Engine Oils

[octanetorque]

This has been something of a bugbear for me with no clear simple advice.

Classic Crossflow engine in modern motorway, and trackday use. High performance 20w50 or Mobil/Castrol/Shell 10w40?

The debate continues...

Saw an article this morning which clearly spelled out the differences and benefits; I won't tell you what you should be using (I'm sure an "expert" will soon come along and tell us all in the true tradition of the internet...) but it helps arm you with knowledge to made an informed decision - particularly helpful is the note of moving from classic oils to modern semi-synth & zinc levels & APIs & other interesting things.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXqkOZAkXZw

[Adrian@]

BUT there are only 2 oils.... GTX classic and VR1.
I didn't want to waste 35 mins...I'll get my coat.
Adrian@

Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 12th August 16:16

[prideaux]

Adrian@ said:

BUT there only 2 oils.... GTX classic and VR1.
I didn't want to waste 35 mins...I'll get my coat.
Adrian@

Not watched either for same reason however i may change i currently get Millers Classic sport 20/50 in 25lt drums however thinking of changing over http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ...

As looking for an oil that gives better oil pressure when hot so may try there 20/60 or 25/70 as it claims to remain thicker when hot i suspect some armchair experts that hardly use there cars will have a reason to contradict this choice but in time i will report back
A

Edited by prideaux on Tuesday 12th August 15:07

[prideaux]

heightswitch said:

prideaux said:

Not watched either for same reason however i may change i currently get Millers Classic sport 20/50 in 25lt drums however thinking of changing over http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ...

As looking for an oil that gives better oil pressure when hot so may try there 20/60 or 25/70 as it claims to remain thicker when hot i suspect some armchair experts that hardly use there cars will have a reason to contradict this choice but in time i will report back
A

Edited by prideaux on Tuesday 12th August 15:07

your engine must burn a lot of oil or have an exceptionally big sump if you need 25 litre drums Andrew?

I would advocate looking to reduce your oil temps rather than use an incorrect oil. I am old fashioned and like valvoline VR1. I also like Millers. they employ a good chemist. I also run a zinc additive these days with the race engine because of its infrequent use. nothing wrong with spending a fortune either and buying a fully synthetic blend at 20-50 after an old engine has been run in.

oil pressure is a characteristic of bearing clearances and wear. using thicker oil than that which is specified is a temporary way of prolonging a knackered engines life. it won't do much for a recently re-built engine or one in good condition though.

Generally on a road driven car run for a limited amount of miles any basic oil is better than no oil. The old crossflow ran reliably on old mineral oils in the day. the risk is using a poor mineral oil which have little in the way of Zinc which is needed to prolong cam and lifter life, especially pre break in.

A bigger consideration these days is the oilfilter used especially if trying to experiment with thick oils.

I generally buy through Opie oils these days. They always give good advice.

Neil 5 Classics to run if i included the Taimar 25 LT gets used up especially if you do yearly changes regardless of milage i tried your VR1 hated it and you can have the spare 5LT in the garage if you want it save me putting on e bay.
I guessed you would pick up on this as its rather clear if i said black you would say white if i said up you would say down however if you took the time to read up on there oils you would see they are adding zink as well and a chemical to help the oil stick when engine is not in use Oh and a rust inhibitor that may be useful for you my oil temp is fine as is the oil pressure i have other reasons that i would like to change to a higher viscosity oil for but we all do what we think is right often like yourself based on the info you goggle on the web
A

[prideaux]

heightswitch said:

How did the millers taste Andrew? LIKE NECTAR
I am interested to know why you want to use a thicker viscosity oil and what benefits you are looking for?

as for google not sure what you are getting at I have ran VR1 for years. Always have and as long as it is made always will. I don't particularly care what oil anyone else buys! I GUESS NOT

Do you know which chemicals Penrite are adding to make the oil sticky and prevent rust? Have you used it before? NO AND NO

Edited by heightswitch on Tuesday 12th August 18:15

[cjb44]

I would endorse Millers CFS 15w/60w and a Wix filter. Wix filters are I believe the best available, they are made in their own factory and so quality is assured, they also concentrate on flow by having more holes for the oil to pass through. Millers CFS is used in my racing 289 with excellent results.