1600M diff problems
1600M diff problems
Author
Discussion

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
when i drive my 1600M i get clonks from thee diff area which is not very nice.
There is a lot of backlash in the driveshafts.
I Wonder if someone can tell me what diff was used on 1600M's. Is it Triumph.
Is it posssible to shim or is it better to get another diff?

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

180 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
It is probably a Triumph unit, and no, you don't need to get a new one, as they can be rebuild....

However, there is more then one reason for 'clonks'

Bushes of the diff mounts, diff mounts themselves (they can break)

Another one, which is the most 'pleasant' possibility, are the U-joints (replacing is fun, fun, fun !)

Lastly obviously is the condition of seals and crown-wheel of the diff, which can be refurbed

In any case further investigation is required..........

Frank

prideaux

4,974 posts

170 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
Another thought have you greased up all the grease points they do need doing on a regular basis every 2 to 3 thousand miles i do notice a difference on my car when i do them it just all feels tighter and smoother
A

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
thanks for the tips.
I think i first need to put the car on a lift, grease every nipple in sight (could be interresting) and check if all the bolts are tight. I can feel some play in the wheelbearings also.

Cerberus90

1,553 posts

234 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
Sounds just like our 1600M when we got it.
Taking the Mountain at Cadwell at full tilt didn't do it much good either.


So far we've changed UJs about 3 times, got a second pair of driveshafts (which had better engagement on the splines), a second hand recon diff, new propshaft UJs twice, balanced the propshaft twice. biggrin


No clonk anymore, but we do now have a whine from the diff and a bit of a vibration/drone at speed biggrin.


It is a triumph diff, a spitfire one and as mentioned above, pretty easy to work with.

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
could someone say if the Triumph diff is a Spitfire , herald, Vitesse and what ratio if i look for a new diff or in good condition. Do you think it's possible from Rimmer Bros or Canley!!

kermit1300

35 posts

185 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
Think it's a gt6 or spitfire diff and a ratio of 3.89-1. I

kermit1300

35 posts

185 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
Think it's a gt6 or spitfire diff and a ratio of 3.89-1. I

Cerberus90

1,553 posts

234 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
plasticpig72 said:
could someone say if the Triumph diff is a Spitfire , herald, Vitesse and what ratio if i look for a new diff or in good condition. Do you think it's possible from Rimmer Bros or Canley!!
Taadaaa, biggrin

Rimmer Bros 3.89 Diff



We've got a 3.63 one in ours, just gives it a bit more legs with the tuned engine.

griff 200

509 posts

214 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
I'm afraid I just scraped the old diff and fitted a ford Sierra unit not to hard to fit made some adapters for the drive shafts and it's never wined again???

Cerberus90

1,553 posts

234 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
griff 200 said:
I'm afraid I just scraped the old diff and fitted a ford Sierra unit not to hard to fit made some adapters for the drive shafts and it's never wined again???
It was hard enough convincing my "assistant biggrin" to fit electronic ignition to ours, so I'd have no chance with a different diff.

We have got a Tr6 one though which we might put in.

Hansoplast

570 posts

181 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
plasticpig72 said:
could someone say if the Triumph diff is a Spitfire , herald, Vitesse and what ratio if i look for a new diff or in good condition. Do you think it's possible from Rimmer Bros or Canley!!
With the numbers on the casing of the diff you can find the ratio on internet.
When buying new U-joints better choose the best (GNK) with grease nipples. Some do not have them (chinees stuff).
Getting the cup with needles out just tap light with a wooden hammer on it will holding it in your hand and he will come out slowly. THIS IS NOT A JOKE.
It will take some time but no force. Some people press it out but that can lead to a breaking.
When it does not go out just het it slowly.
When pressing the new cup with needles in, just fill the cup with grease so the needle will not fall out.

Good luck.

Hans

timelord

318 posts

304 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
If you go down the recon diff route its worth topping the diff with oil and standing it on the prop flange for a while to thoroughly soak the bearings as these only get oil flung up when the diff is turning, and don't forget new nyloc nuts all round! Geoff

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Thursday 5th June 2014
quotequote all
hi griff 200,
i like the idea of the Sierra diff, maybe it is stronger too. Also easy to find a good one for a good price

Hansoplast

570 posts

181 months

Friday 6th June 2014
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
Can I repeat what I always say when these diffs are mentioned...the internal HD carrier version is a must for the TVR...IMHO getting an exchange unit MIGHT 'lose' the HD carrier version (that said, IF it has not already been lost) that should be in the car!!
Adrian@
Hi Adrian,
For me as an novice, what do you mean by HD carrier version?
Google translate does not help me.
And how can I indentify this type?
I have 2 on the floor and one must go in.

Thanx for the expertise.
Hans.

Moto

1,281 posts

274 months

Friday 6th June 2014
quotequote all
Have I got it all wrong ??? I always presumed that 3.89 was the number of wheel revolutions for each turn of the prop shaft. Therefore surely a 3.63 figure would make the engine revs higher at the same speed, not give it longer legs.

Joho

148 posts

187 months

Friday 6th June 2014
quotequote all
Yes it is the GT6 diff with 1:3.89
I changed mine two years ago and the "new" one
is now noisy again.

@griff200
I also would be intersted in the Sierra solution.
Does it have the same ratio?
Do you have photos?

Joho

148 posts

187 months

Friday 6th June 2014
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
As I said in my previous post ..is this a FR or FH prefixed unit that is in it now?
Adrian@
It's the later version (from Chassis Nr. 3381)
So FH

Fiscracer

585 posts

231 months

Friday 6th June 2014
quotequote all
timelord said:
If you go down the recon diff route its worth topping the diff with oil and standing it on the prop flange for a while to thoroughly soak the bearings as these only get oil flung up when the diff is turning, and don't forget new nyloc nuts all round! Geoff
The last thing you want is nyloc nuts. If the diff oil gets hot what happens to the nylon?


Cerberus90

1,553 posts

234 months

Friday 6th June 2014
quotequote all
Moto said:
Have I got it all wrong ??? I always presumed that 3.89 was the number of wheel revolutions for each turn of the prop shaft. Therefore surely a 3.63 figure would make the engine revs higher at the same speed, not give it longer legs.
I always get confused with gear ratios, I think of it as the closer to 1:1 you get, the higher top speed you'll get.

When you think on the gearbox, 4th is the 1:1, and 5th is a <1:1, so smaller the first number, higher top speed.