Detailing and pure water systems
Discussion
I am considering a DI resin water filter for use on final rinse. There are a few on the market but they use the same DI resin bed process. I am particularly interested in one to avoid repeated bright grille water marks and also to maybe avoid use of a drying towel.
My concern is that some say 0 tds water is agressive and so I am not sure how it may be safe for wax finish or on disks/hubs. Would it be any worse than my tap water?
Has anyone got one or tried one?
Also I wonder if Francis has a view on air drying following pure water rinse.
Thanks
Mark
My concern is that some say 0 tds water is agressive and so I am not sure how it may be safe for wax finish or on disks/hubs. Would it be any worse than my tap water?
Has anyone got one or tried one?
Also I wonder if Francis has a view on air drying following pure water rinse.
Thanks
Mark
DI water or ultrapure water is slightly acidic, typically a pH around 6.0, so, left for a prolonged period on the same area of unprotected metal, corrosion will occur. It's the reason copper isn't used in ringmains for RO or DI water, that said, I wouldn't expect to see a problem with paintwork if the car was dried off with a microfibre towel as normal.
Personally, I think it is a bit OTT, if you manually dry it off before it has chance to naturally do so you'll have no problems. If you have soft water where you are out of the tap, you probably shouldn't worry about it.
All IMHO
Personally, I think it is a bit OTT, if you manually dry it off before it has chance to naturally do so you'll have no problems. If you have soft water where you are out of the tap, you probably shouldn't worry about it.
All IMHO

Thanks guys
Thinking about it, once dry surely there is nothing left to be corrosive at ph6. So for the time it takes to dry then hubs etc would be exposed to PH 6 . I wonder if this is any worse than rainwater.
I was hoping to maybe avoid completely toweling dry but would probably do windows and really hope the grille would look better. I would polish grille then try and put some protective wax on it to solve water mark problem.
Mark
Thinking about it, once dry surely there is nothing left to be corrosive at ph6. So for the time it takes to dry then hubs etc would be exposed to PH 6 . I wonder if this is any worse than rainwater.
I was hoping to maybe avoid completely toweling dry but would probably do windows and really hope the grille would look better. I would polish grille then try and put some protective wax on it to solve water mark problem.
Mark
Thanks guys
Thinking about it, once dry surely there is nothing left to be corrosive at ph6. So for the time it takes to dry then hubs etc would be exposed to PH 6 . I wonder if this is any worse than rainwater.
I was hoping to maybe avoid completely toweling dry but would probably do windows and really hope the grille would look better. I would polish grille then try and put some protective wax on it to solve water mark problem.
Mark
Thinking about it, once dry surely there is nothing left to be corrosive at ph6. So for the time it takes to dry then hubs etc would be exposed to PH 6 . I wonder if this is any worse than rainwater.
I was hoping to maybe avoid completely toweling dry but would probably do windows and really hope the grille would look better. I would polish grille then try and put some protective wax on it to solve water mark problem.
Mark
Gmw76 said:
Thinking about it, once dry surely there is nothing left to be corrosive at ph6. So for the time it takes to dry then hubs etc would be exposed to PH 6 . I wonder if this is any worse than rainwater?
Mark
You are correct, it would be minimal exposure time, so of negligible concern, you did ask about the aggressive nature of DI water in your OP though, so I thought I would comment. In reality, you would pay extra (how much, I have no idea) for DI resin cartridges and spend a similar amount of time drying as with mains/soft water, a bit unnecessary for me, but, its better than hard water left to dry if softened water is unavailable. Mark
I have used a DI system (CR Spotless) for years and frequently leave the water to dry by itself, with no ill effects. If I want to drive the car immediately after washing, I use a leaf blower to dry it off. I have not towel dried a car in years. The only time my paint is touched is during the actual washing. Any contact with the clear coat will cause some degree of micro marring, no matter how careful your technique. Why touch your paint if you don't have to?
I've just bought one of these ....
http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/race-glaze/400-litre-0p...
The unit is refillable and, in my opinion, better than the sealed units that are often sold for the same purpose.
I was a little sceptical before purchase but having used it I am extremely happy. We live in a very hard water area and water staining was the norm. Used this to do a final rinse with the jet wash, left the car to dry on it's own and the results were spotless.
http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/race-glaze/400-litre-0p...
The unit is refillable and, in my opinion, better than the sealed units that are often sold for the same purpose.
I was a little sceptical before purchase but having used it I am extremely happy. We live in a very hard water area and water staining was the norm. Used this to do a final rinse with the jet wash, left the car to dry on it's own and the results were spotless.
I agree with Steve,
Great Product especially in and around our Area where the waters hard and particularly wet……..
Had a word with Mark the boss from the previously mentioned link and he's agreed to bring some along to Burghley for a demo and your closer inspection.
Check them out as they seem to work very well imo.
Great Product especially in and around our Area where the waters hard and particularly wet……..

Had a word with Mark the boss from the previously mentioned link and he's agreed to bring some along to Burghley for a demo and your closer inspection.
Check them out as they seem to work very well imo.
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