Longevity of bike components
Discussion
I've had my bike since last September, it's a lovely carbon machine with some 'good' if not 'spectacular' components. RRP of bike was £3k and is kitted out with FSA SL-K, Campag Athena and Fulcrum Racing 3's.
In the 1600 (mostly dry spring/summer) miles that I've ridden it I've had to have the wheels serviced, cassette replaced after 100 miles (due to original being made of cheese) and numerous attempts at getting rid of niggling creaks.
Yesterday however was the final straw, on way home it developed a genuinely loud creak, much the same as if a BB has a terminal problem.
I took the cups out today and they were as smooth as butter, thoroughly re-greased threads and torqued up, I also changed pedals and again re-greased.
A quick test ride revealed that the creak was still present so off to the LBS it went; their suggestion was to replace BB and headset so I went with that advice, on getting bike back creak was still present on ride home. Before going back to LBS I changed pedals for a 3rd set and creak still present. LBS will look again at it tomorrow.
I'm super careful with my bike and treat it as well as one could hope for, I certainly don't think that 1600 miles is too much to expect to get from components, I expect to put at least 3000 miles per year on my summer bike and quite frankly can't justify paying that much per year to keep it going.
In the 1600 (mostly dry spring/summer) miles that I've ridden it I've had to have the wheels serviced, cassette replaced after 100 miles (due to original being made of cheese) and numerous attempts at getting rid of niggling creaks.
Yesterday however was the final straw, on way home it developed a genuinely loud creak, much the same as if a BB has a terminal problem.
I took the cups out today and they were as smooth as butter, thoroughly re-greased threads and torqued up, I also changed pedals and again re-greased.
A quick test ride revealed that the creak was still present so off to the LBS it went; their suggestion was to replace BB and headset so I went with that advice, on getting bike back creak was still present on ride home. Before going back to LBS I changed pedals for a 3rd set and creak still present. LBS will look again at it tomorrow.
I'm super careful with my bike and treat it as well as one could hope for, I certainly don't think that 1600 miles is too much to expect to get from components, I expect to put at least 3000 miles per year on my summer bike and quite frankly can't justify paying that much per year to keep it going.
100 miles out of a cassette?! WTF happened to it?
I've got a Trek 1.2 with bog standard Sora groupset which I have done 7,000km on in the last 18 months commuting and leisure rides whatever the weather. I would say that I am pretty good with maintenance but hardly an avid enthusiast. In that time I have rebuilt the hubs twice, replaced the brake pads 3 times, replaced the chain and cassette, the bar tape and the cables. This is kind of as I would expect really. If my kit was lasting a lot less than that I'd be returning it as not fit for purpose as it's either not been installed correctly or is just plain crap.
I've got a Trek 1.2 with bog standard Sora groupset which I have done 7,000km on in the last 18 months commuting and leisure rides whatever the weather. I would say that I am pretty good with maintenance but hardly an avid enthusiast. In that time I have rebuilt the hubs twice, replaced the brake pads 3 times, replaced the chain and cassette, the bar tape and the cables. This is kind of as I would expect really. If my kit was lasting a lot less than that I'd be returning it as not fit for purpose as it's either not been installed correctly or is just plain crap.
timnoyce said:
100 miles out of a cassette?! WTF happened to it?
If my kit was lasting a lot less than that I'd be returning it as not fit for purpose as it's either not been installed correctly or is just plain crap.
I had a row about this with my LBS a couple of years ago. Numerous components on my Scott mountain bike failed within a thousand miles of dry, mostly road use. They replaced the wheels FOC (the rear hub had given up the ghost) but I had to replace the drive train. I was made to feel as though I was being hugely unreasonable. Scott themselves didn't want to know (wear and tear, sir).If my kit was lasting a lot less than that I'd be returning it as not fit for purpose as it's either not been installed correctly or is just plain crap.
Eventually the LBS conceded that the bike was, and I quote, "basically crap".
Obviously I'll never use them or Scott again but everything I hear leads me to believe it happens with most makes. Not everyone wants super lightweight components that have to be changed every couple of rides.
TheFungle said:
I've had my bike since last September, it's a lovely carbon machine with some 'good' if not 'spectacular' components. RRP of bike was £3k and is kitted out with FSA SL-K, Campag Athena and Fulcrum Racing 3's.
In the 1600 (mostly dry spring/summer) miles that I've ridden it I've had to have the wheels serviced, cassette replaced after 100 miles (due to original being made of cheese) and numerous attempts at getting rid of niggling creaks.
Yesterday however was the final straw, on way home it developed a genuinely loud creak, much the same as if a BB has a terminal problem.
I took the cups out today and they were as smooth as butter, thoroughly re-greased threads and torqued up, I also changed pedals and again re-greased.
A quick test ride revealed that the creak was still present so off to the LBS it went; their suggestion was to replace BB and headset so I went with that advice, on getting bike back creak was still present on ride home. Before going back to LBS I changed pedals for a 3rd set and creak still present. LBS will look again at it tomorrow.
I'm super careful with my bike and treat it as well as one could hope for, I certainly don't think that 1600 miles is too much to expect to get from components, I expect to put at least 3000 miles per year on my summer bike and quite frankly can't justify paying that much per year to keep it going.
Can I suggest something regarding the loud 'creak' .... its not your BB ... its not your pedals or your headset and I'm surprised your LBS hasn't discovered what it is. As I have had this on 'all' my road bikes but only recently discovered the cause ...... its your chain set. In the 1600 (mostly dry spring/summer) miles that I've ridden it I've had to have the wheels serviced, cassette replaced after 100 miles (due to original being made of cheese) and numerous attempts at getting rid of niggling creaks.
Yesterday however was the final straw, on way home it developed a genuinely loud creak, much the same as if a BB has a terminal problem.
I took the cups out today and they were as smooth as butter, thoroughly re-greased threads and torqued up, I also changed pedals and again re-greased.
A quick test ride revealed that the creak was still present so off to the LBS it went; their suggestion was to replace BB and headset so I went with that advice, on getting bike back creak was still present on ride home. Before going back to LBS I changed pedals for a 3rd set and creak still present. LBS will look again at it tomorrow.
I'm super careful with my bike and treat it as well as one could hope for, I certainly don't think that 1600 miles is too much to expect to get from components, I expect to put at least 3000 miles per year on my summer bike and quite frankly can't justify paying that much per year to keep it going.
Mine always developed after cleaning when water has found its way around the chain set bolts causing the creaking noise once dried.
The cure is simple ... just squirt some GT85 into the area where your smaller chain ring is bolted to the chainset and the noise will disappear.
I'm not sure where your bike should be running so rough after a relatively short time ... in 2000 miles since the end of March, I've replaced tyres (better ones) and just had a new chain and cassette and the bike runs as smoothly as the day I bought it.
Bit of a timely thread!
I'm also starting to wonder if components are made out of edam. I've just had to replace the front mech on my DA9070, due to a bent cage (after 15mths / 5k). LBS nor I can figure out how the cage was bent (on one side only). Despite having this replaced only last week; the shifting died again on Friday coming out of Harrogate so the whole "owning" experience of expensive bikes is starting to grate (especially limping back to Leeds in the torrential rain).
Up until this, I was kinda putting down issues to foibles (Q Rings and Di2 prone to throwing chain, rubbing from rear aero brake with aero rims, intermittent creak from fork etc etc); but now I'm starting to get the ump with the bike constantly needing something repaired. Its like needing to either employ a tour mechanic for club runs or be Adnam Kashoggi.
General maintenance in little over a year include:
3 services
2 x bearing replacements in BB
3 sets of brake pads
1 x set of cables,
4 sets of tyres
New chain
The only miracle (as far as DA is concerned) is NOT having to replace the rear cassette.
Dura Ace for garage queens, Ultegra for riding, methinks!
I'm also starting to wonder if components are made out of edam. I've just had to replace the front mech on my DA9070, due to a bent cage (after 15mths / 5k). LBS nor I can figure out how the cage was bent (on one side only). Despite having this replaced only last week; the shifting died again on Friday coming out of Harrogate so the whole "owning" experience of expensive bikes is starting to grate (especially limping back to Leeds in the torrential rain).
Up until this, I was kinda putting down issues to foibles (Q Rings and Di2 prone to throwing chain, rubbing from rear aero brake with aero rims, intermittent creak from fork etc etc); but now I'm starting to get the ump with the bike constantly needing something repaired. Its like needing to either employ a tour mechanic for club runs or be Adnam Kashoggi.
General maintenance in little over a year include:
3 services
2 x bearing replacements in BB
3 sets of brake pads
1 x set of cables,
4 sets of tyres
New chain
The only miracle (as far as DA is concerned) is NOT having to replace the rear cassette.
Dura Ace for garage queens, Ultegra for riding, methinks!
stongle said:
Bit of a timely thread!
I'm also starting to wonder if components are made out of edam. I've just had to replace the front mech on my DA9070, due to a bent cage (after 15mths / 5k). LBS nor I can figure out how the cage was bent (on one side only). Despite having this replaced only last week; the shifting died again on Friday coming out of Harrogate so the whole "owning" experience of expensive bikes is starting to grate (especially limping back to Leeds in the torrential rain).
Up until this, I was kinda putting down issues to foibles (Q Rings and Di2 prone to throwing chain, rubbing from rear aero brake with aero rims, intermittent creak from fork etc etc); but now I'm starting to get the ump with the bike constantly needing something repaired. Its like needing to either employ a tour mechanic for club runs or be Adnam Kashoggi.
General maintenance in little over a year include:
3 services
2 x bearing replacements in BB
3 sets of brake pads
1 x set of cables,
4 sets of tyres
New chain
The only miracle (as far as DA is concerned) is NOT having to replace the rear cassette.
Dura Ace for garage queens, Ultegra for riding, methinks!
Ouch, that sounds like an awful lot of bad luck! I've still not ventured into the Di2 world yet ... been running DA9000 for 3 months and 2k with no issues (apart from the creaking chainset!) .... I actually have a Ultegra chain and cassette which suits me as they're cheaper to replace more often. I have a similar issue of aero brake rubbing on aero rim although I suspect spokes need tightening as the wheels have only done around 1k now ... I'm also starting to wonder if components are made out of edam. I've just had to replace the front mech on my DA9070, due to a bent cage (after 15mths / 5k). LBS nor I can figure out how the cage was bent (on one side only). Despite having this replaced only last week; the shifting died again on Friday coming out of Harrogate so the whole "owning" experience of expensive bikes is starting to grate (especially limping back to Leeds in the torrential rain).
Up until this, I was kinda putting down issues to foibles (Q Rings and Di2 prone to throwing chain, rubbing from rear aero brake with aero rims, intermittent creak from fork etc etc); but now I'm starting to get the ump with the bike constantly needing something repaired. Its like needing to either employ a tour mechanic for club runs or be Adnam Kashoggi.
General maintenance in little over a year include:
3 services
2 x bearing replacements in BB
3 sets of brake pads
1 x set of cables,
4 sets of tyres
New chain
The only miracle (as far as DA is concerned) is NOT having to replace the rear cassette.
Dura Ace for garage queens, Ultegra for riding, methinks!
stongle said:
General maintenance in little over a year include:
3 services
2 x bearing replacements in BB
3 sets of brake pads
1 x set of cables,
4 sets of tyres
New chain
I can't understand why you'd have needed any of that lot, especially all those tyres! 3 services
2 x bearing replacements in BB
3 sets of brake pads
1 x set of cables,
4 sets of tyres
New chain
I'd agree that the OP needs to find a decent shop.
My bikes see a fair amount of action/mileage, I picked up my Colnago around April last year and have put circa 7k miles on it since then, they have not been totally hassle free but the clicks and squeaks that have developed in that time are what I would expect for the miles. I have been through a few chains, needed the b/b removing and re-seating (after a VERY wet 145 mile ride), tyres but other than that I can't think of anything major!
In a year (depending on mileage) I would expect to go through a few chains, a cable set, brake blocks, bar tape and possibly a bottom bracket.
I service my bikes myself, not because I don't trust my LBS but because I know my service will be a lot more thorough. I expect things to come a little loose so invested in torque key and regularly check the seat post bolt, headset and stem bolts, hanger bolt (these come loose and are VERY expensive if you take out the mech and rear wheel). I also remove the pedals every couple of months and re-grease the threads which stops pedal click.
The bike has Zipp 303's fitted which require adjustment to keep the bearings nice and snug and stop any play in the wheel - again it's only a 2 min job.
Back to the OP's original point about infuriating clicks! Have a check of the saddle, I have a Charge Spoon on an MTB where one of the retaining screws in a saddle rail was slightly loose and produced an infuriating click. Another less obvious cause could be the bar being slightly loose in the stem - so give the stem bolts a quick tweak. The obvious thing to do when you have a click is chase it through the drive-train, but 9 times out of 10 it originates in a static part of the bike!
In a year (depending on mileage) I would expect to go through a few chains, a cable set, brake blocks, bar tape and possibly a bottom bracket.
I service my bikes myself, not because I don't trust my LBS but because I know my service will be a lot more thorough. I expect things to come a little loose so invested in torque key and regularly check the seat post bolt, headset and stem bolts, hanger bolt (these come loose and are VERY expensive if you take out the mech and rear wheel). I also remove the pedals every couple of months and re-grease the threads which stops pedal click.
The bike has Zipp 303's fitted which require adjustment to keep the bearings nice and snug and stop any play in the wheel - again it's only a 2 min job.
Back to the OP's original point about infuriating clicks! Have a check of the saddle, I have a Charge Spoon on an MTB where one of the retaining screws in a saddle rail was slightly loose and produced an infuriating click. Another less obvious cause could be the bar being slightly loose in the stem - so give the stem bolts a quick tweak. The obvious thing to do when you have a click is chase it through the drive-train, but 9 times out of 10 it originates in a static part of the bike!
I think you just have to put up with a fairly constant process of adjusting and replacing parts on modern bikes if you do alot of miles. I agree with how stupid it is though. Compared with a car there must be about %2 of moving parts but so far this year for my two bikes I have had to fix 4 wheels (two currently in LBS), bottom bracket, two chains, cassette, 8 brake pads, 2 hub bearings, rear mech, and 4 new tyres. Not to mention annoying creaking coming an going on both, despite removing and greasing everything plus regular cleaning. For my two cars: nothing other than engine oil and petrol!
timnoyce said:
100 miles out of a cassette?! WTF happened to it?
Original cassette was a Miche which is renowned for not last long, it was apparent after very little miles it would cause issues so I changed to Campag for cost price.It would appear the source of the creak is the free hub bearings.
1600 miles after both sets of wheels have been serviced? Not overly impressed especially given Fulcrum's reputation for reliability.
Glad im not the only one thinking expensive bikes are crap.
Bought my first expensive bike (to me) its a Boardman, 3 months ago and i spend as much time finding creaks, taking things apart to clean and re-grease as i do riding it.
So far the free hub went crunchy and loose (grit and dust got in it)(replaced)
steering head bearing started seizing(rust) (stripped and greased)
Deuralier wheels seized,(grit, dust and rust) (stripped and greased)
Gears forever need re adjusting, probably cable just stretching
Bottom bracket bearings seized solid after bike was not rode for a week waiting for free hub to arrive,(gone rusty, replaced)
It's like all the components are not fit for purpose, parts come from factory without seeing any grease, and nothing seems to have effective seals against water
Mine is a cross bike, so you would expect it to take a few splashes of water and mud, and i do meticulously clean it after a mucky ride.
My last racer bike i had at 16 got the wheels rode of it, not really well treated and i dont remember anything creaking or packing up on that
Bought my first expensive bike (to me) its a Boardman, 3 months ago and i spend as much time finding creaks, taking things apart to clean and re-grease as i do riding it.
So far the free hub went crunchy and loose (grit and dust got in it)(replaced)
steering head bearing started seizing(rust) (stripped and greased)
Deuralier wheels seized,(grit, dust and rust) (stripped and greased)
Gears forever need re adjusting, probably cable just stretching
Bottom bracket bearings seized solid after bike was not rode for a week waiting for free hub to arrive,(gone rusty, replaced)
It's like all the components are not fit for purpose, parts come from factory without seeing any grease, and nothing seems to have effective seals against water
Mine is a cross bike, so you would expect it to take a few splashes of water and mud, and i do meticulously clean it after a mucky ride.
My last racer bike i had at 16 got the wheels rode of it, not really well treated and i dont remember anything creaking or packing up on that
I am sorry but 100 miles out of a cassette is utter tosh unless it was faulty, there is no way even a cheap miche would only last 100 miles! I would have expected the LBS who supplied the bike to replace it foc at that mileage.
Free hub bearings causing the creak also sounds like a bit of a tall story to me. I have a set of Fulcrum's with 4k miles on them and never had an issue, a lot of guys I ride with have Fulcrums and have never had an issue with them. Why did the LBS tell you they needed servicing at 1,600 miles?
How much do you trust your LBS? It might be run by 'nice' people but do they actually know what they are doing? From your post they seem to just want to charge for changing parts or servicing things that should not need touching at such short mileage. My suggestion would be not to part with anymore cash and find a decent independent LBS for a second opinion!
Free hub bearings causing the creak also sounds like a bit of a tall story to me. I have a set of Fulcrum's with 4k miles on them and never had an issue, a lot of guys I ride with have Fulcrums and have never had an issue with them. Why did the LBS tell you they needed servicing at 1,600 miles?
How much do you trust your LBS? It might be run by 'nice' people but do they actually know what they are doing? From your post they seem to just want to charge for changing parts or servicing things that should not need touching at such short mileage. My suggestion would be not to part with anymore cash and find a decent independent LBS for a second opinion!
martinnitram said:
Glad im not the only one thinking expensive bikes are crap.
Bought my first expensive bike (to me) its a Boardman, 3 months ago and i spend as much time finding creaks, taking things apart to clean and re-grease as i do riding it.
So far the free hub went crunchy and loose (grit and dust got in it)(replaced)
steering head bearing started seizing(rust) (stripped and greased)
Deuralier wheels seized,(grit, dust and rust) (stripped and greased)
Gears forever need re adjusting, probably cable just stretching
Bottom bracket bearings seized solid after bike was not rode for a week waiting for free hub to arrive,(gone rusty, replaced)
It's like all the components are not fit for purpose, parts come from factory without seeing any grease, and nothing seems to have effective seals against water
Mine is a cross bike, so you would expect it to take a few splashes of water and mud, and i do meticulously clean it after a mucky ride.
My last racer bike i had at 16 got the wheels rode of it, not really well treated and i dont remember anything creaking or packing up on that
Who built it? If Halfords, that is the problem.Bought my first expensive bike (to me) its a Boardman, 3 months ago and i spend as much time finding creaks, taking things apart to clean and re-grease as i do riding it.
So far the free hub went crunchy and loose (grit and dust got in it)(replaced)
steering head bearing started seizing(rust) (stripped and greased)
Deuralier wheels seized,(grit, dust and rust) (stripped and greased)
Gears forever need re adjusting, probably cable just stretching
Bottom bracket bearings seized solid after bike was not rode for a week waiting for free hub to arrive,(gone rusty, replaced)
It's like all the components are not fit for purpose, parts come from factory without seeing any grease, and nothing seems to have effective seals against water
Mine is a cross bike, so you would expect it to take a few splashes of water and mud, and i do meticulously clean it after a mucky ride.
My last racer bike i had at 16 got the wheels rode of it, not really well treated and i dont remember anything creaking or packing up on that
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