Body Off Update 1

[Jonesy07]

Thank you all for the invaluable advice received so far!

Progress:-
• Body lifted off and managed to disconnect almost everything but missed the two cables to the alternator, stretched them but didn’t break anything.
• Chassis has rust in the usual vulnerable places but overall not too bad – though have invested in a reconditioned chassis so that I can swap pieces over.
• Tank off, appears to be in reasonable condition, cradle not so good
• Exhaust manifolds off with just a single snapped bold but enough protruding to weld a nut onto
• Front end being dismantled at present.

Help:-
• Can anyone recommend a supplier for the rubber bit – tank straps/tank separating strips; thick bodywork/chassis pads, etc.
• Considering upgrading to 260mm front discs – are the results worth it?
• I’m fitting a new water pump should I also change the oil pump while the engines out – current pressure good.
• Looking for a clutch alignment tool/input-shaft to align new clutch.
• ARB drop links – can you get replacements?
Advice:-
• Borrowed a set of steel sierra wheels and when fitted and chocked was able to access rear wheel hub bolts and undo them relatively easily – with the use of a length of scaffolding pole.
Cheers all.

Nigel

[phillpot]

Jonesy07 said:

Help:-
• Can anyone recommend a supplier for the rubber bit – tank straps/tank separating strips; thick bodywork/chassis pads, etc.
• Considering upgrading to 260mm front discs – are the results worth it?
• I’m fitting a new water pump should I also change the oil pump while the engines out – current pressure good.
• Looking for a clutch alignment tool/input-shaft to align new clutch.
• ARB drop links – can you get replacements?

Rubber bits: Pheonix trim, woollies etc. or Ebay or there are usually at least two or three "trade stands" at any large classic or kit car show selling all manner of stuff like that.

260mm discs: Guess it depends on how you intend to use the car, I personally have no doubts that the standard discs are quite adequate for a occaisional Sunday morning blast around a few A and B roads but if you're buying new stuff anyway why not "go large"!

Oil pump: I'd leave well alone, where do you stop... oil pump, bearings, piston rings etc. etc.? Maybe lift the heads and do a "de-coke" and valve lap?

Clutch tool: Do it by eye or improvise with a bit of wooden dowel and some tape (make one if you have the luxury of access to a lathe)

Drop links: Don't know if original are still available ( try David Gerald or ML Performance?), search past threads for info on making your own with "Rose joints".

Good luck

[AndrewS2]

Definitely is all the green ones being restored at the moment!! Very interested in your rear hub bolts method…any pictures? What tool did you use? I think I'm right in thinking this is the enormous threatening looking copper coloured nuts I've seen but don't have a large enough spanner for… What size are they and what is the best tool?

Glad your chassis doesn't seem too bad. Where have you got the replacement from?

Andrew

[shaun s3c]

Hi Nigel I can make you a set of adjustable rose jointed ones

[shaun s3c]

[my250gt]

shaun s3c said:

Hi Nigel I can make you a set of adjustable rose jointed ones

They look tidy, do they fit chimeara ? Pm me a price thanks, Phil.

[phillpot]

AndrewS2 said:

Where have you got the replacement from?

David Gerald ?

[phillpot]

AndrewS2 said:

… What size are they and what is the best tool?

41mm socket


and one of these....

Edited by phillpot on Thursday 19th June 12:08

[Barkychoc]

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=1...

[phillpot]

Barkychoc said:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=1...

I/2" drive, you'll need a top quality bar, 3/4" a safer bet (imho)

[Jonesy07]

Hi Shaun -just PM'd you re links.
Nigel

[Jonesy07]

Good evening all

New Year, new progress update – currently very slow.

Work so far:
Everything stripped off old chassis and powder coated [slight misunderstanding over trailing arm colour].
Rear drivetrain and suspension assembled on new chassis, new bushes and bearings
Refurbished tank and new tank cradle fitted
UJ and drive shaft CV appear good so just cleaned and re-greased.
Engine out, gearbox off and new clutch, oil seals and selector saddle fitted, refurbished slave cylinder.
Engine and gearbox reinstalled – new mounts engine and gearbox
New bushes fitted to front wishbones and new bearings fitted to hubs.

Advice needed
1. I can’t get anywhere near the specified torque settings for the front and hub nuts without the bearings binding-up solid?
2. Do I need to remove all powder coating before fitting the hub top and bottom ball joints? I did this for the bush carried/trailing arm joints at the rear but just wondering if necessary at the front.

Cheers

Nigel

[Jonesy07]

[magpies]

looking very good

[DamianS3]

shaun s3c said:

Hi Sean

I really like your work those swirl pots are top class.

Back on subject are those drop links all Stainless?

Back on thread I think the 260mm upgrade would be just right. The originals were too weak for me and a 278mm really needs rear disks to balance it out Otherwise it could be too much with no ABS IMHO. I have Escort cosworth front and rear BTW.

Thanks

Damian S3

[phillpot]

Jonesy07 said:

1. I can’t get anywhere near the specified torque settings for the front and hub nuts without the bearings binding-up solid?

I can only imagine the outer races are not "fully home" in the bearing carriers?

[Top Gear TVR]

phillpot said:

Jonesy07 said:

1. I can’t get anywhere near the specified torque settings for the front and hub nuts without the bearings binding-up solid?

I can only imagine the outer races are not "fully home" in the bearing carriers?

Yep - that or wrong bearings?