The plot thickens...can somebody take a very quick look pls
Discussion
I have spent all morning removing the induction and then replacing the spark plugs. The car had reached the point where it wouldn't start so I had to replace the plugs.
The old spark plugs are all very black and sooty so the car was obviously running way too rich (as I thought).
Replacing the spark plugs wan't easy (it has taken me 6 hours!) but I started the car back up hoping to get some more diagnostics so I could determine which lambda was down (or both).
The car started up right away and idles fine. I plugged in the diagnostics and the lambdas now have readings??? All I have done is reset the adaptives and put in a new set of spark plugs. The car still does smell rich but could somebody take a look at these readings - the lambdas which previously stayed at 0v are now jumping around changing to real voltages 0.4-1.2v and the adaptives are down to 0.4% from 23.9% previously.
I could put it all back together and take it for a drive but if there are still faults it would be much easier to replace components now while it is still apart.
Can anyone see any reason from the diags above why the car was running so rich and why would ne sparkplugs and resetting the adaptives make the lambdas start working?
The old spark plugs are all very black and sooty so the car was obviously running way too rich (as I thought).
Replacing the spark plugs wan't easy (it has taken me 6 hours!) but I started the car back up hoping to get some more diagnostics so I could determine which lambda was down (or both).
The car started up right away and idles fine. I plugged in the diagnostics and the lambdas now have readings??? All I have done is reset the adaptives and put in a new set of spark plugs. The car still does smell rich but could somebody take a look at these readings - the lambdas which previously stayed at 0v are now jumping around changing to real voltages 0.4-1.2v and the adaptives are down to 0.4% from 23.9% previously.
I could put it all back together and take it for a drive but if there are still faults it would be much easier to replace components now while it is still apart.
Can anyone see any reason from the diags above why the car was running so rich and why would ne sparkplugs and resetting the adaptives make the lambdas start working?
Alexdaredevils said:
From what I can see it's still in warm up mode, which will run rich
You need to get it up to running temp and check again, looks ok to me
Yes, it was still warming up. I will put the induction back together so I can run it up to temp. I only let it run for a minute to capture this video:You need to get it up to running temp and check again, looks ok to me
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_QOZx3dbe4
The settings look OK to me but I'm no expert on the diags and there are no faults reported. I'm just confused how this could be though when previously it wouldn't even start or run and the lambdas read 0v constantly. All I have done is change the plugs and reset the adaptives. Very odd.
Tirus said:
Tim as i answered in your other thread on this I would seriously get it up to temp & make sure its not something silly like the temp sensor , it sounds just like mine when it was showing 34 when the temp gauge was registering 105 !
Yes, I need to get it up to temp. I have nearly got the induction back on. I had to stop at about 6 to take the family out for a meal. I will finish putting the induction back on tomorrow afternoon and take it for a run to get it up to temp. What's odd is why it ran so rich and the lambdas didn't show any voltage before but yet no faults loggers on the ECU.I have got to drive it 300 miles on Tuesday night...I've only driven 120 miles since it was put back on the road. I think I will speak to the AA to see how much cover I have.
6 hours for plugs ? what manifolds do you have? I have ACT ones and find them tight but the correct tools and method should not be more than 1 hours tops to change all 8 as well as air boxs on and off.
If the Lamdas were not moving that would cause it to run very rich and by the the looks of your plugs be a issue. I would monitor them now when warm to see if they keep moving, if they seem stable take it a drive and data log to make sure they are working though out the drive. take it from there, if both were dead it might suggest a wiring fault.
If the Lamdas were not moving that would cause it to run very rich and by the the looks of your plugs be a issue. I would monitor them now when warm to see if they keep moving, if they seem stable take it a drive and data log to make sure they are working though out the drive. take it from there, if both were dead it might suggest a wiring fault.
Equally - running very rich will cause your lambdas to not move. Hard to tell which is cause and which is effect.
If the lambdas suddenly started responding when they weren't before, I would say that the reason you were not getting a lambda reading before was because it was running rich rather than the other way round.
If the lambdas suddenly started responding when they weren't before, I would say that the reason you were not getting a lambda reading before was because it was running rich rather than the other way round.
Vee8ight said:
What plugs are you using, as they look different to mine?
I'm using the Iridium NGK plug in 7's (two stages colder for the NOS). Part num BKR7EIX. If you wanted the normal version the number would be BKR5EIX. I have to run cooler for the NOS else normal plugs could burn up.scotty_d said:
6 hours for plugs ? what manifolds do you have? I have ACT ones and find them tight but the correct tools and method should not be more than 1 hours tops to change all 8 as well as air boxs on and off.
If the Lamdas were not moving that would cause it to run very rich and by the the looks of your plugs be a issue. I would monitor them now when warm to see if they keep moving, if they seem stable take it a drive and data log to make sure they are working though out the drive. take it from there, if both were dead it might suggest a wiring fault.
I'm not sure which manifolds I have but I know access is very tight. The bolts that come out next to the sparkplug holes make things tricky too. You can't easily get the socket in as the bolt is just too close. I also had to piss around getting a socket that would fit. Mine was 22mm OD and the smallest I could find yesterday was 21mm OD which just fits down the spark plug hole.If the Lamdas were not moving that would cause it to run very rich and by the the looks of your plugs be a issue. I would monitor them now when warm to see if they keep moving, if they seem stable take it a drive and data log to make sure they are working though out the drive. take it from there, if both were dead it might suggest a wiring fault.
The biggest time killer is the induction though. As it is all carbon fibre there is no give and the NOS pipes make the order you have to remove them like some sort of puzzle. I have spent 10 hours now changing the plugs and I still have three pipes and one air box left to refit.
This is one of the reasons I hope the rough running is fixed. It's not the £90 for a new set of plugs it is the time to fit the buggers.
TimJM said:
Vee8ight said:
What plugs are you using, as they look different to mine?
I'm using the Iridium NGK plug in 7's (two stages colder for the NOS). Part num BKR7EIX. If you wanted the normal version the number would be BKR5EIX. I have to run cooler for the NOS else normal plugs could burn up.EDIT Just read about the faff to get them out, stick with the iridium! Lol
Edited by Vee8ight on Sunday 22 June 20:04
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