Guitar shop tech bodged my guitar, any way to fix it?
Discussion
Afternoon,
I recently took my guitar to a shop to get it set up and have the strings changed. It's a Jackson Soloist SL3 with a Floyd Rose floating bridge. Little did I know, this would lead to some major issues. The technician said, when I gave the guitar back, that one of the saddles had sheared when he was changing the strings and he'd replaced the part. I thought 'fair enough', saying as the shop carries Jackson guitars. The guitar played well, everything seemed to be working fine.
However, when I came to change the A string I discovered the problem, namely that the string won't release from the bridge. With it being a Floyd Rose, you clip the ball-end off the string and thread the tip of the string into the bridge, into the saddle. You then turn a screw at the bottom of the bridge, which locks the string clamp in place. The unlock the string, you simply turn the screw the other way using an Allen key. It requires literally, a half turn or less of the screw between releasing the string and offering acceptable compression to trap the end of the string when the mechanism is in working order. Upon trying to change the A string, I have noticed that it simply won't unclamp, and the screw doesn't seem to be doing anything. Looking at the screw, it has obviously been changed as it has a different grip on it to the other five (which have a knurled finish, this one is smooth). I can loosen the screw off so much I can remove it from the bridge by hand - nothing. I can tighten the screw to the point where it won't turn again without real effort, so I know that is the maximum turn range. No matter what I do with the screw, the string clamp doesn't release the string. I cut the old A string off to make it easier to work on, so now I've got about 3" of the old string at the bridge end to work with. It's stuck fast.
I've considered my options. I wouldn't really be happy taking it back to the same bumbling tech again, who has a reputation for getting the odd job wrong and making a mess of things. He's not officially part of the guitar shop where he works, rather he rents the basement from them and has a phoneline there, otherwise he is a one man band, so I know it's nothing to do with the guitar shop. Which leaves me the option of either complaining to him, and having him try and fix the guitar, potentially making it worse, or going to another tech and getting it fixed.
Ultimately I'm left with a guitar that doesn't f
king work, and I'll probably have to shell out to get it working again!
I recently took my guitar to a shop to get it set up and have the strings changed. It's a Jackson Soloist SL3 with a Floyd Rose floating bridge. Little did I know, this would lead to some major issues. The technician said, when I gave the guitar back, that one of the saddles had sheared when he was changing the strings and he'd replaced the part. I thought 'fair enough', saying as the shop carries Jackson guitars. The guitar played well, everything seemed to be working fine.
However, when I came to change the A string I discovered the problem, namely that the string won't release from the bridge. With it being a Floyd Rose, you clip the ball-end off the string and thread the tip of the string into the bridge, into the saddle. You then turn a screw at the bottom of the bridge, which locks the string clamp in place. The unlock the string, you simply turn the screw the other way using an Allen key. It requires literally, a half turn or less of the screw between releasing the string and offering acceptable compression to trap the end of the string when the mechanism is in working order. Upon trying to change the A string, I have noticed that it simply won't unclamp, and the screw doesn't seem to be doing anything. Looking at the screw, it has obviously been changed as it has a different grip on it to the other five (which have a knurled finish, this one is smooth). I can loosen the screw off so much I can remove it from the bridge by hand - nothing. I can tighten the screw to the point where it won't turn again without real effort, so I know that is the maximum turn range. No matter what I do with the screw, the string clamp doesn't release the string. I cut the old A string off to make it easier to work on, so now I've got about 3" of the old string at the bridge end to work with. It's stuck fast.
I've considered my options. I wouldn't really be happy taking it back to the same bumbling tech again, who has a reputation for getting the odd job wrong and making a mess of things. He's not officially part of the guitar shop where he works, rather he rents the basement from them and has a phoneline there, otherwise he is a one man band, so I know it's nothing to do with the guitar shop. Which leaves me the option of either complaining to him, and having him try and fix the guitar, potentially making it worse, or going to another tech and getting it fixed.
Ultimately I'm left with a guitar that doesn't f
king work, and I'll probably have to shell out to get it working again!I think you should ring cits advice for the legal knowhow, most likely they will say that the guitarshop get a chance to make it right. Sadly.
BUT.
I would complain, get a quote from somewhere proper with a good rep, tell them that you will be bringing them the bill. Perhaps threaten them with bad press, the internet can be savage these days so I's sure they wont appreciate some bad press on forums and the like. But that would depend on how big the shop is, if they are just for local people then that might not work.
Really sorry man, this sort of st is awful, I was so scared of giving my guitar to anyone, and that was £180 Cort (which I adored), let alone a Soloist.
Good luck, try some of the Jackson forums, they might be able to give more advice on sorting it, you might be able to fix it yourself and just as for a refund.
BUT.
I would complain, get a quote from somewhere proper with a good rep, tell them that you will be bringing them the bill. Perhaps threaten them with bad press, the internet can be savage these days so I's sure they wont appreciate some bad press on forums and the like. But that would depend on how big the shop is, if they are just for local people then that might not work.
Really sorry man, this sort of s
t is awful, I was so scared of giving my guitar to anyone, and that was £180 Cort (which I adored), let alone a Soloist.Good luck, try some of the Jackson forums, they might be able to give more advice on sorting it, you might be able to fix it yourself and just as for a refund.
I'm going to ring the bloke who messed it up in the first place during the week and see what he says. Though if he suggests anything that doesn't give me complete confidence that he'll put it right, I'll probably have to pay to have a worthy guitar tech fix it.
I'm not so much looking to press a case against this useless idiot, mainly because I suspect it would be a waste of time. More looking for reasons why it isn't working, as the string lock screw tightens and loosens, but the clamp doesn't move.
I'm not so much looking to press a case against this useless idiot, mainly because I suspect it would be a waste of time. More looking for reasons why it isn't working, as the string lock screw tightens and loosens, but the clamp doesn't move.
Baryonyx said:
I'm going to ring the bloke who messed it up in the first place during the week and see what he says. Though if he suggests anything that doesn't give me complete confidence that he'll put it right, I'll probably have to pay to have a worthy guitar tech fix it.
I'm not so much looking to press a case against this useless idiot, mainly because I suspect it would be a waste of time. More looking for reasons why it isn't working, as the string lock screw tightens and loosens, but the clamp doesn't move.
I suggested cits advice not for legal action as such, rather so you know where you stand with him asking for the guitar back - which understandably you don't want to do. I'm not so much looking to press a case against this useless idiot, mainly because I suspect it would be a waste of time. More looking for reasons why it isn't working, as the string lock screw tightens and loosens, but the clamp doesn't move.
Try Jackson forums, they might be able to tell you how to sort it, or at least tell you how much the repair might be so you can tell the arse how much he should give you.
Amongst the options would be to simply fit another complete bridge, if yours is getting on a bit (which seems likely for the problem to have arisen in the first place).
As far as the current problem is concerned, have you tried unscrewing the clamping screw and tapping the clamp block back with an appropriate implement? Or levering it back with suitable implement inserted between the clamp block and the actual bridge piece?
I'd be happy to have a look at it myself, but I understand from your profile that it would be quite a trip, and in any case my new guitar workshop isn't quite ready yet.
As far as the current problem is concerned, have you tried unscrewing the clamping screw and tapping the clamp block back with an appropriate implement? Or levering it back with suitable implement inserted between the clamp block and the actual bridge piece?
I'd be happy to have a look at it myself, but I understand from your profile that it would be quite a trip, and in any case my new guitar workshop isn't quite ready yet.
Edited by singlecoil on Saturday 28th June 20:10
Luckily there is a luthier near where I work who has a fairly professional looking website and shop. I'll pop in and ask his opinion when I get to work next. I've tried manipulating the clamp and saddle with a very fine screwdriver, but they're set tight. The screw continues to turn in and about without making a difference to anything. It's a mystery to me how the last bloke managed to get the string clamp to lock down, I don't think there is any part of the old screw in there as when this screw is at maximum tightness it's roughly equal with the other screws, which are all sitting on closed clamps.
Looks like I could end up with a £60 bill for setup, plus whatever the fix costs. I can see next year, I'll probably end up trading this guitar in for a Fender Stratocaster of some kind. I've had my fill of Floyd Rose bridges.
Looks like I could end up with a £60 bill for setup, plus whatever the fix costs. I can see next year, I'll probably end up trading this guitar in for a Fender Stratocaster of some kind. I've had my fill of Floyd Rose bridges.
Tom_C76 said:
Sounds to me like he's jammed the clamping block from a different bridge into the saddle, and that the block is too wide. Worst case fix would surely be to unbolt the saddle assembly at the intonation clamping bolt and stick in a new one?
Probably do-able. I've never taken the bridge apart by the intonation screw before (indeed, I'm not sure if I could get it back together and get the intonation right). Not being able to play the guitar absolutely sucks. I would have walked out and bought another, were it not for me going on holiday next month and planning on buying a car on my return. Looking longingly at Stratocasters now, imagining I'll look (and play) like this bloke...
Don't despair, this is an opportunity for you to learn how to do it yourself.
Many years ago when I started playing on crappy guitars nobody I knew within 100 miles could set up a guitar so I had to learn myself through articles in magazines and mostly trial and error. This was before digital tuners were thought of as well.
Nowadays everything you need to know is available free online Haynes even do a strat workshop manual and a super accurate tuner costs less than a round of drinks.
Ask away on here, there are people who could set up a Floyd Rose blindfold lurking on PH, a few pictures wouldn't hurt
Many years ago when I started playing on crappy guitars nobody I knew within 100 miles could set up a guitar so I had to learn myself through articles in magazines and mostly trial and error. This was before digital tuners were thought of as well.
Nowadays everything you need to know is available free online Haynes even do a strat workshop manual and a super accurate tuner costs less than a round of drinks.
Ask away on here, there are people who could set up a Floyd Rose blindfold lurking on PH, a few pictures wouldn't hurt
singlecoil said:
What's the overall condition of the Floyd Rose?
I played Baryonyx's guitar in the shop he bought it from, it was a second hand guitar, but was "as new". I'm pretty confident the bridge is not a write off, but the saddle unit will need replaced, based on what he's told us.Speaking of learning to DIY with guitars, I learned to set up floating trems after my wife's brother bought not one, but 2 Dean guitars, both supplied with licensed FRs that weren't in any sort of "setup" at all from the factory.
kev b said:
Don't despair, this is an opportunity for you to learn how to do it yourself.
Many years ago when I started playing on crappy guitars nobody I knew within 100 miles could set up a guitar so I had to learn myself through articles in magazines and mostly trial and error. This was before digital tuners were thought of as well.
Nowadays everything you need to know is available free online Haynes even do a strat workshop manual and a super accurate tuner costs less than a round of drinks.
Ask away on here, there are people who could set up a Floyd Rose blindfold lurking on PH, a few pictures wouldn't hurt
Based on the instructions that came with my Ibanez JS, trial and error is the only way to set the intonation on a FR trem. I've just swapped from the supplied 9s to 10s, and I've got the bridge angle back where it should be after a fair bit of retuning and adjustment, but I think I'll live with the slightly off intonation for now. Instructions seem to be tune up, check intonation, slacken off fully, move saddle a bit, retune and repeat.Many years ago when I started playing on crappy guitars nobody I knew within 100 miles could set up a guitar so I had to learn myself through articles in magazines and mostly trial and error. This was before digital tuners were thought of as well.
Nowadays everything you need to know is available free online Haynes even do a strat workshop manual and a super accurate tuner costs less than a round of drinks.
Ask away on here, there are people who could set up a Floyd Rose blindfold lurking on PH, a few pictures wouldn't hurt
Tom_C76 said:
Based on the instructions that came with my Ibanez JS, trial and error is the only way to set the intonation on a FR trem. I've just swapped from the supplied 9s to 10s, and I've got the bridge angle back where it should be after a fair bit of retuning and adjustment, but I think I'll live with the slightly off intonation for now. Instructions seem to be tune up, check intonation, slacken off fully, move saddle a bit, retune and repeat.
Well, I think we can do a bit better than that.Before starting, slacken the strings and move all the bridge pieces back as far as they will go (away from the pickups), then retune.
You've already fitted the strings of your choice so the next step which is to decide where you want the bridge to float, parallel to the face of the guitar is the usual.
So if you are happy with that, and the action, then we can move on. If not, then you may need to alter the neck angle so that you can get a satisfactory action with a suitable bridge height. Choose the bridge height first, then shim the neck if required to achieve the desired bridge height. If shims are needed, don't use card or paper, use hard plastic such as the cut up lid of an ice cream or margarine container.
Next step is to get the bridge to float. Do the springs up too tight and then find something suitable to wedge the bridge to where you want it. Sometimes with Ibanez guitars a steel rule laid across the cavity 'pull-up' cavity on the face of the guitar will be just right.
Now tune up (never mind the intonation at this stage). Now ease the springs off a bit until when the wedge is removed, the bridge stays where it is and the guitar stays in tune. This could take a while, an experienced guitar repairer will have waxed the spring claw screws before starting to make adjustment easier.
When you've got the bridge floating and the guitar staying in tune, you can do the intonation, which will be easy because everything else is right, and the bridge pieces only have to move forward. With real skill (and a t-handle allen key) you can slacken bridge clamps a touch and the string tension will pull the bridge forward just the right amount before nipping it up again.
It's certainly possible to get an Ibanez bridge smack on, the decent quality of the parts help make that achievable.
singlecoil said:
Well, I think we can do a bit better than that.
Before starting, slacken the strings and move all the bridge pieces back as far as they will go (away from the pickups), then retune.
You've already fitted the strings of your choice so the next step which is to decide where you want the bridge to float, parallel to the face of the guitar is the usual.
So if you are happy with that, and the action, then we can move on. If not, then you may need to alter the neck angle so that you can get a satisfactory action with a suitable bridge height. Choose the bridge height first, then shim the neck if required to achieve the desired bridge height. If shims are needed, don't use card or paper, use hard plastic such as the cut up lid of an ice cream or margarine container.
Next step is to get the bridge to float. Do the springs up too tight and then find something suitable to wedge the bridge to where you want it. Sometimes with Ibanez guitars a steel rule laid across the cavity 'pull-up' cavity on the face of the guitar will be just right.
Now tune up (never mind the intonation at this stage). Now ease the springs off a bit until when the wedge is removed, the bridge stays where it is and the guitar stays in tune. This could take a while, an experienced guitar repairer will have waxed the spring claw screws before starting to make adjustment easier.
When you've got the bridge floating and the guitar staying in tune, you can do the intonation, which will be easy because everything else is right, and the bridge pieces only have to move forward. With real skill (and a t-handle allen key) you can slacken bridge clamps a touch and the string tension will pull the bridge forward just the right amount before nipping it up again.
It's certainly possible to get an Ibanez bridge smack on, the decent quality of the parts help make that achievable.
How do you get the allen key onto the saddle clamp with full tension in the strings though? I'm sure with practice it is possible to do, but for now I can live with the iffy intonation, particularly as I'm having more problems from my liking of double stop bends not really playing well on a floating bridge...Before starting, slacken the strings and move all the bridge pieces back as far as they will go (away from the pickups), then retune.
You've already fitted the strings of your choice so the next step which is to decide where you want the bridge to float, parallel to the face of the guitar is the usual.
So if you are happy with that, and the action, then we can move on. If not, then you may need to alter the neck angle so that you can get a satisfactory action with a suitable bridge height. Choose the bridge height first, then shim the neck if required to achieve the desired bridge height. If shims are needed, don't use card or paper, use hard plastic such as the cut up lid of an ice cream or margarine container.
Next step is to get the bridge to float. Do the springs up too tight and then find something suitable to wedge the bridge to where you want it. Sometimes with Ibanez guitars a steel rule laid across the cavity 'pull-up' cavity on the face of the guitar will be just right.
Now tune up (never mind the intonation at this stage). Now ease the springs off a bit until when the wedge is removed, the bridge stays where it is and the guitar stays in tune. This could take a while, an experienced guitar repairer will have waxed the spring claw screws before starting to make adjustment easier.
When you've got the bridge floating and the guitar staying in tune, you can do the intonation, which will be easy because everything else is right, and the bridge pieces only have to move forward. With real skill (and a t-handle allen key) you can slacken bridge clamps a touch and the string tension will pull the bridge forward just the right amount before nipping it up again.
It's certainly possible to get an Ibanez bridge smack on, the decent quality of the parts help make that achievable.
Tom_C76 said:
How do you get the allen key onto the saddle clamp with full tension in the strings though? I'm sure with practice it is possible to do, but for now I can live with the iffy intonation, particularly as I'm having more problems from my liking of double stop bends not really playing well on a floating bridge...
It's a good while since I've done one (they're very 80s, aren't they 
) but IIRC I used to tip the bridge forward and take some tension off that way, slacken the screw a bit, let it move forward, nip it up and let the bridge float again. It gets a lot easier with practice, and once I'd got the first string right I could almost do the others by eye.Gassing Station | Music | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff