Proflow headers
Discussion
Hi,
Just fitted a set of pro flow headers from aus.
Just thought i would write a quick review on them for anyone who's thinking of buying them.
The quality and fit of them is good. Passenger side took about 20 mins to physically bolt in, drivers side took about 3 hours.
Only slight problem i have found is, the drivers side is quite close to the chassis rail but not failing it at all. The pipes are very close to the clutch line, had to bend it slightly so it wasn't touching. The drivers side brace doesn't fit back in (probably could get it back in with abit of a trim and a wack with a hammer.) The biggest problem i can see is the driver side knock sensor (think its that) wiring is far to close for my liking. I may re-wire it out the way.
Once i made up the adapter to fit the original exhaust, it all fitted in and looked quite good.
Once started the car is slightly louder and deeper at tick over, but when you give it some it sounds like a proper V8 (i think all V8's should sound like a nascar!) I did start it with open headers when fitting, glad it didn't sound like that once all the exhaust was fitted, it was deafening!
I have a few bits to sort out, i think i have a slight leak on one of the joins and i think the back box baffles have had it but apart from that i feel it was £600 well spent!
James
Just fitted a set of pro flow headers from aus.
Just thought i would write a quick review on them for anyone who's thinking of buying them.
The quality and fit of them is good. Passenger side took about 20 mins to physically bolt in, drivers side took about 3 hours.
Only slight problem i have found is, the drivers side is quite close to the chassis rail but not failing it at all. The pipes are very close to the clutch line, had to bend it slightly so it wasn't touching. The drivers side brace doesn't fit back in (probably could get it back in with abit of a trim and a wack with a hammer.) The biggest problem i can see is the driver side knock sensor (think its that) wiring is far to close for my liking. I may re-wire it out the way.
Once i made up the adapter to fit the original exhaust, it all fitted in and looked quite good.
Once started the car is slightly louder and deeper at tick over, but when you give it some it sounds like a proper V8 (i think all V8's should sound like a nascar!) I did start it with open headers when fitting, glad it didn't sound like that once all the exhaust was fitted, it was deafening!
I have a few bits to sort out, i think i have a slight leak on one of the joins and i think the back box baffles have had it but apart from that i feel it was £600 well spent!
James
Edited by j666eds on Saturday 14th June 21:50
Edited by j666eds on Tuesday 24th June 23:24
Why the angry face for a good write up?
Don't forget you are fitting long tubes. And the also HUGE.
The drivers side is tight but that's because there is not a lot of room. Mine knocked due to a repair but it's sorted now.
Clutch pipe is close but as you say it bends out easily enough.
The heat shield will not fit but you could make one up.
Did not see an issue with the knock sensor on mine. But you could cover the cable in a heat wrap. I have Kevlar lees covers that rest on the exhaust and my leads a fine still
I think a bit of fettling or slight relocation is a given on fitting something twice the size of the original.
Don't forget you are fitting long tubes. And the also HUGE.
The drivers side is tight but that's because there is not a lot of room. Mine knocked due to a repair but it's sorted now.
Clutch pipe is close but as you say it bends out easily enough.
The heat shield will not fit but you could make one up.
Did not see an issue with the knock sensor on mine. But you could cover the cable in a heat wrap. I have Kevlar lees covers that rest on the exhaust and my leads a fine still
I think a bit of fettling or slight relocation is a given on fitting something twice the size of the original.
Behold81 said:
Why the angry face for a good write up?
Don't forget you are fitting long tubes. And the also HUGE.
The drivers side is tight but that's because there is not a lot of room. Mine knocked due to a repair but it's sorted now.
Clutch pipe is close but as you say it bends out easily enough.
The heat shield will not fit but you could make one up.
Did not see an issue with the knock sensor on mine. But you could cover the cable in a heat wrap. I have Kevlar lees covers that rest on the exhaust and my leads a fine still
I think a bit of fettling or slight relocation is a given on fitting something twice the size of the original.
i clicked the wrong one, i have changed it but it hasn't updated! Don't forget you are fitting long tubes. And the also HUGE.
The drivers side is tight but that's because there is not a lot of room. Mine knocked due to a repair but it's sorted now.
Clutch pipe is close but as you say it bends out easily enough.
The heat shield will not fit but you could make one up.
Did not see an issue with the knock sensor on mine. But you could cover the cable in a heat wrap. I have Kevlar lees covers that rest on the exhaust and my leads a fine still
I think a bit of fettling or slight relocation is a given on fitting something twice the size of the original.
Do you have cats in yours?
bumpNSF dead easy but best done from underneath. OSF due to the steering abit of a pain. To be done from the bottom. Remember to remove HT leads and oil dipstick tube. Then disconnect steering shaft from the rack. Ideally done on the ramp, but I am doing it on a driveway. Needs put on axle stands. Haven't finished yet, so can't vouch for quality of fit. One thing for sure, headers alone are longer than OE manifolds + cats so the centre exhaust section will need cutting too.
L2VXR said:
Can you give a bit more detail on the fitting as I'll be tackling this job when I get back from holiday
ie:
Did you do it on a ramp
Did they go in from the top or from underneath
Did you have to drop the steering rack
What else did you have to remove
anything else I need to know :-)
Sorry i thought i replied buy obviously didn't!ie:
Did you do it on a ramp
Did they go in from the top or from underneath
Did you have to drop the steering rack
What else did you have to remove
anything else I need to know :-)
I did it on the floor using some drive on ramps, but just before fitting you will need to jack the front up so the wheels aren't touching, to move the steering rack out the way.
Drivers side has to come in from underneath. Passenger side can come from bottom or top. I fitted from the top as i have no air box in the way.
Yes you have to drop the steering rack, you do not have to break any track rod ends though. You will have to disconnect the power steering lines, its the front 2 hoses/pipes not back 2. Obviously this will piss fluid everywhere so have something to catch it with.
Make sure you disconnected the battery as you are sliding large metal objects between the car body and the starter motor!
Remove the 2 galvanised corner braces, the drivers side won't fit back in without modifying it.
You have to remove the dipstick, it unbolts at the top and just pulls out the sump, mine was quite stiff.
Have fun removing the steering column joint off the steering rack, it does eventually rock off sideways.
Take your time re-fitting the power steering pipes as they are easy to cross thread and will now be in an awkward position once the manifold is fitted.
Check all wiring is well out the way, i had 2 cables resting on the drivers side manifold once fitted so these all had to be cable tied out the way.
The head flange bolts they supply have I'm going to shear off in a weeks time written all over them so i would buy some decent bolts/studs.
Remember to fill power steering back up and bleed (procedure can be found on google)
Think thats about it!
I am also fitting these headers to a VXR8, and although I posted what seemed an easy one, it is not...
The driver's side is the difficult one in the end... Once the header is fitted I can't seem to be able to route through the oil dipstick tube. At all! There is no way it would clear the long tubes and go into the dipstick hole at the correct angle...
Any ideas anyone?
The driver's side is the difficult one in the end... Once the header is fitted I can't seem to be able to route through the oil dipstick tube. At all! There is no way it would clear the long tubes and go into the dipstick hole at the correct angle...
Any ideas anyone?
djwilk said:
I am also fitting these headers to a VXR8, and although I posted what seemed an easy one, it is not...
The driver's side is the difficult one in the end... Once the header is fitted I can't seem to be able to route through the oil dipstick tube. At all! There is no way it would clear the long tubes and go into the dipstick hole at the correct angle...
Any ideas anyone?
Bend the dipstick tube a bit, so that it clears the headers. The driver's side is the difficult one in the end... Once the header is fitted I can't seem to be able to route through the oil dipstick tube. At all! There is no way it would clear the long tubes and go into the dipstick hole at the correct angle...
Any ideas anyone?
djwilk said:
Thanks ARAF,
Unfortunately it will not clear the headers without a proper bending which in turn (I fear) will snap the tube in half as it has got absolutely no give...
I managed to bend mine, just trying to get it out, so don't know why yours is so rigid. ! It doesn't have to locate in the bolt hole on the head - but must be bolted to something, or there's a good chance you'll blow it out at high revs. You should be able to put a gentle bend in it near the bottom, to make it come out between a couple of tubes. You could even rotate it, if that helps.Unfortunately it will not clear the headers without a proper bending which in turn (I fear) will snap the tube in half as it has got absolutely no give...
ARAF said:
I managed to bend mine, just trying to get it out, so don't know why yours is so rigid. ! It doesn't have to locate in the bolt hole on the head - but must be bolted to something, or there's a good chance you'll blow it out at high revs. You should be able to put a gentle bend in it near the bottom, to make it come out between a couple of tubes. You could even rotate it, if that helps.
ARAF, it is so tight in there that I am finding it impossible to rotate it as it catches against any piece of metal surrounding it, starter motor and engine mount included...I will try to take off the header, steering shaft and slide the dipstick first with the header giving some manoeuvrability once loose.
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