Wheels and pedals
Discussion
Just took my road bike out of the garage after not touching it in the last 6 years.
It's a oreba sport has 105 gears/brakes but has no pedals on?
Which are the most neewb friendly? shimano pd or spd look ones or speedplay?
Next up is wheels i might upgrade them to campagno scirroco or fulcrum 7 clinchers?
Lastly tyres what do people use nowadays ? puncture proof and grip are my priorities not weight.
It's a oreba sport has 105 gears/brakes but has no pedals on?
Which are the most neewb friendly? shimano pd or spd look ones or speedplay?
Next up is wheels i might upgrade them to campagno scirroco or fulcrum 7 clinchers?
Lastly tyres what do people use nowadays ? puncture proof and grip are my priorities not weight.
egor110 said:
Just took my road bike out of the garage after not touching it in the last 6 years.
It's a oreba sport has 105 gears/brakes but has no pedals on?
Which are the most neewb friendly? shimano pd or spd look ones or speedplay?
Next up is wheels i might upgrade them to campagno scirroco or fulcrum 7 clinchers?
Lastly tyres what do people use nowadays ? puncture proof and grip are my priorities not weight.
All your mentioned SPD pedals are newbie friendly, you will fall over from not getting your foot unclipped in time no matter what pedals....we've all been there. It's a oreba sport has 105 gears/brakes but has no pedals on?
Which are the most neewb friendly? shimano pd or spd look ones or speedplay?
Next up is wheels i might upgrade them to campagno scirroco or fulcrum 7 clinchers?
Lastly tyres what do people use nowadays ? puncture proof and grip are my priorities not weight.
Shimano R540 pedals are going cheap and a good place to start or Shimano 105 pedals if you want to push the boat out a bit more. I've used both I've mentioned and never had any problems apart from toppling over at the beginning when I first used SPD-SL pedals.
GT Grand Prix 4 seasons are good tyres, I use them in the winter and never punctured, not as heavy as Gatorskins or as light GT4000S.
most pedals have adjustable tension so you can set them loose for easy release. lots of peopel like speedplay for easy release and they are double sided, the cleat is on your shoe, so easier to engage from traffic lights etc
wheel upgrades really make sense if you are spending a bit more than that, although they roll well, fulcrum 7s are good wheels but fairly heavy, can you push the budget a bit.
i have been lucky with the puncture pixies for years, i run michelin pro3 and havent had a puncture in about 2000 miles, most people default to continental gp4000s, again i used them for a few years without an issue. it does seem to be that running the right psi and keeping an eye out for potholes and road debris is as good as thicker, more commuter orientated tyres like continental 4 seasons.
Edited by anonymous-user on Wednesday 28th May 15:44
pablo said:
egor110 said:
Just took my road bike out of the garage after not touching it in the last 6 years.
It's a oreba sport has 105 gears/brakes but has no pedals on?
Which are the most neewb friendly? shimano pd or spd look ones or speedplay?
Next up is wheels i might upgrade them to campagno scirroco or fulcrum 7 clinchers?
Lastly tyres what do people use nowadays ? puncture proof and grip are my priorities not weight.
most pedals have adjustable tension so you can set them loose for easy release. lots of peopel like speedplay for easy release and they are double sided so easier to engage from traffic lights etcIt's a oreba sport has 105 gears/brakes but has no pedals on?
Which are the most neewb friendly? shimano pd or spd look ones or speedplay?
Next up is wheels i might upgrade them to campagno scirroco or fulcrum 7 clinchers?
Lastly tyres what do people use nowadays ? puncture proof and grip are my priorities not weight.
wheel upgrades really make sense if you are spending a bit more than that, although they roll well, fulcrum 7s are good wheels but fairly heavy, can you push the budget a bit.
i have been lucky with the puncture fairies for years, i run michelin pro3 and havent had a puncture in something like 2000 miles, most peopel default to continental gp4000s, again i used them for a few years without an issue. it does seem to be that running the right psi and keeping an eye out for potholes and road debris is as good as thicker, more sommuter orientated tyres.
[/quote
I'd like to keep wheel budget under £200 because i don't actually need them really just fancy a new pair.
This puts me in the range of fulcrum racing 5 1645g or fulcrum quattro/campagno scirocco both 1725g
Edited by egor110 on Wednesday 28th May 15:54
If the bike has been laid up for 6 years then I suggest you buy some 540 pedals and keep the wheels as they are until you decide whether you want to take cycling to the next level or not. It might turn out that you don't get bitten by the cycling bug after spending all that money on upgrades for them to lie in the garage for another 6 years
pablo said:
Go for the 5s, the weight reduction compared to 7s is worthwhile. my 7s were nearly 2kgs...
Seconded. Pleased with my 5s. Add some Planet X red Ti skewers to match the 5's red nipples (£20 -100g) and some Planet X RageK tyres (folding, kevlar band, dual compound, £10 each!) should be all in for your £200 budget.Just trying the tyres right now, the ride quality and grip are much better than Gators. Weight and (hopefully) puncture protection are similar.
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