and has not been cooked!..Can you get a short vid of it cranking....Ziga

Wedg1e

27,038 posts

295 months

Thursday 29th May 2014
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Feeble connection of the spade terminal to the solenoid will give intermittent non-starting; has happpened to me a couple of times. Crimped on a new female (sounds a bit iffy scratchchin) and all has been well... not that the bloody car has been anywhere for two years banghead