Bl@@dy rocker covers!
Bl@@dy rocker covers!
Author
Discussion

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

166 months

Wednesday 9th July 2014
quotequote all
I had them blasted and powder coated. I then read a thread today about some people finding sand trapped in the overspray, which comes loose with the hot oil and then damages the engine. It's been eating away at me all day, so I put the little one to bed this evening and went and removed them again. They're full out sand and paint trapped on the inside of them. Some of the overspray has also trapped old oil and sand, which has simply rubbed off. Back to the powder coaters tomorrow morning. It's bloody inconvenient, but also a damn good job I never ran the engine with these on!

A word of caution for all those powder coating in the future!

Edited by Chuffmeister on Wednesday 9th July 23:49

phazed

22,487 posts

233 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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Found that on mine, beware, big time!

SILICONEKIDOBHP

14,997 posts

260 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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Mine are only powder coated on the out side !

phillpot

17,511 posts

212 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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When I had mine done the guy asked me to bring them in screwed to a piece of ply or mdf and then he would bung up all the other holes (oil fill, breather etc.)


Perfect job, no sand or overspray inside smile



phazed

22,487 posts

233 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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SILICONEKIDOBHP said:
Mine are only powder coated on the out side !
So are mine and they still had millions of tiny beads lodged everywhere, even in the thread of the oil filler neck!

This was from a company that did loads of rocker covers and engine parts!!!! Beware.

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

166 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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Took them back this morning and he said he would clean them up. He said a scratch pad normally works well. Didn't fancy it myself as I've had white finger from scraping back the chassis (all painted now though! - should do a couple of years). The MDF tip is a good one. I'll suggest that when I pick them up.

This is definitely something that could catch out the unaware or those lacking in TVR OCD! A few horror stories about.

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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TBH I've never found sand blasting very effective at cleaning the rocker covers (long soak in thinners has worked better for me), apparently bead blasting is better I hear. At any rate they need a good wash afterwards to remove any sand granules, then dried & wiped with solvent (and untouched apart from clean rubber gloves till coating) IMHO.

I lightly oil the insides & threads before coating (the coating wont adhere to that!) to keep them clean ally. Then again I've only bothered restoring & hole filling proper TVR covers so spent plenty of time getting rid of the plug lead retainer holes, polishing the insides and grinding so the gaskets fit snugly...... as well as clearance checks for rocker gear.

jojackson4

3,049 posts

166 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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Just got some wallnut stuff for blasting mine will let you know what it's like

phillpot

17,511 posts

212 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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phillpot said:
Perfect job, no sand or overspray inside smile
When I said "sand" I meant blasting media but sand is easier to type, does anybody actually use sand these days?

phazed

22,487 posts

233 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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Silica beads?

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Thursday 10th July 2014
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Various grits (they're sand in my mind), glass beads, water+ beads..... can be used - but.... I think it needs a fairly abrasive grit (with sharp edges) to get off the old coating, unlike nice beads that can render a nice smooth ally finish IYSWIM.

Badgerchim

149 posts

164 months

Saturday 12th July 2014
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Is it considered too risky removing the baffles to clean properly behind and risking screws loosening and dropping into rockers. If not was is the best compound to use when fixing back?

Chuffmeister

Original Poster:

3,597 posts

166 months

Saturday 12th July 2014
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I removed my baffles before getting them blasted and coated. In fact, I'm just off out to pick them up do my Y piece. If you're concerned about them becoming loose, I guess you could use a bit of Loctite on the threads. Stuff falling into the engine is never good, however, I should imagine that they would rest in the recesses in the top of the heads in the unlikely event of them becoming loose... Or falling down the valley, past the cam and into the sump, should the manage to make their way into the gaps near the pushrods.

I'm not sure if this has happened to anybody before, but a worthwhile thing to consider???

Edited by Chuffmeister on Saturday 12th July 10:16

phazed

22,487 posts

233 months

Saturday 12th July 2014
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I've always just screwed them up tight.

It's a non moving part so don't worry.

Twistygit

800 posts

182 months

Saturday 12th July 2014
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Slightly off topic but is there a nack of getting the water pipe on without scratching the life out of them?

gavgavgav

1,569 posts

258 months

Saturday 12th July 2014
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Twistygit said:
Slightly off topic but is there a nack of getting the water pipe on without scratching the life out of them?
Don't ask me to help, I did the same!

phazed

22,487 posts

233 months

Sunday 13th July 2014
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Twistygit said:
Slightly off topic but is there a nack of getting the water pipe on without scratching the life out of them?
Throw the metal pipes away and run them under the inlet above the valley in rubber hose.

Edited by phazed on Sunday 13th July 11:17

Twistygit

800 posts

182 months

Sunday 13th July 2014
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I bought them shinny pipes so not throwing them,

2 sMoKiN bArReLs

32,019 posts

264 months

Sunday 13th July 2014
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Twistygit said:
I bought them shinny pipes so not throwing them,
Is that shinny pipes for a leggy engine? hehe

Sardonicus

19,450 posts

250 months

Sunday 13th July 2014
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Twistygit said:
Slightly off topic but is there a nack of getting the water pipe on without scratching the life out of them?
Masking tape then remove once that offside cover is in place, it is a pain though but saves gouging the finish.