Discussion
Hi Guys,
What are the thoughts on doing the piston rings with the engine in-situ, or will it be much easier to get the engine out?
I'll also be rebuilding the oil pump as pressure is a bit lower than it should be, is there anything else that I should be doing whilst there? Cam, lifters, and timing chain are all new.
Cheers,
Chris
What are the thoughts on doing the piston rings with the engine in-situ, or will it be much easier to get the engine out?
I'll also be rebuilding the oil pump as pressure is a bit lower than it should be, is there anything else that I should be doing whilst there? Cam, lifters, and timing chain are all new.
Cheers,
Chris
Oil pump cover can be skimmed if scored.
I have had the heads off in situ, you can also drop the sump I understand and then undo the big ends, which will allow the pistons to come out. While you are there the bearing shells may as well be checked and replaced if necessary but it's a job I haven't done (yet!)
I have had the heads off in situ, you can also drop the sump I understand and then undo the big ends, which will allow the pistons to come out. While you are there the bearing shells may as well be checked and replaced if necessary but it's a job I haven't done (yet!)
Piston rings and main bearing shells are something you rarely replace unless worn or damaged, in which case you usually end up needing a rebore and/ or a crank regrind, neither of which can be done in-situ.
If you have no step at the top of the bores then you could replace the piston rings but you should really hone the bores (to remove glaze and present a new bearing surface to the new rings), which in itself may lead to fine abrasive dust floating around in your oilways.
If the crank shells are worn badly enough to need replacing you;ll often find marks on the crank journals that tend to need a regrind to polish out - otherwise you risk that damage inflicting damage on the new shells.
If you drop the big-end caps and pop the pistons out, be aware that the shock of the rings clearing the bores can be enough to snap them.
If you have no step at the top of the bores then you could replace the piston rings but you should really hone the bores (to remove glaze and present a new bearing surface to the new rings), which in itself may lead to fine abrasive dust floating around in your oilways.
If the crank shells are worn badly enough to need replacing you;ll often find marks on the crank journals that tend to need a regrind to polish out - otherwise you risk that damage inflicting damage on the new shells.
If you drop the big-end caps and pop the pistons out, be aware that the shock of the rings clearing the bores can be enough to snap them.
The amount you got to strip anyway, taking the lump out is not going to take much longer, and will make things a lot easier, and your end up saving time having it out, plus as said you can do get the block honed and flushed while it's out.
you can re-surface the oil pump face, on a flat plate and lots of wet and try and elbow grease, or get it milled flat again, but they are awkward as there no flat surfaces to hold it by. last one I did in the mill I had to 1st mill some flat edges using the main surface as a reference.
you can re-surface the oil pump face, on a flat plate and lots of wet and try and elbow grease, or get it milled flat again, but they are awkward as there no flat surfaces to hold it by. last one I did in the mill I had to 1st mill some flat edges using the main surface as a reference.
Sounds like it's going to be fun then!
Taking the engine out does then start to niggle at other ideas in my head, for example I've got a lovely refurbished 4 litre block and heads lying around not doing much at the moment...
Unfortunately not much will be happening soon as I need to finish off a land rover project before rolling the wedge in.
Cheers,
Chris
Taking the engine out does then start to niggle at other ideas in my head, for example I've got a lovely refurbished 4 litre block and heads lying around not doing much at the moment...
Unfortunately not much will be happening soon as I need to finish off a land rover project before rolling the wedge in.
Cheers,
Chris
Lower oil pressure can be due to a long time in use oil relieve valve spring. I changed mine for a new standard one and pressure became like new. If not better, the gears are not expensive and as mentioned before the housing can be refurbished.
And not too thin oil helps as well: 20W50 and mineral will do if you change it with 3000 miles or once per year intervals.
Rob
And not too thin oil helps as well: 20W50 and mineral will do if you change it with 3000 miles or once per year intervals.
Rob
adam quantrill said:
Good point about the relief spring - anyone running an older engine may find the spring is getting tired - I might do mine.
While you're at it you may as well change the plunger for the 'tadpole' type, reduces the risk of the plunger getting stuck and losing your oil pressure.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff