New Owner - Suspension Questions
Discussion
Hello all,
New TVR S3c (I believe) owner here.
I think my front suspension needs some work, firstly, it's lower on the drivers side compared to passenger by about 15mm (between top of wheel and arch) and both sides have hardly any movement and is really stiff, not very comfortable on bumpy roads at all, there is plenty of movement in the rears. Also the bonnet doesn't open without fouling the ground unless jacked up slightly.
The existing springs and dampers don't look new and I'm quite prepared to change the lot (including the rear) just wondering what people could recommend, the Gaz Gold Pro kits fit my price bracket. I notice on the wiki that people have the GGPro kits but with different spring rates, is this something chosen when ordering? I have no idea where to go with that, I'm after something sitting in the middle of comfort and handling, being able to open the bonnet and the ability to conquer speed humps slightly higher than 50mm.
Whilst not a complete novice with the spanners, this kind of setup is completely new to me (the last time I did anything like this was on a Saxo VTS), will I need any special tools to fit springs to dampers or do the kits come assembled? Can the current ones be removed in one piece? Any other special tools required? (I have the usual socketry, jacks, axle stands, torque wrench).
Are there any other components that may be better replaced whilst the job is being done? Any common stumbling blocks? Do the kits come with new nuts and bolts, is it worth replacing them if not?
I'm guessing I will need tracking etc setting up after the new kit is fitted, can anywhere do this or is it advised to use a specialist?
Sorry for so many questions.
Thanks in advance.
Lawrie
New TVR S3c (I believe) owner here.
I think my front suspension needs some work, firstly, it's lower on the drivers side compared to passenger by about 15mm (between top of wheel and arch) and both sides have hardly any movement and is really stiff, not very comfortable on bumpy roads at all, there is plenty of movement in the rears. Also the bonnet doesn't open without fouling the ground unless jacked up slightly.
The existing springs and dampers don't look new and I'm quite prepared to change the lot (including the rear) just wondering what people could recommend, the Gaz Gold Pro kits fit my price bracket. I notice on the wiki that people have the GGPro kits but with different spring rates, is this something chosen when ordering? I have no idea where to go with that, I'm after something sitting in the middle of comfort and handling, being able to open the bonnet and the ability to conquer speed humps slightly higher than 50mm.
Whilst not a complete novice with the spanners, this kind of setup is completely new to me (the last time I did anything like this was on a Saxo VTS), will I need any special tools to fit springs to dampers or do the kits come assembled? Can the current ones be removed in one piece? Any other special tools required? (I have the usual socketry, jacks, axle stands, torque wrench).
Are there any other components that may be better replaced whilst the job is being done? Any common stumbling blocks? Do the kits come with new nuts and bolts, is it worth replacing them if not?
I'm guessing I will need tracking etc setting up after the new kit is fitted, can anywhere do this or is it advised to use a specialist?
Sorry for so many questions.
Thanks in advance.
Lawrie
Dampers should come pre-assembled with springs.
No special tools required, bolts are 1/2" which is 3/4" AF spanner but 19mm will be fine if you've only got that new fangled metric stuff.
Won't come with bolts, only you can see what condition they're in. "Nyloc" nuts should be replaced.
Changing dampers alone will not effect steering geometry, toe-in, camber etc.
Bonnet hinges can bend, sag and break, take comparative height measurements from the ground to the chassis.
No special tools required, bolts are 1/2" which is 3/4" AF spanner but 19mm will be fine if you've only got that new fangled metric stuff.
Won't come with bolts, only you can see what condition they're in. "Nyloc" nuts should be replaced.
Changing dampers alone will not effect steering geometry, toe-in, camber etc.
Bonnet hinges can bend, sag and break, take comparative height measurements from the ground to the chassis.
Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 5th August 19:01
What have you got at the moment? A couple of us have had good results recently with simply having the OE shock absorbers refurbished. Much cheaper than a full replacement and saves mucking about with spring rates and ride heights. Although if you're dropping in one corner it might mean your springs have reached the end of their useful life anyway.
My experience here
My experience here
Hi Lawrie,
Welcome to S ownership, and welcome to this friendly forum.
Plenty of help & advice available on here, and a good scource of step by step guidance on the members blogs and S Series General Info. See "Useful Links" at the top of the title page.
Also you can use the search, just click on the "search" at top right of the page, type in S Series suspension ( for example ) and you should get a load of choices to peruse.
As stated, the coilover assemblies are quite simple to remove in one piece, no special tools needed, just jack up the car so the weight is off the suspension, remove the wheel & undo the top & bottom nuts & bolts. As long as they aren't seized in the bushes centre tubes, they should pull straight out.
The GGPros are quite popular, Gaz Classic are a cheaper option & perfect for our needs.
You choose your spring rates ( see the susp. Wiki ) and they come fully built up ready to fit.
Then you have all the fun of setting the ride heights and damping rates. ( The special C spanner should come with the set. )
Measure the ride heights at the outer corner of each outrigger to ground level, but choose level ground & put a sack or two of spuds in the driver's seat to simulate driver weight
When I replaced my shockers, I also changed all the tired front wishbone & ARB bushes for polyurethane ones, expensive, but worth it in my view, and also gives a few mm extra ground clearance.
Also if you have exhaust ground clearance problems, check that your engine mounts haven't sagged. There should be about 15 - 20mm gap between your anti-roll bar & the engine sump.
It has been known for the sump to chafe through due to this.
Hope this helps, & hope to see you at an event soon. You'd enjoy KEVTVR's Peak District Run next Saturday.
Where in Derbyshire are you? I'm just over the border in Hazel Grove.
All the best,
Glen.
P.S. Don't forget to get yourself onto the Owners List on here.
Welcome to S ownership, and welcome to this friendly forum.
Plenty of help & advice available on here, and a good scource of step by step guidance on the members blogs and S Series General Info. See "Useful Links" at the top of the title page.
Also you can use the search, just click on the "search" at top right of the page, type in S Series suspension ( for example ) and you should get a load of choices to peruse.
As stated, the coilover assemblies are quite simple to remove in one piece, no special tools needed, just jack up the car so the weight is off the suspension, remove the wheel & undo the top & bottom nuts & bolts. As long as they aren't seized in the bushes centre tubes, they should pull straight out.
The GGPros are quite popular, Gaz Classic are a cheaper option & perfect for our needs.
You choose your spring rates ( see the susp. Wiki ) and they come fully built up ready to fit.
Then you have all the fun of setting the ride heights and damping rates. ( The special C spanner should come with the set. )
Measure the ride heights at the outer corner of each outrigger to ground level, but choose level ground & put a sack or two of spuds in the driver's seat to simulate driver weight
When I replaced my shockers, I also changed all the tired front wishbone & ARB bushes for polyurethane ones, expensive, but worth it in my view, and also gives a few mm extra ground clearance.
Also if you have exhaust ground clearance problems, check that your engine mounts haven't sagged. There should be about 15 - 20mm gap between your anti-roll bar & the engine sump.
It has been known for the sump to chafe through due to this.
Hope this helps, & hope to see you at an event soon. You'd enjoy KEVTVR's Peak District Run next Saturday.
Where in Derbyshire are you? I'm just over the border in Hazel Grove.
All the best,
Glen.
P.S. Don't forget to get yourself onto the Owners List on here.
Edited by glenrobbo on Wednesday 6th August 11:56
Thanks for the replies, you make it sound so easy 
Phillpot, it's had stainless bonnet hinges fitted, measurement from ground to drivers side front corner of outrigger measures 155mm, garage is a bit tight so I cant get to passenger side without getting it out, will measure that at the weekend. What is the setup in the picture?
v8s4me, I'm not quite sure I'll try to attach some pictures below, they are adjustable. I can't see anything relating to them in the history file that came with the car.
Glenrobbo, thanks, I did have a quick browse but couldn't find anything specific to replacing just the suspension. I'll look at the bushes, I know how much of a difference they made on my saxo back in the day, are there any alternatives to powerflex for the s series? I should get chance for a closer look at engine mounts this weekend but I know the gearbox mount has recently been changed. I'm near Ilkeston, hoping to get to the East Mids tvrcc meet on Sunday if anyones going? I'll look into the Peak District run but usually working on Saturdays.
Maybe some of you know the car?
Thanks
Lawrie
Phillpot, it's had stainless bonnet hinges fitted, measurement from ground to drivers side front corner of outrigger measures 155mm, garage is a bit tight so I cant get to passenger side without getting it out, will measure that at the weekend. What is the setup in the picture?
v8s4me, I'm not quite sure I'll try to attach some pictures below, they are adjustable. I can't see anything relating to them in the history file that came with the car.
Glenrobbo, thanks, I did have a quick browse but couldn't find anything specific to replacing just the suspension. I'll look at the bushes, I know how much of a difference they made on my saxo back in the day, are there any alternatives to powerflex for the s series? I should get chance for a closer look at engine mounts this weekend but I know the gearbox mount has recently been changed. I'm near Ilkeston, hoping to get to the East Mids tvrcc meet on Sunday if anyones going? I'll look into the Peak District run but usually working on Saturdays.
Maybe some of you know the car?
Thanks
Lawrie
They look like after-market ones of some type which means you might be able to get them re-built at a reasonable cost depending on which make they are. Of course you'll need to "suspend" 
your car with something else while they are away being done, but I'm sure someone will lend you a spare set if you want to go down that road. If you're going to SCH you can borrow my old set. If fact, you could probably get a few S-Boys to swap them over for you while you get the teas in! 
your car with something else while they are away being done, but I'm sure someone will lend you a spare set if you want to go down that road. If you're going to SCH you can borrow my old set. If fact, you could probably get a few S-Boys to swap them over for you while you get the teas in! Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff