Cam change
Author
Discussion

Stevo302

Original Poster:

395 posts

159 months

Sunday 6th July 2014
quotequote all
Do you have to take the engine out to change the cam? Just that there is part of the chassis tube possibly in the way.
Cheers.

Slow M

2,862 posts

227 months

Sunday 6th July 2014
quotequote all
If there is interference, couldn't you just raise (or lower) the engine by an inch, or two? It would be simpler than removing it.

I don't know where you plan to end up, in terms of power, but be aware, that the TR6 unit does not have cam bearings, and has to be line-bored for these.

Best,
B.

heightswitch

6,322 posts

271 months

Sunday 6th July 2014
quotequote all
Slow M said:
If there is interference, couldn't you just raise (or lower) the engine by an inch, or two? It would be simpler than removing it.

I don't know where you plan to end up, in terms of power, but be aware, that the TR6 unit does not have cam bearings, and has to be line-bored for these.

Best,
B.
The engine doesn't have a bad reputation for wearing the cam bores.. You would be very unlucky to have so much wear as to need to line bore and fit bearings..
The nose of the engine should lift after loosening the engine mounts and cam should come out the front with radiator etc removed.

If you have a smog spec USA engine (common in the 2500) a UK spec 150hp cam will be found to work very well and reasonably cheap to buy..

Talk to John Sykes at TR bitz for bullst free advice on tuning and replacement cam… The engine can be made to go very well but much beyond basic cam and induction gets very very expensive. Just de-americanising it will be enough for most.

N.

Slow M

2,862 posts

227 months

Monday 7th July 2014
quotequote all
heightswitch said:
The engine doesn't have a bad reputation for wearing the cam bores.. You would be very unlucky to have so much wear as to need to line bore and fit bearings..
The nose of the engine should lift after loosening the engine mounts and cam should come out the front with radiator etc removed.

If you have a smog spec USA engine (common in the 2500) a UK spec 150hp cam will be found to work very well and reasonably cheap to buy..

Talk to John Sykes at TR bitz for bullst free advice on tuning and replacement cam… The engine can be made to go very well but much beyond basic cam and induction gets very very expensive. Just de-americanising it will be enough for most.

N.
The engine has a reputation for wearing cam bores when you get into serious spring pressures.

Best,
B.

Stevo302

Original Poster:

395 posts

159 months

Wednesday 9th July 2014
quotequote all
Just had a quote for cam change. To include everything, labour, CAM, all seals, followers, pulley etc, etc....£1600 all in. thats £200 per BHP. Hmmmm, dont think ill bother unless I do it myself.

Slow M

2,862 posts

227 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
quotequote all
Well, it's not brain surgery. If you get stuck, ask a friend to help, or look for help here, or on other internet resources. The biggest help is a long lever/handle attached to the cam. Use absurd amounts of assembly lube.

Hopefully, your math is off. Changing a cam for 8 horses is NOT worthwhile.

I would highly recommend an adjustable cam sprocket. It makes timing adjustment just so nice, and easy. Also, it be welcomed by your dyno tuner, if you visit one.

Best,
B.