Discussion
Although not that bad. Although feel the MOT block could have been a bit more understanding seeing as I told him before hand about the handbrake.
So to do list. Side lights flickering. I have LED side lights so can always just swap bulbs. Never drive with side lights. All or nothing.
Said my washers didn't work. Given he never even know where the button was and they do work.
And finally handbrake. Although not sure how I'm going to overcome that one. Might have to adjust the cable above the exhaust head shield which is a pain.
My handbrake mod is still a few months away.
Passed on the emissions which is always an achievement. Thanks Joolz the remap gives a bit more confidence come the dreaded test.
So to do list. Side lights flickering. I have LED side lights so can always just swap bulbs. Never drive with side lights. All or nothing.
Said my washers didn't work. Given he never even know where the button was and they do work.
And finally handbrake. Although not sure how I'm going to overcome that one. Might have to adjust the cable above the exhaust head shield which is a pain.
My handbrake mod is still a few months away.
Passed on the emissions which is always an achievement. Thanks Joolz the remap gives a bit more confidence come the dreaded test.
A properly adjusted handbrake will pass the MOT without any problem. Adjust the wheel adjusters until they both lock the drum with the handbrake off, then back them both off 1 click. Use the adjuster above the diff to adjust the lever position until it is fully on at 3/4 of the way up. If you adjust the lever too low it doesn't have the angle on the cable end to put the brake on hard enough.
I have never adjusted my handbrake and so its now pretty slack. Having never done it before could some please tell me where are all the adjustment points located? Also the diff adjuster mentioned, does this pull the lever up when adjusted or do you first set the handbrake lever and then just ighten everything up from there?
Would be keen to get mine somehwere close to working again!
Cheers
Would be keen to get mine somehwere close to working again!
Cheers
Remove the rear wheels. Release the handbrake lever fully.
Follow the handbrake cables from the rear of the hub as they go towards the middle of the car. There you will see 2 plastic wheels side by side on the cable. Ideally you need to separate them by holding one and unscrewing the other (you need long arms for this!). Then unscrew them both a few turns. This ensures the handbrake is fully released and there is no tension on the cables at the hubs.
Turn the hubs until the access holes in the disc are at 6 o'clock.
Use a torch and looking in the holes you will see a small wheel with spikes on it. Using a thin screwdriver locate it in the troughs of the wheel and lever it up or down to turn this wheel. The wheel is prevented from turning by one of the brake shoe springs so it needs a bit of leverage to make it rotate. The wheel is on a normal thread but they can be fitted either way round so by trial and error, rotate the wheel until it locks up tight. This means the handbrake shoes are now hard against the brake disc. You should not be able to turn the hub.
Now back off the wheel just one 'click' (or one trough). You should be able to turn the hub now. If not then just one more click and it will be fully released.
Now screw up the 2 wheels on the cable. Keep them just apart for now. Check how far the handbrake lever comes up. As said above, you need leverage to work the cables so don't wind the wheels too far as, while the handbrake lever will seem okay with just 3 clicks, it will not give the force needed to apply the shoes hard enough. Aim for 5 or 6 clicks (or more if necessary) as you lift the handbrake lever to give the most leverage and so apply the maximum force.
Once happy with the setting screw the 2 wheels together to lock them in place.
Follow the handbrake cables from the rear of the hub as they go towards the middle of the car. There you will see 2 plastic wheels side by side on the cable. Ideally you need to separate them by holding one and unscrewing the other (you need long arms for this!). Then unscrew them both a few turns. This ensures the handbrake is fully released and there is no tension on the cables at the hubs.
Turn the hubs until the access holes in the disc are at 6 o'clock.
Use a torch and looking in the holes you will see a small wheel with spikes on it. Using a thin screwdriver locate it in the troughs of the wheel and lever it up or down to turn this wheel. The wheel is prevented from turning by one of the brake shoe springs so it needs a bit of leverage to make it rotate. The wheel is on a normal thread but they can be fitted either way round so by trial and error, rotate the wheel until it locks up tight. This means the handbrake shoes are now hard against the brake disc. You should not be able to turn the hub.
Now back off the wheel just one 'click' (or one trough). You should be able to turn the hub now. If not then just one more click and it will be fully released.
Now screw up the 2 wheels on the cable. Keep them just apart for now. Check how far the handbrake lever comes up. As said above, you need leverage to work the cables so don't wind the wheels too far as, while the handbrake lever will seem okay with just 3 clicks, it will not give the force needed to apply the shoes hard enough. Aim for 5 or 6 clicks (or more if necessary) as you lift the handbrake lever to give the most leverage and so apply the maximum force.
Once happy with the setting screw the 2 wheels together to lock them in place.
Edited by N7GTX on Friday 18th July 08:02
Edited by N7GTX on Friday 18th July 08:06
Whilst you are this far stripped.
I found that after adjusting the handbrake it would last a couple of weeks. I sorted it twice till I realised that the two plastic adjustment nuts had worn threads so I adjusted them to correct and locked them together. I then opened a jubilee clip, put it round the threads and butted upto the plastic nuts, and tightened. This prevented the plastic nuts from slideing back along the threads. It has lasted 6 months so far now.
This can be done without stripping the backend but it's a bit awkward.
Hope this helps
M
I found that after adjusting the handbrake it would last a couple of weeks. I sorted it twice till I realised that the two plastic adjustment nuts had worn threads so I adjusted them to correct and locked them together. I then opened a jubilee clip, put it round the threads and butted upto the plastic nuts, and tightened. This prevented the plastic nuts from slideing back along the threads. It has lasted 6 months so far now.
This can be done without stripping the backend but it's a bit awkward.
Hope this helps
M
well according to the MOT tester the handbrake is now worse. from 10 percent down to 7, i can't see how seeing as the car would roll as soon as i take it out of gear on my drive, now the hand brake holds. it. so how have i made it work. I bet he's not even pulling the handbrake up enough
As Darren says, LSD cars should not be on the rollers for the brake test. It could damage the diff but more likely throw the car out of the rollers as the diff locks up. Could damage your car or hurt someone. They should be tested with a decelerometer on the road.
But, some testers will run both rollers together and apply the handbrake. The tester on mine last year did this and it got 15%. Just
Not correct by the testers' manual of course.
But, some testers will run both rollers together and apply the handbrake. The tester on mine last year did this and it got 15%. Just
Not correct by the testers' manual of course.
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