Mk1 Boxsters- are they really that unreliable?
Discussion
Been fancying an old Boxster for a while now. Budget around the £6.5K mark.
Was always under the impression that if you avoid the 2.5 model, things will be OK.
So Ive been browsing away for 2.7s or Ss, but have read afew comments on here which give me cause for concern.
Will a sensible miles, service history 2.7 or S break catastrophically like a 996 911?
Would a Z3 3.0 or S2000 allow me to sleep easier?
Id prefer the Boxster, for the badge, the mid-enginedness, and the driving experience, but Im a bit wary now.
Was always under the impression that if you avoid the 2.5 model, things will be OK.
So Ive been browsing away for 2.7s or Ss, but have read afew comments on here which give me cause for concern.
Will a sensible miles, service history 2.7 or S break catastrophically like a 996 911?
Would a Z3 3.0 or S2000 allow me to sleep easier?
Id prefer the Boxster, for the badge, the mid-enginedness, and the driving experience, but Im a bit wary now.
DSG gearboxes are horrendously unreliable... unless you get one that's not. The one in my 140,000 mile A3 worked like it had just rolled out of the factory.
If you believe the internet, every car, ever, will explode in a big ball of fire the minute you get it off the forecourt. I genuinely can't remember the last time I saw a car broken down (if we forget the Peugeot I saw yesterday, but that was the first one for months). I certainly can't recall ever seeing a Boxster stranded by the side of the road.
Buy one that seems to be in good nick with a full service history. Make sure it's had all the relevant bits and pieces (cam belts or suspension recalls or whatever usually goes wrong with them) and give it a good going over and a thorough test drive. If it's alright and not a silly price, then buy it. If you turn up and Wayne wants to flog you his 25,000 mile car for £1500 with a service history written on the back of a fag packet, oh and can you please meet him at a local petrol station instead of his house and you'll have to pay in cash because he hasn't got a bank account, then walk away.
Like all mechanical things, those that are generally well made in the first place (it's a Porsche, not a Kia, even a bad one will be pretty good) and have been looked after will still be fit for purpose now. Those which were either badly made originally or well made but neglected will be borked. Choose wisely and you'll be just fine, I'm sure.
Simon.
If you believe the internet, every car, ever, will explode in a big ball of fire the minute you get it off the forecourt. I genuinely can't remember the last time I saw a car broken down (if we forget the Peugeot I saw yesterday, but that was the first one for months). I certainly can't recall ever seeing a Boxster stranded by the side of the road.
Buy one that seems to be in good nick with a full service history. Make sure it's had all the relevant bits and pieces (cam belts or suspension recalls or whatever usually goes wrong with them) and give it a good going over and a thorough test drive. If it's alright and not a silly price, then buy it. If you turn up and Wayne wants to flog you his 25,000 mile car for £1500 with a service history written on the back of a fag packet, oh and can you please meet him at a local petrol station instead of his house and you'll have to pay in cash because he hasn't got a bank account, then walk away.
Like all mechanical things, those that are generally well made in the first place (it's a Porsche, not a Kia, even a bad one will be pretty good) and have been looked after will still be fit for purpose now. Those which were either badly made originally or well made but neglected will be borked. Choose wisely and you'll be just fine, I'm sure.
Simon.
Trouble with reading forums is people love a good story of woe on them and mostly bulls
t about a problem that has been experienced on maybe 1 or 2% of the car's production run, People also grossly exaggerate unreliability on the net - Example, My boot catch failed on my car yesterday, Spring has snapped in it and I either need to replace the spring or the whole catch, means my remote boot release won't work and in order to keep the boot closed I need to lock it with the key - Now, to many they see this as unreliability, to me the car is 15 years old and it is wear and tear and a minor inconvenience that I need to get sorted. The car hasn't essentially left me stranded at the side of the road, likewise, the abs module played up a year or so ago, car still worked, albeit with some erratic gear changes from the auto box and the speedometer stopped working - again, unreliable after 110,000 miles and 15 years? I think not...
By the way, I appreciate the irony of me criticising online forums and posting this on one!
t about a problem that has been experienced on maybe 1 or 2% of the car's production run, People also grossly exaggerate unreliability on the net - Example, My boot catch failed on my car yesterday, Spring has snapped in it and I either need to replace the spring or the whole catch, means my remote boot release won't work and in order to keep the boot closed I need to lock it with the key - Now, to many they see this as unreliability, to me the car is 15 years old and it is wear and tear and a minor inconvenience that I need to get sorted. The car hasn't essentially left me stranded at the side of the road, likewise, the abs module played up a year or so ago, car still worked, albeit with some erratic gear changes from the auto box and the speedometer stopped working - again, unreliable after 110,000 miles and 15 years? I think not...By the way, I appreciate the irony of me criticising online forums and posting this on one!
My better half has been running a 2000 2.7 Boxster for about 3 years now, no real big major issues, a few things that are to be expected on a 14 year old car but nothing nasty, the running costs are all in my profile, it's due another service any day which with a few bits of additional maintainance I expect to be about £500
Buy a good straight car and it should be ok but don't forget these were £40k cars so have £40k car running costs.
Buy a good straight car and it should be ok but don't forget these were £40k cars so have £40k car running costs.
Imagine it like this, the Internet forums are like sitting in the AE departments of your local hospital, everyone that comes in has some problem or tail of woe, some obviously very serious but some not so much. You would never find a healthy person reporting in to reception to say they feel fine 
I'd say the boxster does have its major flaws, very well documented but and it's a big un, buy one that's been well maintained and I'm sure it'll be a car that serves you well and puts a big smile on your face. I've been tempted a few times but just feel they're looking a little dated now but that's another discussion.
I'd say the boxster does have its major flaws, very well documented but and it's a big un, buy one that's been well maintained and I'm sure it'll be a car that serves you well and puts a big smile on your face. I've been tempted a few times but just feel they're looking a little dated now but that's another discussion.
They're certainly no worse than average for the era, reliability wise, probably better. The problem is that the one common failure that gets so much publicity is rather expensive to fix.
You could buy one and get the IMS upgraded. I believe there are more reliable parts available.
You could buy one and get the IMS upgraded. I believe there are more reliable parts available.
Edited by kambites on Saturday 14th June 08:31
The biggest worry on these cars is the intermediate shaft bearing (ims) failing. If this happens your engine will be toast. There are 2 diffent types of ims bearing fitted to the 986 boxster. Early cars (2.5's and some very early 2.7's) had a dual row bearing. All other cars had a single row bearing. The failure rate in the single row bearing is said to be around 8% and the dual row failure rate is less than 1%.
The other main engine worry is the rms leaking but this isn't really a big issue, causes an oil drip and is easily fixed during a clutch change for a few pennies.
Other than the engine, radiators and air con condensers are prone to failure due to their position and lack of protection from debris, water pumps can be fragile, suspension bushes only last about 10 years or so and the coolant tank can crack.
The early cars have a plastic rear window that can crack if used in cold weather. This was replaced with a glass window in the later facelift cars. Facelift cars also have clear headlights (compare with an early one to see the difference) and a glovebox.
I have a 99 2.5 and when I bought it had to replace suspension bushes (well suspension arms really) and radiators. It is been great for the last 18 months.
The other main engine worry is the rms leaking but this isn't really a big issue, causes an oil drip and is easily fixed during a clutch change for a few pennies.
Other than the engine, radiators and air con condensers are prone to failure due to their position and lack of protection from debris, water pumps can be fragile, suspension bushes only last about 10 years or so and the coolant tank can crack.
The early cars have a plastic rear window that can crack if used in cold weather. This was replaced with a glass window in the later facelift cars. Facelift cars also have clear headlights (compare with an early one to see the difference) and a glovebox.
I have a 99 2.5 and when I bought it had to replace suspension bushes (well suspension arms really) and radiators. It is been great for the last 18 months.
I went to spain and back in mine last summer, about 300 miles in the dreaded engine management light came on, then the paranoia sets in, can I hear a noise? Is it running at full power? Then 10 days and about 1200 miles later of glorious roof down motoring and listening to the flat 6 soundtrack it had a new oxygen sensor and all was right with the world.
Having posted this I will probably suffer an engine failure now.
Having posted this I will probably suffer an engine failure now.
ajh38 said:
I went to spain and back in mine last summer, about 300 miles in the dreaded engine management light came on, then the paranoia sets in, can I hear a noise? Is it running at full power? Then 10 days and about 1200 miles later of glorious roof down motoring and listening to the flat 6 soundtrack it had a new oxygen sensor and all was right with the world.
Having posted this I will probably suffer an engine failure now.
A couple of years ago, I had a 2001 'S' and I was paranoid as hell at first when I read all the horror stories.Having posted this I will probably suffer an engine failure now.
It had been neglected mechanically by its previous owner (MAF sensor and various lambda sensors were shot, and suspension geo was way out, check when this was last done OP!).
Once this was all sorted by an indy specialist, it drove beautifully. It did develop a rattle on start up once, and I was terrified that it may the IMS 'death rattle' I had read so much about. Once I'd crawled under the rear, and had a look for anything obvious, it turned out to be a lambda sensor on one of the back cats had worked loose. Easy repair, and many more happy, hard driven miles.
On manuals, check for heavy clutches. If it is heavy or stiff, it's usually due to be changed. That will be £600 at an Indy.
Edited by Baz Tench on Saturday 14th June 11:17
I'm on my second Boxster. Bought new in October 2002. 37K miles now. It has a vibration when idling it didn't used to have. I'll have to get that sorted.
Otherwise, since they changed the exhaust out under warranty when it was six months old, nothing, and I mean NOTHING, has gone wrong that wasn't my fault. I killed a battery in it once by leaving it off trickle charge for a month one year.
Mine IS a toy. I don't commute in it except on sunny days. But it's going well for a twelve year old car. Still looks the business and goes quickly.
Otherwise, since they changed the exhaust out under warranty when it was six months old, nothing, and I mean NOTHING, has gone wrong that wasn't my fault. I killed a battery in it once by leaving it off trickle charge for a month one year.
Mine IS a toy. I don't commute in it except on sunny days. But it's going well for a twelve year old car. Still looks the business and goes quickly.
Find one that has been well looked after and has pref had the rear main seal done and you should be fine.
I would hold out for the 3.2 personally.
How about this one?
Porsche Boxster 3.2 S 2dr
40945 miles
Convertible Red Porsche 2001 Boxster S 3.2 , Immaculate Condition, Black Leather Interior, Black Hood, Petrol, ABS, 17" Alloy Wheels, Body colour bumpers, Climate Control, Bluetooth, Electric convertible roof, Trip Computer, Wind deflector, Genuine Low mileage 40,945 miles, Full Service History, Electrically adjustable driver and passenger seats, 4 Months Road Tax and MOT, First to see will buy,, RED, Electric windows, MP3 player, CD player, Leather trim, Height adjustable driver's seat, Height adjustable passenger seat, Sports seats, Alloy wheels, Spare wheel (Space-saver), Power steering, Steering wheel rake adjustment, Central locking, Alarm, Immobiliser, Driver's airbags, Passenger airbags. £6,995
I would hold out for the 3.2 personally.
How about this one?
Porsche Boxster 3.2 S 2dr
40945 miles
Convertible Red Porsche 2001 Boxster S 3.2 , Immaculate Condition, Black Leather Interior, Black Hood, Petrol, ABS, 17" Alloy Wheels, Body colour bumpers, Climate Control, Bluetooth, Electric convertible roof, Trip Computer, Wind deflector, Genuine Low mileage 40,945 miles, Full Service History, Electrically adjustable driver and passenger seats, 4 Months Road Tax and MOT, First to see will buy,, RED, Electric windows, MP3 player, CD player, Leather trim, Height adjustable driver's seat, Height adjustable passenger seat, Sports seats, Alloy wheels, Spare wheel (Space-saver), Power steering, Steering wheel rake adjustment, Central locking, Alarm, Immobiliser, Driver's airbags, Passenger airbags. £6,995
Seven grand is so little for a beautiful car like that.
Downside to the pre-facelift 986S is the placcy rear window. Upside of that car is 17" wheels - the tyres are significantly less expensive than the 18s which were optional. Otherwise it is very well specified.
It will still have 40K car running costs, of course, but what a bargain! Servicing needn't be that pricey if you go with a good independent like Northway etc
Downside to the pre-facelift 986S is the placcy rear window. Upside of that car is 17" wheels - the tyres are significantly less expensive than the 18s which were optional. Otherwise it is very well specified.
It will still have 40K car running costs, of course, but what a bargain! Servicing needn't be that pricey if you go with a good independent like Northway etc
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