Discussion
right, just about to get the chim serviced and have my baffled sump fitted. thought whilst I was at it I might aswell have all the fluids replaced so wondered if I had the right stuff in mind.
car 430 with rover lt77 gear box used on road and track
engine oil penrite 15w60?
gearbox Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75W-90?
and whats best for the diff?
car 430 with rover lt77 gear box used on road and track
engine oil penrite 15w60?
gearbox Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75W-90?
and whats best for the diff?
Standard sump is just a bolt-on bucket. Nothing to stop the oil from all moving to one end or side.
Baffled sump is a bolt on bucket with metal walls going along and across the inside, to stop the oil all sloshing to one side on cornering or to one end on hard braking or accelerating. Sometimes has trap doors too. Look on Mulfab's website for pictures.
Baffled sump stops the oil pickup sucking up air on hard (particularly track) driving, which could result in engine damage.
Baffled sump is a bolt on bucket with metal walls going along and across the inside, to stop the oil all sloshing to one side on cornering or to one end on hard braking or accelerating. Sometimes has trap doors too. Look on Mulfab's website for pictures.
Baffled sump stops the oil pickup sucking up air on hard (particularly track) driving, which could result in engine damage.
The only thing I'd add to Qbee's comments are it's pretty unlikely to get oil starvation even with spirited road driving.
You'd need to be doing emergency stop braking then throwing it at a corner at great G's to starve the oil pickup.
It's for these hardcore types who drive very very fast around circuits.
Most track day cars don't have them and still survive so it's a fail safe sort of thing.
You'd need to be doing emergency stop braking then throwing it at a corner at great G's to starve the oil pickup.
It's for these hardcore types who drive very very fast around circuits.
Most track day cars don't have them and still survive so it's a fail safe sort of thing.
Rib and I both do sprint days, which are like track days without the straights. Car gets hotter than on track days. I do track days too. The danger is the tight corners at the end of fast sections, and the long long bends.
So at Snetterton, for example, you come round Coram's, a 180 degree even radius right hander, at 80 mph, right on the edge of grip on sticky track tyres, and then at the last second you slam on the 324mm brakes with 4-pot calliers that you fitted, and throw the car into the 90 degree tight left hander to finish the lap. You can imagine what the oil s doing if you don't have a baffled sump.
I never noticed any problems with oil pressure, but frankly I wasn't looking at the gauges while getting the car around that lot! And if you are on it on track, your water temperature is around 90 degrees the whole time.
I use Shell Helix Racing 10w60 to give the engine a fighting chance, Royal Purple Synchro Max in the gear box, and have an enlarged sump that takes 9.5 litres of oil. The Shell is available on Fleabay for £107 for 20 litres, big yellow drum, delivered.
So at Snetterton, for example, you come round Coram's, a 180 degree even radius right hander, at 80 mph, right on the edge of grip on sticky track tyres, and then at the last second you slam on the 324mm brakes with 4-pot calliers that you fitted, and throw the car into the 90 degree tight left hander to finish the lap. You can imagine what the oil s doing if you don't have a baffled sump.
I never noticed any problems with oil pressure, but frankly I wasn't looking at the gauges while getting the car around that lot! And if you are on it on track, your water temperature is around 90 degrees the whole time.
I use Shell Helix Racing 10w60 to give the engine a fighting chance, Royal Purple Synchro Max in the gear box, and have an enlarged sump that takes 9.5 litres of oil. The Shell is available on Fleabay for £107 for 20 litres, big yellow drum, delivered.
QBee said:
spend said:
I'd have thought before going to the trouble of installing a baffled sump that you would at least be using a full ester oil?
Sorry, not a term I recognise - please enlighten me. 
Synthetics... refined / cracked bits of naturally occuring hydrocarbons .... supplemented with a few esters ie a blend (not really quite what you think it is)
Esters... synthetic lubes made by engineers from acids & stuff to fulfil precise requirements.
Synthetics can be bit of a witches brew (think piss pot), whereas full esters are made by chemists so designed to be pure & exact rather than a batch of stuff mixed up until it gets to about the right consistency.
I do struggle to understand the difference between semi synth & PAO full synth, just don't see the significant difference and what most folk believe is in a full synthetic (ie man made from scratch) is only 100% ester.
Essentially the Ester oils are the ones that will really stand up to all the heat & thrashing you can give them with added niceties like polar (magnetic) molecules that will stick to things.... All the (however/whatever) small amount of crap grade blended into other synths is what will break down as soon as you give it some stress ~ so like mineral IMHO just you'll have half oil & half water in your sump when its thrashed...
Most of the 400 & driving miss daisy cruisers are never going to see any of this stress, so when they give advice ... ignore it - they'd probably be just as happy using sunflower oil
toon tvr said:
Posts crossed over, I wasn't referring to you 
.. but you illustrated my point perfectly in that many assume full synth means it really is fully 'manufactured', and what I was trying to get across was the subtle difference in 'man-made / synthetic' as made by stirring up samples verses actually chemically made constituents mixed together.
I can leave it to each to do their own research and absorb as much/little technical information as they want, in the hope that I have a rung a little bell in their perceptions
I based my choice on chats with a number of technical departments at oil companies, and went with their consensus view. Oil still lovely and clean after a couple of thousand miles, but I am not an industrial chemist and have not had it analysed, unlike some of the American Ferrari owners, who send their oil off to be analysed. As I didn't spend over $500,000 on my RV8 I just go by the oil pressure gauge.
But I would use a standard Mobil 1 or whatever if I wasn't doing track events.
Thanks for your detailed answer Dave. I will do some reading. At least I no longer worry about zinc content, just keep the oil topped up.
But I would use a standard Mobil 1 or whatever if I wasn't doing track events.
Thanks for your detailed answer Dave. I will do some reading. At least I no longer worry about zinc content, just keep the oil topped up.
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