M5Board 300,000 mile E39 M5

[Stevie750iL]

Worth a read.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-dis...

[Depthhoar]

That 300k mile example is astonishing.

There's another posting on M5board about a BMW tech who bought a 250k mile E39 M5 at auction and restored it. The engine was sound but all the ancillaries needed work/replacement. Anything made with rubber (inc. suspension components), or carried fluids, needed replacement/refurbishment but the basic architecture of the engine/gearbox/drivetrain had stood up well. They're robust vehicles but demand proper and intensive maintenance (££££s) if they're to perform and endure. Here's the link:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-dis...

[Stevie750iL]

I am finding exactly that with my relatively "low" mileage (97K)E39 M5. I've just been systematically replacing all perishables. It aint cheap!!But if it gets me to 300k, then I'll be happy. But I'm sure tin worm will have taken it's toll by then, especially as a daily driver in the UK???

Edited by Stevie750iL on Saturday 14th June 08:08

[B19TOY]

Sounds like I may have sold my 2001 e39 M5 too soon at 126k/ 5 years old. Now more than half way to 300k in the replacement, a 2006 e63 M6. My original M6 goal was 200k but let's see what challenges to reliability the next 7 years might bring to hit 300k.

[Hereward]

Stevie750iL said:

I am finding exactly that with my relatively "low" mileage (97K)E39 M5. I've just been systematically replacing all perishables. It aint cheap!!But if it gets me to 300k, then I'll be happy. But I'm sure tin worm will have taken it's toll by then, especially as a daily driver in the UK???

Edited by Stevie750iL on Saturday 14th June 08:08

I'd appreciate your thoughts on what parts to focus on from your experience.

I've just bought an 80,000 mile 2001 M5 with largely unknown history, that I intend to keep for many years. It's having an Inspection 2 next week, plus new brake fluid, differential oil and coolant.

I've told the garage to go bumper-to-bumper and compile a to-do list. I'm assuming suspension should be prioritised?

[Depthhoar]

Hereward said:

I'd appreciate your thoughts on what parts to focus on from your experience.

I've just bought an 80,000 mile 2001 M5 with largely unknown history, that I intend to keep for many years. It's having an Inspection 2 next week, plus new brake fluid, differential oil and coolant.

I've told the garage to go bumper-to-bumper and compile a to-do list. I'm assuming suspension should be prioritised?

I bought a MY2001 E39 M5 last year with 77k on the clock with fully documented service history & all the receipts and immaculate body work. It's had the following work done since I purchased it:

Clutch kit inc DMF, rear main seal, crankshaft sensor, guibo (flex disk), propshaft centre bearing, differential oil change, (diff seals checked & were OK), all external seals on the gearbox, gearbox mounts, gear change mechanism rebuild with all new parts, gearbox oil change using BMW MTF2 gearbox oil (important to use the right stuff), coolant flush inc. draining coolant from the engine block not just from the rad, 2 new MAFs (Bosch), timing chain tensioner, brake fluid change, engine oil & filter change, oil separator pipes. New FSR ('hedgehog').

Next week it's going in for:
New rear calipers, BMW OE rear rotors & pads, new handbrake pads & fitting kit, one front caliper rebuild, new engine mounts, both pre-cat O2 sensors.
New rear ball joints & integral links, rear anti-roll bar drop links.
All arms/wishbones/drop links on front axle to be replaced. New anti-roll bar bushes.
Centre & outer tie rods + idler arm bush. Proper 4 wheel alignment.

That's a lot.

Most of the above are known weaknesses, or at least things that need attention at higher mileage on the E39 M5. If you buy one of these cars it's probably because you're looking for a rewarding driver experience and if that's the case then you need to maintain the performance 'edge' by replacing/overhauling performance-critical components. Most of them will not be 'worn out' in the traditional sense, but worn enough to degrade performance and increase NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). Some stuff I've changed in order to secure overall longevity, mainly filters, fluids and seals. I've also got an E39 530d but don't change out stuff on that until it shows signs of proper wear; it's not at all a performance car and doesn't demand the same sort of intensive fettling.

As your M5 has an uncertain history I'd be inclined to change all the fluids (which it looks like is going to happen anyway) and have a good long look at the brakes, including the calipers. How's the VANOS and timing chain? Those two would be a concern for me with a non-historied car, however there is a lot of probably quite unnecessary paranoia about these on many BMW forums.

Next, I'd inspect the rear ball joints and change them if in any doubt. (They can wear subtly and affect the alignment settings on the rear axle - mine hadn't 'failed' on the 530d but were bad enough that the garage couldn't adjust the alignment to within spec.) The ball joints on the 530d were replaced at 65k and 138k miles and its the same component (same part number) as on the M5. I'd also start changing out suspension arms on the front axle. There's one critical one with a bush (which can itself be changed) that wears first but I'd replace the whole arm as there's a ball joint on the other end that'll probably be shot as well. This arm (bush) is often the root cause of the dreaded 'shimmy' many have experienced. Further down the road you might want to keep any eye on the tie rods....but there's a multiplicity of other things too. A proper alignment will be essential after any suspension work but it needs to be done by people who have the right kit (Hunter out of choice) but who also know how to use it.

How much you spend and how much maintenance you do depends on how you drive it & your attitude to the way you keep your car. There's a whole spectrum of owners out there some of whom will scoff at the sort of maintenance regime I've adopted...and others who will be nodding sagely.

Mine's utterly stock, a 'keeper' and is about as tight & focussed a drive as it's possible to be.

Edited by Depthhoar on Sunday 15th June 21:22

[Hereward]

That's excellent information, many thanks. I look forward to developing that level of knowledge. You seem to have the same attention to detail as I have.

I've allocated an initial £5k to refresh the car, sounds like you have spent more!

PS. My Vanos has minimal chatter, even on a cold start. What's the consensus on the timing chain? I guess I should look to replace that sooner rather than later? Thanks again.

Edited by Hereward on Monday 16th June 20:14

[Depthhoar]

If the timing chain is a concern the first thing I'd do would be to replace the chain tensioner. It's a £100 part (inc crush washers) & 20 minute DIY if you've got a socket set and a torque wrench (lots of DIY advice on M5board and YouTube).

Beyond that I'd get someone like Phil Crouch at CPC (Amersham) to assess your chain, maybe just a quick look/see and aural assessment rather than an invasive one. He can also test the performance of your VANOS at relatively low cost. CPC has quite a following among MPower enthusiasts and is the only guy who I will let near my VANOS (when the time comes....) and I live a long way away!