suspension query

[jesfirth]

Gents, A couple of you know me and Perry suggested I put a post on here. I sprint a Griff 500 and currently have 1 way Nitrons which have been fine, but I have added aero, front spoiler, rear splitter, boot spoiler mostly flat floor etc and need much stiffer spring rates etc. The one way shocks are not up to it so i need a set of 3 way Ohlins or similar to which i can fit stiffer springs and play with properly. Has anyone replaced their shocks recently who wants to move on their old ones? yours hopefully Jes

[Graham]

jesfirth said:

Gents, A couple of you know me and Perry suggested I put a post on here. I sprint a Griff 500 and currently have 1 way Nitrons which have been fine, but I have added aero, front spoiler, rear splitter, boot spoiler mostly flat floor etc and need much stiffer spring rates etc. The one way shocks are not up to it so i need a set of 3 way Ohlins or similar to which i can fit stiffer springs and play with properly. Has anyone replaced their shocks recently who wants to move on their old ones? yours hopefully Jes

might be worth talking to nitron they may be able to upgrade your dampers to 2 / 3 way

[Guillotine]

You're a better man than me if you can set up 3 ways properly Jes, mine ran ok on the same shocks as you have now...ntrs.
Nitron do a good set of 3 ways if you must, with remote res, so give them a call first. You'll need £12k for Ohlins.
spring rates? If your aeros working you'll be at 1200f/1000 rear to start.
andy
btw, ill have yours off you 😊

[Graham]

Yeah in what way are the dampers you have not up to it? to properly tune a set of 3 ways you need a lot of track time and tyres..

[jesfirth]

Hi Graham, I'm a numpty so it was my orignal assumption that 1 way dampers have to be revalved if you change the spring rates significantly. After your post i called Nitron and they said the 1 ways would work with a higher spring rate but they were concerned that without independent compression and rebound control that i would lose mechanical grip. That may be theoretical rather than real life though. I am on a steep learning curve with bugger all budget so if i can just swap the springs on the existing shocks to something 1100/800 F/R and it works i will be delighted to have a viable and cheap solution.

[Graham]

certainly worth a try, as a set of spring is cheap.

I'd have though 2 ways ( compression and rebound) would be all most people would ever need, 3 ways just split the compression between high and low speed.

1 ways are always a bit of a compromise as you change compression and rebound together, but good enough for basic tweeking.

the trouble with having lots of adjustment is you need lots of time and detailed notes to get the best out of them, its very easy to get it very wrong with too much to play with.

I have penske 3 ways on the tuscan and very rarely adjust much, a click of compression or rebound here and there is m having a issue but nothing else


compression is sometimes called bump, and rebound sometimes bleed just to confuse things further..

[jesfirth]

graham, i think you are right. i have 3 way shocks and forks plus sag on my downhill mountain bike and i had to get someone far cleverer than me to set it up as almost factory settings but based on my weight and i have never changed it - its far too complex. maybe i will just bung on a set of springs and see what it feels like.

[Graham]

jesfirth said:

graham, i think you are right. i have 3 way shocks and forks plus sag on my downhill mountain bike and i had to get someone far cleverer than me to set it up as almost factory settings but based on my weight and i have never changed it - its far too complex. maybe i will just bung on a set of springs and see what it feels like.

sounds like a plan, I'd also have a play around with the settings on the existing dampers and try and note down the differences.


i'e make some big changes say full soft, then full hard, then mid point, and see if you can feel the difference in whats happening.

not enough compression and the nose will dive down, not enough rebound and as soon as your off the brakes the thing will pop back up. etc etc feel the differences under, braking, cornering and over bumps and under acceleration. note down what the car is doing then what you think needs changing on the dampers..
when you know what needs changing thats the point to get the fancy dampers.. :-)

experimenting with big changes will amplify the differences. when you have a bit of experience then its down to one or 2 clicks at a time.

I had an issue with the car skiping over the bumps at oulton, a tiny bit of rebound/bleed on the back made all the difference

[Guillotine]

Hi Jes

have a look here for set up advisas in our emails, stay with ntr...
http://www.tvrmonster.com/Nitron%20Damper%20Guide....

[Guillotine]

Hi Jes

have a look here for set up advisas in our emails, stay with ntr...
http://www.tvrmonster.com/Nitron%20Damper%20Guide....