Cracked driving light Glass

[BuzzBillsberry]

Can you replace the driving light glass on the series 2 Tamora ?I.e the one that comes on with the full beam. Or do I have to replace the full unit?

I assume it's a hella unit ...anyone know the product code ?

Cheers

Buzz

[sidpinup]

Hi Buzz,

Its a sealed unit so you have to do the whole thing. Good luck, it's a pain in the rear!!!

[shep1001]

Wheel off, access through the two bung holes. Put some tape round the bung holes as the fibre glass edges can be sharp. Bezel/lamp is held in on self tappers screwed through retaining clips that fit over mouldings in the clamshell if they are the same albeit bigger than the smaller lights on mine

Shep

[sidpinup]

shep1001 said:

Wheel off, access through the two bung holes. Put some tape round the bung holes as the fibre glass edges can be sharp. Bezel/lamp is held in on self tappers screwed through retaining clips that fit over mouldings in the clamshell if they are the same albeit bigger than the smaller lights on mine

Shep

The problem you will find is that the mk2 driving lights are too big to be extracted through the bung holes in the wheel arch so you have to remove and replace through the nose section by removing the plates either side of the rad. The off side is easy as there is plenty of space but the near side has the alarm and horn in it that have to be removed first, horn bracket my be rusted and need replacing too. The mounting ring is attached with glue gun and its messy if this gets detached also....all in all its a knuckle skinning and cursing kind of job.

[BuzzBillsberry]

Hi guys thanks for that... The rads out as I'm upgrading the cooling system to TvR additional tank with the sight glass etc so I guess it's just a case of getting stuck in ...thanks Edward. I'll take a few picks as I go a long ...

Buzz

[S6OOH]

Or just cut a larger hole in the inner arch and fit a new cover from another inner arch.

[shep1001]

sidpinup said:

The problem you will find is that the mk2 driving lights are too big to be extracted through the bung holes in the wheel arch so you have to remove and replace through the nose section by removing the plates either side of the rad. The off side is easy as there is plenty of space but the near side has the alarm and horn in it that have to be removed first, horn bracket my be rusted and need replacing too. The mounting ring is attached with glue gun and its messy if this gets detached also....all in all its a knuckle skinning and cursing kind of job.

How about taking the under tray out then that covers the area in front of the rad as an alternative?