Best way to get this bolt out????
Discussion
Brand new top quality drill bit and away you go with water in an old washing up liquid bottle to squirt on it from time to time to keep it cool. I would start with a drill bit about half the size that you need and then go up from there. If you have a good engineering supplies place near you then you can buy left handed drill bits (I have quite a few) and then with a cordless you can run it in reverse, the idea is that if it grips at all as it cuts through then sometimes that's all it takes to wind the remnants of the bolt out.
adam quantrill said:
Either your drill bits aren't sharp enough or it's stainless?
You can't use heat it will ruin the fiberglass.
Can you get at the other side? If there is any bolt sticking through...
Can't get to the other side :-( You can't use heat it will ruin the fiberglass.
Can you get at the other side? If there is any bolt sticking through...
Don't think they are stainless as the other 3 are rusty so stands a chance my bits are not that great
The bits are brand new and were not the cheapy ones either
Perhaps my drill was not slow enough ?
I would clean up the paint around the bolt then protect it with masking tape or similar, then clean up and level the top of the bolt with your angle grinder.
Then centre punch the middle of the bolt and start drilling with a smallish bit, 4mm or so then increase the size of bit until you just have a thin sliver of bolt left. Use water, wd40 or cutting paste and do not let the bit get hot, if you drill accurately you should be able to remove it in no time.
Then centre punch the middle of the bolt and start drilling with a smallish bit, 4mm or so then increase the size of bit until you just have a thin sliver of bolt left. Use water, wd40 or cutting paste and do not let the bit get hot, if you drill accurately you should be able to remove it in no time.
Possibly you're snapping drill bits because it's really tough to keep a hand held drill steady for this kind of job. I've been here a few times, not just GRP, but cast stuff too. It can be a real bugger, especially if you're lying on the floor or an odd angle.
The centre punch and small drill, gradually going up sizes is the way to go, but it's very hard to stay patient while all this happens, plus you have to stay gentle on the drill, making progress even slower.
And keeping drill bit vertical/central to the bolt stub is a challenge too.
I tend to use WD40 rather than water, in the hope it helps with the seized threads as well.
There used to be 'extractor sets' which are reverse threaded taper 'taps', so that you drill a hole and then screw these things in, and they are supposed to unscrew the stud. Not had much success with these to be honest, but have had them work once or twice.
The centre punch and small drill, gradually going up sizes is the way to go, but it's very hard to stay patient while all this happens, plus you have to stay gentle on the drill, making progress even slower.
And keeping drill bit vertical/central to the bolt stub is a challenge too.
I tend to use WD40 rather than water, in the hope it helps with the seized threads as well.
There used to be 'extractor sets' which are reverse threaded taper 'taps', so that you drill a hole and then screw these things in, and they are supposed to unscrew the stud. Not had much success with these to be honest, but have had them work once or twice.
Been here a few times... had the long front chassis to body bolt sheer off. Had to drill about 2 inches from under the car at 45 deg. Snapped quite a few drill bits but got there in the end. As others have said start with a small drill bit and make sure it's in the center of the bolt. There is a cutting paste or spray that I always use (can't remember the name) and use a big drill if you have one on the slowest speed you can. You also need to try to apply a good pressure to the drill and it needs to be directly down the line of the drill otherwise you will snap bits. I find if the drill speeds up fast a couple of times it takes the edge off the bit. It's very tempting to speed it up thinking that will quicken up the process... it doesn't, it just makes the bit blunt and then it really is hard work.
Hope some of this helps. Cheers Steve
Hope some of this helps. Cheers Steve
Is the retaining nut covered up by the spoiler mounting "bracket"? So you can't see it when it's put together? In which case I'll change my mind and say - use heat! I have a small pencil blowtorch that will do the job. The idea is to heat, loosen and remove the captive nut then you can get it on a press drill. When you have cleaned it up you can glue it back into place.
Some great thoughts chaps
What I'm taking away from all the suggestions is slow, steady with plenty of lube and patience (that's sounds so wrong lol)
May need to get more bits as all my small ones have snapped but have at least made one small hole through the bolt
So I will either continue drilling or see if a screw extractor thing may work. I don't have a set but sort of thing I should have in anyhow
Keep you posted
What I'm taking away from all the suggestions is slow, steady with plenty of lube and patience (that's sounds so wrong lol)
May need to get more bits as all my small ones have snapped but have at least made one small hole through the bolt
So I will either continue drilling or see if a screw extractor thing may work. I don't have a set but sort of thing I should have in anyhow
Keep you posted
Wouldn't bother with the screw extractor... in 30 years of working on cars they have never worked yet and they can break off. If this happens you have a real problem as you won't drill them out. Just keep drilling until the walls are very thin and try to break them away. You may need a tap to clean up the threads. Cheers Steve
If you have to use a centre-punch, don't have the wing on anything with a rough surface or you'll shag the paint on the underside.
An alternative to centre-punching is to use a carbide burr or similar in a Dremel to create a hollow in the centre of the stub to give the drill bit a starting point.
I have a similar issue with my wing, I tried to undo the bolts and the GRP crunched ominously so I left the brackets where they are!
In the pic above you can make out the hex shape of the glassed-in nut; the same type are used as the bonnet pivots.
An alternative to centre-punching is to use a carbide burr or similar in a Dremel to create a hollow in the centre of the stub to give the drill bit a starting point.
I have a similar issue with my wing, I tried to undo the bolts and the GRP crunched ominously so I left the brackets where they are!
In the pic above you can make out the hex shape of the glassed-in nut; the same type are used as the bonnet pivots.
hallsie said:
It looks like it is the same as the insert I have for my doors, and they are BRASS, so go carefull.
It may get to a point where you will have to cut it our of the GRP and bond a stainless nut in there.
Stu
From marks I can see on mine, the wing was made in two halves and bonded together (it'd have to be, really, a solid GRP wing would weigh a tonne!) so you could slit it along the leading and trailing edges, bond in a length of stainless with a couple of nuts welded to it and glass it back together... by which time you'd be needing a respray of course... but at least it'd never need doing again It may get to a point where you will have to cut it our of the GRP and bond a stainless nut in there.
Stu
For a laugh a few years ago I did consider mounting the wing on slides so I could extend it rearwards whilst driving... just to make Boxster drivers jealous, really
Having posted above, it's just occured to me that if the nut really is covered up under the spoiler it might be better to see if you can get nut/bolt out from the GRP, and possibly use a SS nut and bolt and washer(s) right through as a replacement. Or can't you get to the other side for the nut?
If you've made it through the bolt by now, I reckon that's the hardest part, just start going up the drill sizes, and then finally use a tap to clean up the thread...or a spare bolt with a saw cut along it works too...
If you've made it through the bolt by now, I reckon that's the hardest part, just start going up the drill sizes, and then finally use a tap to clean up the thread...or a spare bolt with a saw cut along it works too...
Edited by RCK974X on Sunday 24th August 21:40
In screwfix for so more drill bits at 7am and bingo
Net net I'd shagged the tread in the bolt (whizh was like bloody iron) so re tapped the brass bolt no bother and gave the under spoiler a right good clean, de tar and polish
Even polished me pipe a little whilst at it
Another job ticked off the list :-)
Net net I'd shagged the tread in the bolt (whizh was like bloody iron) so re tapped the brass bolt no bother and gave the under spoiler a right good clean, de tar and polish
Even polished me pipe a little whilst at it
Another job ticked off the list :-)
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