T350 Electrical Gremlins
Discussion
I’m struggling with electrical issues after re-building my car, I re-connected the dash, the dash ECU the relay splice unit and the battery and to my surprise most things seemed to work. Then I had to leave the car and go away for work for a few weeks………
Upon my return the car now has developed the following issues:
Indicators don’t flash when disarming the alarm
Door windows don’t drop when opening the doors (both sides)
Side lights don’t work (head lights do work, but the LED status lights on the light switch doesn't light up)
Indicators don’t work
Hazard lights don’t work
Dash is giving Clock Failed and FRAM failure when starting up,
Dash giving lights on alarm when the ignition is off.
Dash also gives door open alarms (both doors) strangely the door alarms cancel with a rise in engine revs but return at idle??
Other than the above everything else works, the doors lock, the windows go up and down, the alarm works, the car starts and runs, and all the heater/fan controls work.
Here are the things I've tried so far:
Battery is fully charged showing a healthy 12v and 13.5-14V when the engine is running.
Reset the windows by lowering and raising them
Swapped window control units over
Unplugged, inspected and re-connected every single control unit and multi-plug under the dash and in the foot wells.
Replaced Relay splice unit with a spare that I have
Replaced fuse board
Main earth removed and all contacts cleaned
The is kept in a dry warm garage and hasn't been driven in two years – so no moisture/corrosion issues.
Door micro switches, haven’t check these yet but as both doors are playing up and the car hasn't been used I can’t see both door switches failing at the same time.
I think all the problems are related somehow, Any suggestions?
Upon my return the car now has developed the following issues:
Indicators don’t flash when disarming the alarm
Door windows don’t drop when opening the doors (both sides)
Side lights don’t work (head lights do work, but the LED status lights on the light switch doesn't light up)
Indicators don’t work
Hazard lights don’t work
Dash is giving Clock Failed and FRAM failure when starting up,
Dash giving lights on alarm when the ignition is off.
Dash also gives door open alarms (both doors) strangely the door alarms cancel with a rise in engine revs but return at idle??
Other than the above everything else works, the doors lock, the windows go up and down, the alarm works, the car starts and runs, and all the heater/fan controls work.
Here are the things I've tried so far:
Battery is fully charged showing a healthy 12v and 13.5-14V when the engine is running.
Reset the windows by lowering and raising them
Swapped window control units over
Unplugged, inspected and re-connected every single control unit and multi-plug under the dash and in the foot wells.
Replaced Relay splice unit with a spare that I have
Replaced fuse board
Main earth removed and all contacts cleaned
The is kept in a dry warm garage and hasn't been driven in two years – so no moisture/corrosion issues.
Door micro switches, haven’t check these yet but as both doors are playing up and the car hasn't been used I can’t see both door switches failing at the same time.
I think all the problems are related somehow, Any suggestions?
There is a door control unit under the centre counsel have you tried that one, had problems with mine and changed everything you have and there was 2 breaks in wires from passenger door to rear hatch and that fixed it, does not mean that is your problem.
My dash read outs are all over the place saying water sensor is not working, water temp 130C if it was it would have blown up, oil sensor not working, fuel sensor not working and so on, it is either a dirty connection or the dash ECU needs re-calibrating so its off to get re-calibrated
Hope that helps
My dash read outs are all over the place saying water sensor is not working, water temp 130C if it was it would have blown up, oil sensor not working, fuel sensor not working and so on, it is either a dirty connection or the dash ECU needs re-calibrating so its off to get re-calibrated
Hope that helps
Have you checked the ribbon cables at the rear of the dash? Easily displaced?
The next thing I suggest is contact the Dash/Electronics expert:
Paul Smith, Phone +44(0)7985355014 or: info@pselectronicsolutions.co.uk
He will ascertain the linkage, electronically, of your faults; FRAM, lights etc?
Give him a call, comes high;y recommended for all TVR electronics and workings.
Trev
The next thing I suggest is contact the Dash/Electronics expert:
Paul Smith, Phone +44(0)7985355014 or: info@pselectronicsolutions.co.uk
He will ascertain the linkage, electronically, of your faults; FRAM, lights etc?
Give him a call, comes high;y recommended for all TVR electronics and workings.
Trev
I have checked the ribbon cables, I ended up removing the dash in and out a few times as I was checking other things behind.
What does the control box on the trans tunnel actually do? The one that's next to the relay splice unit?
I think A phone call to Paul is in order tomorrow.
Thanks.
What does the control box on the trans tunnel actually do? The one that's next to the relay splice unit?
I think A phone call to Paul is in order tomorrow.
Thanks.
Paul would also be my destination. This may not help but, my 'countdown' oil temp sensor that reads -4 deg on a 24 deg day works properly only if she's driven once a week rather than left on trickle charge. I've done most of the things you mention and cleaned the earthing points.
No idea why it would work but does for me.
No idea why it would work but does for me.
please change cr2032 battery in the dash-ecu.
usually no problem when ignition is *ON* and only the 2 grey ribbons are dissconected (from the dash-ecu) during this work and to open the box via 7 screws.
BUT in your case change battery and send the dash-ecu to reset, only after resetting the dash-ecu clock & miles and the rest will be correct again.
only remove the two greyribboncabels NOT the upper coloured ..
att: take care that the upper batteryholder (clip) holds firmly the new battery in position.

usually no problem when ignition is *ON* and only the 2 grey ribbons are dissconected (from the dash-ecu) during this work and to open the box via 7 screws.
BUT in your case change battery and send the dash-ecu to reset, only after resetting the dash-ecu clock & miles and the rest will be correct again.
only remove the two greyribboncabels NOT the upper coloured ..
att: take care that the upper batteryholder (clip) holds firmly the new battery in position.

Edited by sascha on Tuesday 24th June 20:47
Edited by sascha on Tuesday 24th June 20:48
Sascha,
I have changed the battery in the dash ECU already, I think I might be suffering from two problems, the Dash ECU needs re-setting and there is a second problem with the indicators & windows??
Does the dash ECU have any control over the indicators and windows?
I have changed the battery in the dash ECU already, I think I might be suffering from two problems, the Dash ECU needs re-setting and there is a second problem with the indicators & windows??
Does the dash ECU have any control over the indicators and windows?
Edited by samnorthy on Wednesday 25th June 05:58
Sam, i know dash ecu has control over heater fans etc, Paul told me that they (tvr) stuffed other "stuff" in the dash ecu to save on boxes....so there is a chance it is related.
BUT
i drove my car with no dash ECU (as paul had it to adjust oil pressure) no TVR engine ECU (as thats been replaced with the LS one) and everything else worked just fine so i suspect you need to look elsewhere for the other issues you have
not a lot of help i know.....
BUT
i drove my car with no dash ECU (as paul had it to adjust oil pressure) no TVR engine ECU (as thats been replaced with the LS one) and everything else worked just fine so i suspect you need to look elsewhere for the other issues you have
not a lot of help i know.....
SteveSPG said:
Sam, i know dash ecu has control over heater fans etc, Paul told me that they (tvr) stuffed other "stuff" in the dash ecu to save on boxes....so there is a chance it is related.
BUT
i drove my car with no dash ECU (as paul had it to adjust oil pressure) no TVR engine ECU (as thats been replaced with the LS one) and everything else worked just fine so i suspect you need to look elsewhere for the other issues you have
not a lot of help i know.....
Steve,BUT
i drove my car with no dash ECU (as paul had it to adjust oil pressure) no TVR engine ECU (as thats been replaced with the LS one) and everything else worked just fine so i suspect you need to look elsewhere for the other issues you have
not a lot of help i know.....
Yes I also remember driving without the dash ECU, I think it must be two separate problems.
Does anyone have a clue what the "other" TVR control module does? The one that on the trans tunnel next to the relay splice unit.
Recheck earths? Especially the passenger footwell one as its apparently particularly associated with dash stuff... That one caused me all sort of dash weirdness by not being tight... I only tightened from inside, half a turn immediately fixed everything, but iirc there are more earth wires on the other side (battery compartment) that connect to the same bolt. Someone else on here posted issues/photos caused by the wires not being tight on both sides, because you cannot really tighten properly without getting hold of the nuts from both sides, or something like that, iirc.
SergSC,
Yes I've checked the earth in the pax foot well, removed the bolt cleaned all contacts and re-installed (you need to remove the battery to get access to the nut on the outside of the body).
Are there any other earth points inside the car? I couldn't see any.
It does sound like an earth problem as there are a number of systems being effected.
Sam
Yes I've checked the earth in the pax foot well, removed the bolt cleaned all contacts and re-installed (you need to remove the battery to get access to the nut on the outside of the body).
Are there any other earth points inside the car? I couldn't see any.
It does sound like an earth problem as there are a number of systems being effected.
Sam
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