Discussion
Hi guys
Bit of a convoluted one but interested in the answer here.
Firstly I'm very aware that an MOT subject to the testers opinion so results vary.
I took my car for an MOT last week and it failed on its rear coil spring, nothing else. This is a local council garage with no repairs department so no incentive to fail.
I replaced the springs on Friday evening and as the original testing station is closed in Saturdays and I needed to get it through before it ran out, I took it for a full test elsewhere.
Suddenly now it's needs hundreds of pounds worth of work doing, which the garage can conveniently carry out of course and sadly it's failed! I collected the car and refused to let them work on it, I don't trust them.
So, main question is, if I take it for a retest at the council place this week, which MOT is then valid.
Second question is, is MOT station number 2 worth reporting to vosa?
Bit of a convoluted one but interested in the answer here.
Firstly I'm very aware that an MOT subject to the testers opinion so results vary.
I took my car for an MOT last week and it failed on its rear coil spring, nothing else. This is a local council garage with no repairs department so no incentive to fail.
I replaced the springs on Friday evening and as the original testing station is closed in Saturdays and I needed to get it through before it ran out, I took it for a full test elsewhere.
Suddenly now it's needs hundreds of pounds worth of work doing, which the garage can conveniently carry out of course and sadly it's failed! I collected the car and refused to let them work on it, I don't trust them.
So, main question is, if I take it for a retest at the council place this week, which MOT is then valid.
Second question is, is MOT station number 2 worth reporting to vosa?
t400ble said:
What extra work did they find?
Did they know the council garage had tested it?
No I didn't tell them, it couldn't have come up in the system or they'd have not been so daft. Did they know the council garage had tested it?
My discs and pads are 80% worn (they are 3k miles old). It needs some welding and apparently a shock absorber is leaking.
The estimate they have me was in excess of £300
eltax91 said:
Firstly I'm very aware that an MOT subject to the testers opinion so results vary.
...and that's the important bit.eltax91 said:
Suddenly now it's needs hundreds of pounds worth of work doing
What have they failed it on?eltax91 said:
So, main question is, if I take it for a retest at the council place this week, which MOT is then valid.
So long as there's a current MOT, that's all that is needed to be "valid".[quote]Second question is, is MOT station number 2 worth reporting to vosa?
Sump said:
Take it to council, let it pass and that will be valid.
I think VOSA are more concerned with non fit cars being passed.
You will have to tell the council place what happened because I don't think they will be able to log on to their fail now. Ask them to do a full test, you may have to pay again thoughI think VOSA are more concerned with non fit cars being passed.
Does this still apply to you?
"Bringing your vehicle back within 10 working days
If the vehicle is removed from the test centre for repair and returned within 10 working days following the day it originally failed, then only a partial retest is needed. In this case a partial retest fee may be charged."
https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/retests
I would rate an MoT from a council test centre far higher than one from a general garage. They have no vested interest in pass or fail & are generally strict but fair. The test centre I use know that there is no work in it for them for any of our vehicles so fail items or advisories are genuine. Yes, I have had a fails from them, invariably something I've missed.
"Bringing your vehicle back within 10 working days
If the vehicle is removed from the test centre for repair and returned within 10 working days following the day it originally failed, then only a partial retest is needed. In this case a partial retest fee may be charged."
https://www.gov.uk/getting-an-mot/retests
I would rate an MoT from a council test centre far higher than one from a general garage. They have no vested interest in pass or fail & are generally strict but fair. The test centre I use know that there is no work in it for them for any of our vehicles so fail items or advisories are genuine. Yes, I have had a fails from them, invariably something I've missed.
I think that the second garage figured that you was trying your luck on getting your car MOTd through them after it had failed at the council one and decided to take their chances with a quote of spurious work. They should have been able to see on the computer that it had recently failed one, where it was and what it failed on.
You can even look yourself if you follow the instruction on here.. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history-vehicle
You can even look yourself if you follow the instruction on here.. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history-vehicle
ADEuk said:
Sump said:
Take it to council, let it pass and that will be valid.
I think VOSA are more concerned with non fit cars being passed.
You will have to tell the council place what happened because I don't think they will be able to log on to their fail now. Ask them to do a full test, you may have to pay again thoughI think VOSA are more concerned with non fit cars being passed.
They will be able to log on as they use the test number as well as the vehicle reg and vin number for a retest, OP, take it for a retest and say nothing.
PurpleMoonlight said:
Largely down to your impatience though really.
No not really. More my bad organisation in not taking it in sooner. Mot ran out today, hence taking it in on Saturday hoping to be able to just use it. As it is I'm now not able to use it until I can get it booked into the council one for a retest. eltax91 said:
No I didn't tell them, it couldn't have come up in the system or they'd have not been so daft.
My discs and pads are 80% worn (they are 3k miles old). It needs some welding and apparently a shock absorber is leaking.
The estimate they have me was in excess of £300
Discs & pads are not a fail even at 80% worn (pads have to be at 1.6mm or less to fail) leak on the shock depends how bad it is but needs to be pretty bad to warrant a failMy discs and pads are 80% worn (they are 3k miles old). It needs some welding and apparently a shock absorber is leaking.
The estimate they have me was in excess of £300
Welding is the sticky one as a hole is just that & therefore a fail this can be appealed up to 3 months from the date of test
Just a point to make is that in a recent survey by vosa council stations have a much higher fail rate than private stations
Also as an mot station you can't see if the car was tested unless it's at your own station or you have the logbook
s p a c e m a n said:
I think that the second garage figured that you was trying your luck on getting your car MOTd through them after it had failed at the council one and decided to take their chances with a quote of spurious work. They should have been able to see on the computer that it had recently failed one, where it was and what it failed on.
You can even look yourself if you follow the instruction on here.. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history-vehicle
The tester can't see any previous MOT history when logging on a test. He could, if he had the test or V5C numbers print out duplicate test documents for a test not carried out at his testing station, but why would he do that?You can even look yourself if you follow the instruction on here.. https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history-vehicle
If the pads have at least 1.5mm of friction material left on them - they're OK for a MOT, discs have to be virtually falling apart, for the welding, there needs to be weakness within 30cm of a suspension, steering, seat belt mounting area to fail. If all these check out OK, report the second testing station to the DVSA (formerly VOSA).
mcford said:
If the pads have at least 1.5mm of friction material left on them - they're OK for a MOT, discs have to be virtually falling apart
Unless they can clearly see the pad and disc thickness without removing a wheel, it's utterly irrelevant. The stopping ability is the only meaningful thing tested.As for the damper leak, all that's permitted on the test is a light misting. Anything more is sign of a shagged damper. Unfortunately, they aren't actually tested for efficacy in the mainland UK MOT, unlike NI and much of the rest of the EU.
mcford said:
for the welding, there needs to be weakness within 30cm of a suspension, steering, seat belt mounting area to fail.
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