Which sub/GMT and how far off am I price wise?
Discussion
I've been saving up for a new watch, I've got up to £2300 saved and want to PX my old Omega at the same time which is a circa 2001 seamaster pro 300m chrono (the blue faced one with the 3 dials) its boxed with papers but will want a service as its not been done for a few years.
How much do you reckon the seamaster is worth on trade in and therefore how far off a sub am I?
Next question is which model, I like all the submariners including Tudors which I can actually just about afford without the PX,but I would prefer a Rolex unless I found a pair of his and hers snowflake sub's I could get in to for about the same price.
I'm not after the latest model by any means, I'd prefer either a birth year watch (1981) or a classic, I realise my budget is limited as I'm expecting to be looking at watches circa 4-4500. While I plan to never sell it one nice thing about a sub is it will hold its value, how important is box and papers? Would it be a big mistake to buy a rarer model without box and papers over a more common new model with box and papers?
Also how does a GMT wear? Does it wear the same? In fact is it the same case and strap because I like the look of them and don't really differentiate much between them looks wise.
Many thanks
How much do you reckon the seamaster is worth on trade in and therefore how far off a sub am I?
Next question is which model, I like all the submariners including Tudors which I can actually just about afford without the PX,but I would prefer a Rolex unless I found a pair of his and hers snowflake sub's I could get in to for about the same price.
I'm not after the latest model by any means, I'd prefer either a birth year watch (1981) or a classic, I realise my budget is limited as I'm expecting to be looking at watches circa 4-4500. While I plan to never sell it one nice thing about a sub is it will hold its value, how important is box and papers? Would it be a big mistake to buy a rarer model without box and papers over a more common new model with box and papers?
Also how does a GMT wear? Does it wear the same? In fact is it the same case and strap because I like the look of them and don't really differentiate much between them looks wise.
Many thanks
You need to get yourself somewhere like the Watchfinder boutique where they have them all on display and you can try them all on. It's the only way you'll know.
The GMT wears differently to the Sub, much thinner profile, much more elegant. Also try on a Yacht-Master, I was blown away by mine, it's really lovely to wear and 4k will get you a very nice one.
B&P importance is dependent on the watch; age, condition, service papers, originality of parts are all huge factors here. On a modern Rolex, B&P are critcial I'd say if you're new to it, on the older ones, people rarely used to keep them safe. They are worth money, anywhere from 500-1000+ on rarer models.
1981 birth year would get you a nice 5513 at that money, that's a great wearable classic watch. If you want a date (and COSC certification) then it's a late 1680 (plexi-glass) or the transitional 16800 with is maxi-dialled but has sapphire crystal - the best of both world for a daily wearer perhaps.
1981 is also around the transitional period from the 1675 to 16750 GMT; better movement and quickset date. Seriously, we could be here all day and I have work to do!!
Find what you like and then ask the question again!
The GMT wears differently to the Sub, much thinner profile, much more elegant. Also try on a Yacht-Master, I was blown away by mine, it's really lovely to wear and 4k will get you a very nice one.
B&P importance is dependent on the watch; age, condition, service papers, originality of parts are all huge factors here. On a modern Rolex, B&P are critcial I'd say if you're new to it, on the older ones, people rarely used to keep them safe. They are worth money, anywhere from 500-1000+ on rarer models.
1981 birth year would get you a nice 5513 at that money, that's a great wearable classic watch. If you want a date (and COSC certification) then it's a late 1680 (plexi-glass) or the transitional 16800 with is maxi-dialled but has sapphire crystal - the best of both world for a daily wearer perhaps.
1981 is also around the transitional period from the 1675 to 16750 GMT; better movement and quickset date. Seriously, we could be here all day and I have work to do!!
Find what you like and then ask the question again!
Thankyou that actually answers more than you realise, if the GMT wears slimmer then it's out, I love wafer thin watches and own some nice slim dress watches, but here I want a slightly chunky dive watch that's a bit dressy, the sub will fit better the GMT was just a side thought.
I actually like plexi crystals, I built up from components a sub homage and one of the must have bits was a high dome crystal, I realise I'm not going to afford a sub with a tropic crystal, but I do like plexi crystals.
I'm actually looking at a 5513, is the non date function looked down on? I must admit I'll have to convince myself I can live without it as I use the date function a lot, but I do like the clean look of without date, what are the bracelets like at that age, are they folded or solid links? If folded do they feel good quality? It will probably spend most of it's time on a nato but I do want a nice bracelet too.
I actually like plexi crystals, I built up from components a sub homage and one of the must have bits was a high dome crystal, I realise I'm not going to afford a sub with a tropic crystal, but I do like plexi crystals.
I'm actually looking at a 5513, is the non date function looked down on? I must admit I'll have to convince myself I can live without it as I use the date function a lot, but I do like the clean look of without date, what are the bracelets like at that age, are they folded or solid links? If folded do they feel good quality? It will probably spend most of it's time on a nato but I do want a nice bracelet too.
Fas1975 said:
Listen to yeti, you really should try them on. I had talked myself into a GMT BLNR, wore won in store over the weekend and was genuinely underwhelmed. I tried on a GMT Master ii and it was stunning, so genuinely worth trying one on as pics / articles / videos are just no substitute
Do you mean a 16710 GMT Master 2?
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