new owner/member and immobiliser problems
Discussion
I would have preferred to have posted a more glamorous photo of my new 450, but it's on a recovery vehcile... perhaps I should get used to it.
At fairford air tattoo yesterday, drove there no problems, when I come to go the immobiliser won't engage and allow fuel pump to prime. Used fob and dongle thing and immobiliser light will go solid briefly (which is good) and then go out for 1-2 seconds, then return to its blinking pattern (which is bad
).
No crank life nothing, AA tested battery at 12.2 volts and agreed it was immobiliser. But they wouldn't mess around with it.
I did swap over fuel pump relays just in case but did zip.
So...... can I buy a plug n play replacement? Is there a way to bypass/disable it (PM it there's a way, not publicly) so I can get it in my garage.
Cheers
PS - for the last 900 miles it's been a blast, straight through exhaust, tidy enough block and chassis looks fine, rev counter a bit bouncy but goes like the preverbial.
At fairford air tattoo yesterday, drove there no problems, when I come to go the immobiliser won't engage and allow fuel pump to prime. Used fob and dongle thing and immobiliser light will go solid briefly (which is good) and then go out for 1-2 seconds, then return to its blinking pattern (which is bad
).No crank life nothing, AA tested battery at 12.2 volts and agreed it was immobiliser. But they wouldn't mess around with it.
I did swap over fuel pump relays just in case but did zip.
So...... can I buy a plug n play replacement? Is there a way to bypass/disable it (PM it there's a way, not publicly) so I can get it in my garage.
Cheers
PS - for the last 900 miles it's been a blast, straight through exhaust, tidy enough block and chassis looks fine, rev counter a bit bouncy but goes like the preverbial.
Email (through his profile - top right on that page) a guy on PH called Chimpongas (aka Dave, aka Ole Gasbag). He is a whizz at this sort of stuff and does know how to bypass the fuel pump part of the immoboliser while leaving the rest operational.
He's the last poster on this thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Be prepared to receive an essay, giving detailed step by step instructions - Dave sleeps in his anorak, but at times like this it's a good thing
He's the last poster on this thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Be prepared to receive an essay, giving detailed step by step instructions - Dave sleeps in his anorak, but at times like this it's a good thing
QBee said:
Email (through his profile - top right on that page) a guy on PH called Chimpongas (aka Dave, aka Ole Gasbag). He is a whizz at this sort of stuff and does know how to bypass the fuel pump part of the immoboliser while leaving the rest operational.
He's the last poster on this thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Be prepared to receive an essay, giving detailed step by step instructions - Dave sleeps in his anorak, but at times like this it's a good thing
I`m hoping he will take the starter motor off the immobiliser .He's the last poster on this thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Be prepared to receive an essay, giving detailed step by step instructions - Dave sleeps in his anorak, but at times like this it's a good thing
Edited by SILICONEKIDOBHP on Sunday 13th July 16:27
SILICONEKIDOBHP said:
QBee said:
Email (through his profile - top right on that page) a guy on PH called Chimpongas (aka Dave, aka Ole Gasbag). He is a whizz at this sort of stuff and does know how to bypass the fuel pump part of the immoboliser while leaving the rest operational.
He's the last poster on this thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Be prepared to receive an essay, giving detailed step by step instructions - Dave sleeps in his anorak, but at times like this it's a good thing
I`m hoping he take take the starter motor off the immobiliser .He's the last poster on this thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Be prepared to receive an essay, giving detailed step by step instructions - Dave sleeps in his anorak, but at times like this it's a good thing
The immobiliser is just a switch you operate using the infrared alarm fob.
Like a switch it's either open or closed, and like a switch you can simply bypass it.
All you need to do is find the right wires and it's easy, use a test meter & some common sense and you can bypass it easily.
As easy as all this is, its still not the sort of thing you'd want to see posted on a public forum.
Dave.
Like a switch it's either open or closed, and like a switch you can simply bypass it.
All you need to do is find the right wires and it's easy, use a test meter & some common sense and you can bypass it easily.
As easy as all this is, its still not the sort of thing you'd want to see posted on a public forum.
Dave.
Usually due to the immobiliser relay sticking. Mine does it occasionally. Turn ignition to second position, hit keyfob button to disable immobiliser then give the underside of the passenger side of the dash a good hard slap and with luck you'll hear the fuel pump burst into life. Worked every time on mine so far.
Temporary fix of course, I just havent got around to having the alarm replaced yet.
Temporary fix of course, I just havent got around to having the alarm replaced yet.
Dodsy said:
Usually due to the immobiliser relay sticking. Mine does it occasionally. Turn ignition to second position, hit keyfob button to disable immobiliser then give the underside of the passenger side of the dash a good hard slap and with luck you'll hear the fuel pump burst into life. Worked every time on mine so far.
Temporary fix of course, I just havent got around to having the alarm replaced yet.
update: So tried the spare immobiliser dongle on key #2 and it worked, can't tell you why but it worked. Took it out for spin, got home and tried a restart - at this point the spare dongle didn't work 3 or 4 times but did on the 5th attempt. Temporary fix of course, I just havent got around to having the alarm replaced yet.
So the key fob and dongle don't work since last night but spare dongle did but intermittently. So confused still.
Earlier today I took apart the dash to look at the system but only saw the alarm (meta m99) and door controller. Didn't see the immobiliser (m36), where is it as I agree with the above that the relay is sticking. Is it possible to get just M36 and somehow have somone key it to the alarm?
Dodsy said:
Usually due to the immobiliser relay sticking. Mine does it occasionally. Turn ignition to second position, hit keyfob button to disable immobiliser then give the underside of the passenger side of the dash a good hard slap and with luck you'll hear the fuel pump burst into life. Worked every time on mine so far.
Temporary fix of course, I just havent got around to having the alarm replaced yet.
isn't this about a sticking fuel relay? Doesn't sound like your immobiliser is a problem if the light goes out (disabled)Temporary fix of course, I just havent got around to having the alarm replaced yet.
From the pic, yours is a later car, so you shouldn't need to use the dongle at all - just unlocking the doors should de-immobilise it.
HOWEVER, if you don't try to start the car within 15 seconds (think it is - mine has been changed to a different one) the immobiliser will re-set. Did you try locking and uunlocking the car when you had the problem?
HOWEVER, if you don't try to start the car within 15 seconds (think it is - mine has been changed to a different one) the immobiliser will re-set. Did you try locking and uunlocking the car when you had the problem?
QBee said:
From the pic, yours is a later car, so you shouldn't need to use the dongle at all - just unlocking the doors should de-immobilise it.
HOWEVER, if you don't try to start the car within 15 seconds (think it is - mine has been changed to a different one) the immobiliser will re-set. Did you try locking and uunlocking the car when you had the problem?
I had a few hours waiting for assistance and tried that, car is 1998, but no success.HOWEVER, if you don't try to start the car within 15 seconds (think it is - mine has been changed to a different one) the immobiliser will re-set. Did you try locking and uunlocking the car when you had the problem?
What I don't get is the red light stays solid when any of the fob/dongles are used. None disable the immobiliser. Except the random 2nd dongle. I was thinking immobiliser relay (if it exists) as the system is just a switch (could be v. wrong here though).
How do you repair the fob/dongles with the system? might be worth a try,
If you still have the original alarm immobiliser then the relay if probably fooked by now. It was wrongly wired by the factory and doesn't like the amount of juice going through it. That's what I have been told.
Mine (99 car) was swapped 18 months ago after strange random happenings and two flat batteries. New system (done in a day by Carl Baker) solved my problem and lightened my wallet by £550, but gave me no further problems, a handy boot plipper on the key, and 60 seconds to start the engine.
Mine (99 car) was swapped 18 months ago after strange random happenings and two flat batteries. New system (done in a day by Carl Baker) solved my problem and lightened my wallet by £550, but gave me no further problems, a handy boot plipper on the key, and 60 seconds to start the engine.
QBee said:
If you still have the original alarm immobiliser then the relay if probably fooked by now. It was wrongly wired by the factory and doesn't like the amount of juice going through it. That's what I have been told.
Mine (99 car) was swapped 18 months ago after strange random happenings and two flat batteries. New system (done in a day by Carl Baker) solved my problem and lightened my wallet by £550, but gave me no further problems, a handy boot plipper on the key, and 60 seconds to start the engine.
Spending £550 with Carl Baker is probably the best thing you can do to improve TVR reliability.Mine (99 car) was swapped 18 months ago after strange random happenings and two flat batteries. New system (done in a day by Carl Baker) solved my problem and lightened my wallet by £550, but gave me no further problems, a handy boot plipper on the key, and 60 seconds to start the engine.
Worth every penny, must get it done myself
Classichim said:
Does Carl Baker live in France?
Is he about as my immobiliser has been showing the same symptoms, 2000 car. Maybe we should get a group FIX arranged!
He comes over regularly and I believe works out of Dan Taylor TVR in north Kent .....so it will mean going south of the river Is he about as my immobiliser has been showing the same symptoms, 2000 car. Maybe we should get a group FIX arranged!
SILICONEKIDOBHP said:
How difficult is it to remove or disconnect all the wiring to the immobiliser , alarm system and have a simple switch fitted in a discreet place ? and maybe connect it to a one of the diodes on the dash with a flasher when switched on..
The problem you've got is the original alarm/immobilliser system is integrated into the loom and also controls the door locking & unlocking functions.90% of the TVR loom is fine as is the Range Rover engine loom TVR spliced their spaghetti to, the problem is the last 10% is appalling.
Unfortunately what it really wants is all ripping out and starting again to solve that last 10%, making a complete brand new loom is difficult enough but fitting it would be a whole different ball game.
Best to stick with what you've got & let Carl Baker replace the alarm system properly, you've then got your TVR wiring to 95% of where it should be and the remaining 5% can be addressed as & when it causes problems.
SILICONEKIDOBHP said:
And cure my hot start !
Sorted mine perfectly with an uprated 2kw starter motor. It was an absolute pig prior with clicks and allsorts of shenanigans.Starts every time now £94 delivered, best money I've spent!!
(Sorry to divert thread OP... hope it gets sorted, I know how annoying it can be...)
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