How easy is it to adjust the peddles?
Discussion
Classichims said:
The position of the pedals can easily be moved forward or back.
Get down and dirty in the footwell, undo the nut that locks them and just turn the pedals on their thread until the desired position then nip up the locking nut. Enjoy.
That's brilliant, sounds fairly straight forward.Get down and dirty in the footwell, undo the nut that locks them and just turn the pedals on their thread until the desired position then nip up the locking nut. Enjoy.
Just another quick one. I've sat in a fair few chims all with slightly different amounts of room, I need to remove the spacing washers (I gather some have up to 4/5) again is it fairly easy to un bolt the seat to do this?
Usually yes it's not so difficult, keep the cut washers to fit back on.
My seat runners had an extra box section added to the front, I removed them and feel much happier in the seat, if you do remove you'll have to re drill the two holes at the rear as they will no longer line up.
If it's just washers then no worries.
The seats are rather heavy and you may well find very rusty runners but I just rubbed them down, re painted and applied new grease. Very satisfying to move the seat forward and back. Lol
My seat runners had an extra box section added to the front, I removed them and feel much happier in the seat, if you do remove you'll have to re drill the two holes at the rear as they will no longer line up.
If it's just washers then no worries.
The seats are rather heavy and you may well find very rusty runners but I just rubbed them down, re painted and applied new grease. Very satisfying to move the seat forward and back. Lol
Yes, it's 4 nuts/washers underneath, 13mm or half inch socket. The front two are in recesses, back two easier.
So jack up the car, using the corners of the outriggers as a jacking point.
Suggestion. Pick up the car on a nice sunny day, take roof panel off, put roof panel in boot. Left side goes in first, underside facing the petrol tank, being very careful where you are waving the right hand side, as the paint on the rear wing chips really easily.
Take a coat and hat with you for comfort.
My 6 ft 7 inch friend Mat can drive my car with the roof on, only needs it off for track days (helmet clearance).
So jack up the car, using the corners of the outriggers as a jacking point.
Suggestion. Pick up the car on a nice sunny day, take roof panel off, put roof panel in boot. Left side goes in first, underside facing the petrol tank, being very careful where you are waving the right hand side, as the paint on the rear wing chips really easily.
Take a coat and hat with you for comfort.
My 6 ft 7 inch friend Mat can drive my car with the roof on, only needs it off for track days (helmet clearance).
Tip 1. It's easier to get the seat out with the roof panel out.
Tip 2. You can drive the car with the rear targa hoop up if you like. Better rear view, less wind noise.
Tip 3. If you do, don't put maps and papers on the rear parcel shelf. At best they will end up in the passenger footwell.
Tip 2. You can drive the car with the rear targa hoop up if you like. Better rear view, less wind noise.
Tip 3. If you do, don't put maps and papers on the rear parcel shelf. At best they will end up in the passenger footwell.
QBee said:
Yes, it's 4 nuts/washers underneath, 13mm or half inch socket. The front two are in recesses, back two easier.
So jack up the car, using the corners of the outriggers as a jacking point.
Suggestion. Pick up the car on a nice sunny day, take roof panel off, put roof panel in boot. Left side goes in first, underside facing the petrol tank, being very careful where you are waving the right hand side, as the paint on the rear wing chips really easily.
Take a coat and hat with you for comfort.
My 6 ft 7 inch friend Mat can drive my car with the roof on, only needs it off for track days (helmet clearance).
I did think that but it could be a 250 mile drive! I've found that my knees are much tighter when the washers have not been removed. I'm assuming its that washers that makes so much difference anyway! So jack up the car, using the corners of the outriggers as a jacking point.
Suggestion. Pick up the car on a nice sunny day, take roof panel off, put roof panel in boot. Left side goes in first, underside facing the petrol tank, being very careful where you are waving the right hand side, as the paint on the rear wing chips really easily.
Take a coat and hat with you for comfort.
My 6 ft 7 inch friend Mat can drive my car with the roof on, only needs it off for track days (helmet clearance).
The steering wheel has three settings and if it's on the bottom one your legs will rub against it, someone may have also added some washers to the steering column fixings to lower the wheel. It's easy to check when doing the pedals, there's two. 13 mm bolts that clamp column to lower dash, mine had two 1.5 mm washers( standard I think)
I actually added some more washers to lower it a little so when it's in the Middle position it's exactly as I'd like it.
The front seat used to be to high and I had little room to hold a coffee, removing the box section has solved that and my keg being pressured as I use the clutch. It's much better for me, have a play,,,,,,, always allow twice the time you think to do these little jobs then when it's done quicker you feel Gooooood.
I actually added some more washers to lower it a little so when it's in the Middle position it's exactly as I'd like it.
The front seat used to be to high and I had little room to hold a coffee, removing the box section has solved that and my keg being pressured as I use the clutch. It's much better for me, have a play,,,,,,, always allow twice the time you think to do these little jobs then when it's done quicker you feel Gooooood.
Classichims said:
The steering wheel has three settings and if it's on the bottom one your legs will rub against it, someone may have also added some washers to the steering column fixings to lower the wheel. It's easy to check when doing the pedals, there's two. 13 mm bolts that clamp column to lower dash, mine had two 1.5 mm washers( standard I think)
I actually added some more washers to lower it a little so when it's in the Middle position it's exactly as I'd like it.
The front seat used to be to high and I had little room to hold a coffee, removing the box section has solved that and my keg being pressured as I use the clutch. It's much better for me, have a play,,,,,,, always allow twice the time you think to do these little jobs then when it's done quicker you feel Gooooood.
Thats the issue i have with my left leg using the clutch. What is this box section? I actually added some more washers to lower it a little so when it's in the Middle position it's exactly as I'd like it.
The front seat used to be to high and I had little room to hold a coffee, removing the box section has solved that and my keg being pressured as I use the clutch. It's much better for me, have a play,,,,,,, always allow twice the time you think to do these little jobs then when it's done quicker you feel Gooooood.
Ok these are my drivers seat runners, the box section is at the front. It's rather rusty as you can see!
I removed them but this will mean the runners have to sit more forward so the rear holes in your floor will need re drilling about 30mm further forward. Offer the seat up and drop the front bolts through the original holes and just mark the position of the rears. I pushed the seat into the foam padding on the floor and made an imprint.
You will have to remove the carpet anyway, there glued down but mine came away easily.
Hope that makes sense.
The pedal position is adjustable!!!!?????
Why did no one mention this? I've been struggling and getting my pants in a knot trying to find a comfortable driving position for over 2 years
Now I find out that all of this time the pedals are b
d adjustable!! Grrr!!
Every day is a school day
At least it sounds like an easy thing to do 
Why did no one mention this? I've been struggling and getting my pants in a knot trying to find a comfortable driving position for over 2 years
Now I find out that all of this time the pedals are bd adjustable!! Grrr!!Every day is a school day
At least it sounds like an easy thing to do Edited by NickM450 on Thursday 29th May 21:51
fog66 said:
I just replaced mine with the leven ones, however the standard rubber clutch and brake just need winding in or out after you loosen the locking nut. The accelerator can't be done on the standard arm though.
Can vouch for the leven pedals also. Very good and look nice. Easily adjustable.Not told the wife that they adjust." shame you can't reach the pedals isn't it!"
Matt99man said:
would you say you could adjust these lower that the original ones?
I wouldn't say that, no. You're restricted by the arm not being able to be set any further back as both pedals just screw into the arm they will only go in until they reach the arm. It could be debatable wether the leven go in a few mm more or less than the originals, it would be extremely marginal though.Matt99man said:
would you say you could adjust these lower that the original ones?
Leven used to make pedals with longer reach for those of us who are underheight for our weight. Don't know whether they are still in production?The seat comes out easily - its a 3/10 DIY difficulty jobbie and I didn't need to lift the car at all. The bolts are pretty obvious with a bit of feeling around - note there are a couple of bigger bolts holding the shell to the chassis.
Rich
If you take the seat out I would suggest you add some large flat steel plates under the car to reinforce the flimsy fibreglass that the seat is bolted into. Most us who use our cars for sprints or track use have additional steel plates welded to the chassis rails to bolt the seat runners to. Imagine having a big accident and the seat mounting bolts tearing out of the fibreglass floor!
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