A lot about cam
Discussion
Sorry to open a new thread, but I am battling with the idea of choosing a streetable cam for my new build. I had mentioned XER273HR in another thread, but could I do better? I mean, here is what I have established so far:
- I will buy a new LS3 crate (OE)
- I will never fit a blower or a turbo
- I will stay NA
- current mods will remain: decat, catback, ORSOM Otrcai
- powerflow headers will be added and remap updated
Now, the car drives in traffic more than less. I just want to make sure I get a cam that will not make it a pig to live with. I don't need / want it revving higher than the stock 6600rpm.
I will want uprated head springs for obvious reasons.
What is a standard length of pushrods in the OE engine? The XER273HR needs 7.400" from what I gather. Is there any benefit in me getting uprated lifters and rocker arms?
As for my power goals 550bhp would be nice, but really I will be happy with anything over 500bhp.
I guess I am happy with the above mentioned cam, but need to know how to establish the right size pushrods and why do manufacturers do not mention that with every cam?
- I will buy a new LS3 crate (OE)
- I will never fit a blower or a turbo
- I will stay NA
- current mods will remain: decat, catback, ORSOM Otrcai
- powerflow headers will be added and remap updated
Now, the car drives in traffic more than less. I just want to make sure I get a cam that will not make it a pig to live with. I don't need / want it revving higher than the stock 6600rpm.
I will want uprated head springs for obvious reasons.
What is a standard length of pushrods in the OE engine? The XER273HR needs 7.400" from what I gather. Is there any benefit in me getting uprated lifters and rocker arms?
As for my power goals 550bhp would be nice, but really I will be happy with anything over 500bhp.
I guess I am happy with the above mentioned cam, but need to know how to establish the right size pushrods and why do manufacturers do not mention that with every cam?
stigmundfreud said:
don't forget to not fit LPG
Why? How is it related to fitting a cam?Kmud, I am buying a sealed crate engine, so not even taking heads off.
If comp cams sell a kit consisting of cam, pushrods and other bits, would it be mean that pushrods would be specific to a cam in an otherwise internally NOT modified engine?
I can't get my head around it, although I have read a lot by now...
All I want to do is buy a brand new engine, brand new cam and pushrods if really required.
Does anyone know the standard pushrod length?
And if you buy a cam from MF or WP, do they replace pushrods as well? Or when you buy supply only, do they tell you to change pushrods and give you the right length?
Ok that spec is almost the exact thing Im looking at doing soon.
Cam only. Nice daily driver.
OEM pushrods tip to tip in theory are 7.4 but because of the ball end blokes recon 7.385 or so..
Anyway, get a set of chrome moly 7.4's and you should be ok. At least to get started. You might want 7.425 but wont know unless you measure up.
If its a new crate then the lifters should be fine. Also the rockers.
My shopping list was/is going to be
Comp LXL cam 222/230-114+2 lift is just over 0.600 lobes are very soft on close
Comp pushrods 7.4 x 5/16's
Comp new conical valve springs and retainers much better valvetrain control than beehives or duals.
Proper intake and tune I recon manual easy 420rwhp
If you want more cam look at the 226/234-114+2 or so, same lobes.
But if you want to just lift stock power upwards, keep with the smaller duration imo. Smaller cam should pass emissions too as its -2* overlap
For a tad more low end get it ground with 4* advance instead of 2*
You will note the cam you mentioned isnt too different from the above. 2* more duration. But the above cam has higher lift so it should be more torquey than the XER and even though higher lift the valve management of the later LXL lobes is better.
My 2p
But basically aim for a cam around that spec. Thats what most guys get.
Cam only. Nice daily driver.
OEM pushrods tip to tip in theory are 7.4 but because of the ball end blokes recon 7.385 or so..
Anyway, get a set of chrome moly 7.4's and you should be ok. At least to get started. You might want 7.425 but wont know unless you measure up.
If its a new crate then the lifters should be fine. Also the rockers.
My shopping list was/is going to be
Comp LXL cam 222/230-114+2 lift is just over 0.600 lobes are very soft on close
Comp pushrods 7.4 x 5/16's
Comp new conical valve springs and retainers much better valvetrain control than beehives or duals.
Proper intake and tune I recon manual easy 420rwhp
If you want more cam look at the 226/234-114+2 or so, same lobes.
But if you want to just lift stock power upwards, keep with the smaller duration imo. Smaller cam should pass emissions too as its -2* overlap
For a tad more low end get it ground with 4* advance instead of 2*
You will note the cam you mentioned isnt too different from the above. 2* more duration. But the above cam has higher lift so it should be more torquey than the XER and even though higher lift the valve management of the later LXL lobes is better.
My 2p
But basically aim for a cam around that spec. Thats what most guys get.
Edited by ringram on Sunday 8th June 14:15
This looks ok, lift is a bit girly.
222/228-113+4
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chevrolet-LS1-LS2-LUNATI...
222/228-113+4
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chevrolet-LS1-LS2-LUNATI...
In my experience duals are overkill if you get a good single spring, so it is obviously engine dependent, although we managed to stick with singles on the ute with big lift and over 8K rpm. The new conicals have received some good reports from a few guys I know. Certainly my next valve springs will be those. Ti retainers are always nice as well.
KMud said:
I remain sceptical on this, any reading material?
Nope 
http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/1406_comp_ca...
ringram said:
Well if the manufacturer of the most popular cams for LS engines on the planet doesn't know what they are talking about we are all screwed.
Im going to try them out. Only one way to know.
Not till Jan/Feb though.
Ah, back-to-back testing with conventional and conical springs, very noble of you Im going to try them out. Only one way to know.
Not till Jan/Feb though.
Know what you mean though, will consider them in 20k miles or w/e.
I ran a good LS3 set up in the Ute; Crane 224/232/114+4. .585 lift. I used Comp 918 beehives and yella,terra ultralites. (Not using them now as the new stroker is installed). No problems at all and good power. I had to use a longer push rod 7.425" as opposed to stock 7.4". You don't need fancy rockers for your setup. You should get 400rwhp+ no problem with a good tune up.
MyM8V8 said:
I ran a good LS3 set up in the Ute; Crane 224/232/114+4. .585 lift. I used Comp 918 beehives and yella,terra ultralites. (Not using them now as the new stroker is installed). No problems at all and good power. I had to use a longer push rod 7.425" as opposed to stock 7.4". You don't need fancy rockers for your setup. You should get 400rwhp+ no problem with a good tune up.
Interesting - we never rated Crane cams at all despite trying a few grinds over the years - we could never get them to go well on either the dyno or the blacktop. We also binned using the ultralites as I recall. We moved away from COMP beehives to a different manufacturer that gave better durability, because at the time there was some question on durability, but again this was like 8 years ago. So it's interesting to see what others have used successfully though!!!Gassing Station | HSV & Monaro | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff