Steering rack dismantling questions
Steering rack dismantling questions
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GT6k

Original Poster:

942 posts

185 months

Wednesday 6th August 2014
quotequote all
In the process of fixing the steering column UJs I have been looking at the pinion seal and the inner track rod ends and have a couple of qiestions.

The inner track rod end is a cup apparently screwed on to the end of the rack - is it just done up really tight or am I missing something ?
Other cars i have worked on had locknuts and tabs

My car has a split 4mm lockstop on the outer end and a none split 10mm lockstop inboad of this. As I am back to 17" wheels rather then the 18" I am going to remove the extra lockstop which I suspect is the 4mm split one (so I don't have to dismantle the inner joint) is this correct ?

Finally I want to renew the pinion top seal and it isn't leaking enough for me to want to take the rack out. There appears to be a circlip then a washer can i then just prise out the seal or will the pinion have to come out ?

TvrJohn

1,068 posts

278 months

Thursday 7th August 2014
quotequote all
The pinion drive assembly comes out quite easily, I did mine with the rack still in.

Had changed by lip seal as you intend to do, but it leaked again, so I sent it off for a full refurb for £85, clinto something, I've forgotten

GT6k

Original Poster:

942 posts

185 months

Thursday 7th August 2014
quotequote all
Thanks, you have helped me make up my mind to not do the seal now but take the rack out in the winter and get it refurbed.

Tanguero

4,535 posts

224 months

Thursday 7th August 2014
quotequote all
You can change the pinion seal without removing the pinion. Just remove the circlip, prise out the old seal and push in the new one. It was trivial with the rack out of the car, but I am not sure how it would be for access with it in the car.

GT6k

Original Poster:

942 posts

185 months

Friday 8th August 2014
quotequote all
Having had quite a serious go at it last night I would say that while it might be just possible to get the seal out with the rack in place it is probably not worth the loss of knuckle skin compared to taking the rack out. As the ball joints on the end of the rack look a bit past their best I think the rack probably needs a refurb anyway.


ukkid35

6,383 posts

196 months

Friday 8th August 2014
quotequote all
GT6k said:
The inner track rod end is a cup apparently screwed on to the end of the rack - is it just done up really tight or am I missing something ?
Other cars i have worked on had locknuts and tabs
It is done up tight, with thread lock. You are supposed to counterhold to undo, but if someone could explain to me how the hell that works - there is nothing to counter hold - I'd be intrigued.

GT6k

Original Poster:

942 posts

185 months

Friday 8th August 2014
quotequote all
I tried undoing the inner joint but it was so tight the rack was starting to bend and I didn't want to break anything. As the pinion leak is only slight i think i will leave it until later in the year then get the rack refurbed.

ukkid35

6,383 posts

196 months

Friday 8th August 2014
quotequote all
GT6k said:
I tried undoing the inner joint but it was so tight the rack was starting to bend and I didn't want to break anything. As the pinion leak is only slight i think i will leave it until later in the year then get the rack refurbed.
Good luck getting it out of the car without removing the track rods first.

Tanguero

4,535 posts

224 months

Friday 8th August 2014
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
GT6k said:
I tried undoing the inner joint but it was so tight the rack was starting to bend and I didn't want to break anything. As the pinion leak is only slight i think i will leave it until later in the year then get the rack refurbed.
Good luck getting it out of the car without removing the track rods first.
You will need more than luck with that unless you have taken the body off.

GT6k

Original Poster:

942 posts

185 months

Friday 8th August 2014
quotequote all
It's not that bad I can get the outer joints to separate but not the inner ones.

N7GTX

8,263 posts

166 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
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No need to remove the rods when removing the rack from the car. Remove the track rod ends and the transfer pipes - the copper ones - and then guide the rack fully towards the passenger side rotating it slightly as you go. Now turn the pinion to force the passenger side track rod fully to the nearside of the car. You should be able to move the track rod on the driver's side up and by careful and patient movement, able to get the rack out over the driver's side wing. Use thick protection here to protect the wings.
I did mine last month. It was a slow process on my own but very do-able. The longest part was removing all the water pipes to get good access and clearance.

Tanguero

4,535 posts

224 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
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On mine I found that I couldn't get the one of the transfer pipes off with the rack in the chassis - and that was just working on the chassis with as much access as you can have.

GT6k

Original Poster:

942 posts

185 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
quotequote all
I think I shall be giving the car to that nice Mr Garner to do this.

ukkid35

6,383 posts

196 months

Saturday 9th August 2014
quotequote all
The flexi pipes make it far far easier to remove the rack.