Discussion
If there is interference, couldn't you just raise (or lower) the engine by an inch, or two? It would be simpler than removing it.
I don't know where you plan to end up, in terms of power, but be aware, that the TR6 unit does not have cam bearings, and has to be line-bored for these.
Best,
B.
I don't know where you plan to end up, in terms of power, but be aware, that the TR6 unit does not have cam bearings, and has to be line-bored for these.
Best,
B.
Slow M said:
If there is interference, couldn't you just raise (or lower) the engine by an inch, or two? It would be simpler than removing it.
I don't know where you plan to end up, in terms of power, but be aware, that the TR6 unit does not have cam bearings, and has to be line-bored for these.
Best,
B.
The engine doesn't have a bad reputation for wearing the cam bores.. You would be very unlucky to have so much wear as to need to line bore and fit bearings..I don't know where you plan to end up, in terms of power, but be aware, that the TR6 unit does not have cam bearings, and has to be line-bored for these.
Best,
B.
The nose of the engine should lift after loosening the engine mounts and cam should come out the front with radiator etc removed.
If you have a smog spec USA engine (common in the 2500) a UK spec 150hp cam will be found to work very well and reasonably cheap to buy..
Talk to John Sykes at TR bitz for bulls
t free advice on tuning and replacement cam… The engine can be made to go very well but much beyond basic cam and induction gets very very expensive. Just de-americanising it will be enough for most.N.
heightswitch said:
The engine doesn't have a bad reputation for wearing the cam bores.. You would be very unlucky to have so much wear as to need to line bore and fit bearings..
The nose of the engine should lift after loosening the engine mounts and cam should come out the front with radiator etc removed.
If you have a smog spec USA engine (common in the 2500) a UK spec 150hp cam will be found to work very well and reasonably cheap to buy..
Talk to John Sykes at TR bitz for bulls
t free advice on tuning and replacement cam… The engine can be made to go very well but much beyond basic cam and induction gets very very expensive. Just de-americanising it will be enough for most.
N.
The engine has a reputation for wearing cam bores when you get into serious spring pressures. The nose of the engine should lift after loosening the engine mounts and cam should come out the front with radiator etc removed.
If you have a smog spec USA engine (common in the 2500) a UK spec 150hp cam will be found to work very well and reasonably cheap to buy..
Talk to John Sykes at TR bitz for bulls
t free advice on tuning and replacement cam… The engine can be made to go very well but much beyond basic cam and induction gets very very expensive. Just de-americanising it will be enough for most.N.
Best,
B.
Well, it's not brain surgery. If you get stuck, ask a friend to help, or look for help here, or on other internet resources. The biggest help is a long lever/handle attached to the cam. Use absurd amounts of assembly lube.
Hopefully, your math is off. Changing a cam for 8 horses is NOT worthwhile.
I would highly recommend an adjustable cam sprocket. It makes timing adjustment just so nice, and easy. Also, it be welcomed by your dyno tuner, if you visit one.
Best,
B.
Hopefully, your math is off. Changing a cam for 8 horses is NOT worthwhile.
I would highly recommend an adjustable cam sprocket. It makes timing adjustment just so nice, and easy. Also, it be welcomed by your dyno tuner, if you visit one.
Best,
B.
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