Body Captive Mounts - Are They Made of Cheese?
Discussion
Hi all,
after spending a good few months trying to fix all the issues with my yellow wedge I've come to the conclusion that it'll be much quicker and easier to wip the body off and do it properly. I am also fed up of bits of powder coat in the eye whilst under her.
I've disconnected everything ready for the lift, just the body to chassis bolts remaining. The first bolt at the base of the B-Pillar I have tried was well and truly ceased, at some point they have been painted over as well which doesn't help.
On applying a some force the captive nut has pulled free from the fibreglass. I suspect the rest will do the same, any advice on trying to free them or repairing the aftermath?
Thanking you all in advance.
after spending a good few months trying to fix all the issues with my yellow wedge I've come to the conclusion that it'll be much quicker and easier to wip the body off and do it properly. I am also fed up of bits of powder coat in the eye whilst under her.
I've disconnected everything ready for the lift, just the body to chassis bolts remaining. The first bolt at the base of the B-Pillar I have tried was well and truly ceased, at some point they have been painted over as well which doesn't help.
On applying a some force the captive nut has pulled free from the fibreglass. I suspect the rest will do the same, any advice on trying to free them or repairing the aftermath?
Thanking you all in advance.
Agreed, none of the body to chassis fixings have been captive on any Wedge I've ever worked on: if they were it'd be difficult to accurately drill holes in the chassis that would line up with them!
At the bottom of the B post, two bolts pass through the sill plate, bodyshell and another steel plate that's welded to the bottom of the reinforcing tube that carries the seatbelt reel and door lock striker. The bottom of that post is usually the first bit to corrode away and my guess is that's what you can hear crunching as you turn the bolt.
The few glassed-in fittings that are used are for the bonnet and headlamp pod pivots.
At the bottom of the B post, two bolts pass through the sill plate, bodyshell and another steel plate that's welded to the bottom of the reinforcing tube that carries the seatbelt reel and door lock striker. The bottom of that post is usually the first bit to corrode away and my guess is that's what you can hear crunching as you turn the bolt.
The few glassed-in fittings that are used are for the bonnet and headlamp pod pivots.
Ah that would make sense, I didn't think to look down inside, just from underneath. I guess the plate is shot from the crunching noises and the spinning bolt!
I have the same issue with the bonnet but can probably live with that.
Many thanks, moral of the story, have a proper look/think before you get the big spanner out.
I have the same issue with the bonnet but can probably live with that.
Many thanks, moral of the story, have a proper look/think before you get the big spanner out.
hallsie said:
The door mounting bolts (4 off for each door) also have brass inserts on mine which are a complete b
d to get out. the steel bar inside the car is completely shot, so the need to be double nutted from the outside and wound in because the bolt heads are rusted and rounded of.
Stu
Interesting; do you mean brass inserts where the bolts pass through the GRP?d to get out. the steel bar inside the car is completely shot, so the need to be double nutted from the outside and wound in because the bolt heads are rusted and rounded of.Stu
Wedg1e said:
hallsie said:
The door mounting bolts (4 off for each door) also have brass inserts on mine which are a complete bd to get out. the steel bar inside the car is completely shot, so the need to be double nutted from the outside and wound in because the bolt heads are rusted and rounded of.
Stu
Interesting; do you mean brass inserts where the bolts pass through the GRP?d to get out. the steel bar inside the car is completely shot, so the need to be double nutted from the outside and wound in because the bolt heads are rusted and rounded of.Stu
One bolt sheared off so Ill have to drill it.
There are several features Ive found on this FHC whilst stripping it down that are seemingly 'unique' , but Ill catalogue it all when Ive finished.
I must say though, everything that Ive removed has been in excellent condition, from the gearbox mounts and remote mounts, to the diff mounts and trailing arm pins and bushes, even the engine bay bits and pieces came apart with the minimum of fuss, even the top front ball joints were original and still in near new condition, although I removed them so I could powdercoat the swinging arm and will replace with new.
Stu
Stu
hallsie said:
Yeah, Ill take some photos tonight and post them.
One bolt sheared off so Ill have to drill it.
There are several features Ive found on this FHC whilst stripping it down that are seemingly 'unique' , but Ill catalogue it all when Ive finished.
I must say though, everything that Ive removed has been in excellent condition, from the gearbox mounts and remote mounts, to the diff mounts and trailing arm pins and bushes, even the engine bay bits and pieces came apart with the minimum of fuss, even the top front ball joints were original and still in near new condition, although I removed them so I could powdercoat the swinging arm and will replace with new.
Stu
Stu
Aye, I think both of my top balljoints are still rivetted - so suspect 1987 originals!One bolt sheared off so Ill have to drill it.
There are several features Ive found on this FHC whilst stripping it down that are seemingly 'unique' , but Ill catalogue it all when Ive finished.
I must say though, everything that Ive removed has been in excellent condition, from the gearbox mounts and remote mounts, to the diff mounts and trailing arm pins and bushes, even the engine bay bits and pieces came apart with the minimum of fuss, even the top front ball joints were original and still in near new condition, although I removed them so I could powdercoat the swinging arm and will replace with new.
Stu
Stu
Well problem solved, most nuts/retaining plates were shot. 2 Sunday afternoon and a couple of hours this evening using the http://www.theseacpages.co.uk/bodyoff.aspx as a rough guide and were separated...
Not bad working on my own I thought.
Not bad working on my own I thought.
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