Fibreglass Spraying / Prep Work
Discussion
Hi
We have successfully preped and sprayed on fibreglass in the past by using similar techniques to prepping a production car ie wet and dry paper (wet) of the correct grades to flatten the current surface so allowing the primer to key to it.
A proper fibreglass etching primer is preferable but on Panther and Gregs geep (quite a few years back) we used the Re-Paint line of paint (made by Jenolite) usually available from Motor Factors such as Halfords.
The Jenolite undercoat seems to work OK and (touch wood) the paint has not pealed off Panther yet and that is about 3 years old now and was done in winter (not the best time of year to do it) using several of those cheap gaziboos roped together to make a bay and using electric and portable gas heaters to warm the air and vehicle inside this "bay" then turning the heaters off and spraying the paint followed by a brief "let the air born spray particles settle a bit" before putting the heaters back on again.
On Gregs Geep (and to a smaller amount on Panther ) we had to do varies fibreglass repairs (actually rebuilding some parts of various panels on Gregs Geep) to which depending on the amount of damage or type of hole we used a backing of fibreglass(on the inside/underside of the panel) followed by either tissue and resin then body filler or if the remaining area was slight just filler to make the repair proud of the surrounding panel. Then using the correct grade abrasive paper work the repair back to the required shape and design.
A quick spray of the undercoat on what you think is a perfect repair will show any high spots or imperfections which you can then either work on to get it sorted or if not too serious leave.
Currently I am working on both T4x4 and Jemimah and both have had various "repairs" or modifications made using the above method and I am sure Dave (the owner of Jemimah) will agree the repair to the one rear arch spat on Jemimah has worked out fine.
Just need the good weather to get stuff finished and do the required respray work.
We have successfully preped and sprayed on fibreglass in the past by using similar techniques to prepping a production car ie wet and dry paper (wet) of the correct grades to flatten the current surface so allowing the primer to key to it.
A proper fibreglass etching primer is preferable but on Panther and Gregs geep (quite a few years back) we used the Re-Paint line of paint (made by Jenolite) usually available from Motor Factors such as Halfords.
The Jenolite undercoat seems to work OK and (touch wood) the paint has not pealed off Panther yet and that is about 3 years old now and was done in winter (not the best time of year to do it) using several of those cheap gaziboos roped together to make a bay and using electric and portable gas heaters to warm the air and vehicle inside this "bay" then turning the heaters off and spraying the paint followed by a brief "let the air born spray particles settle a bit" before putting the heaters back on again.
On Gregs Geep (and to a smaller amount on Panther ) we had to do varies fibreglass repairs (actually rebuilding some parts of various panels on Gregs Geep) to which depending on the amount of damage or type of hole we used a backing of fibreglass(on the inside/underside of the panel) followed by either tissue and resin then body filler or if the remaining area was slight just filler to make the repair proud of the surrounding panel. Then using the correct grade abrasive paper work the repair back to the required shape and design.
A quick spray of the undercoat on what you think is a perfect repair will show any high spots or imperfections which you can then either work on to get it sorted or if not too serious leave.
Currently I am working on both T4x4 and Jemimah and both have had various "repairs" or modifications made using the above method and I am sure Dave (the owner of Jemimah) will agree the repair to the one rear arch spat on Jemimah has worked out fine.
Just need the good weather to get stuff finished and do the required respray work.
Yellow peril needed a total respray after extensive chassis and body damage. Have a look at the West Epoxy site for how - to's on repairing GRP www.westsystem.com/
the projects section has tips on most areas and Jago's are no different to boats.
Spraying, following advice I used Dacrylate two pack polyurothane marine primer, supplied by Clifton Paints of North Road, Bedminster, Bristol, to prep yellow. this is a very heavy and flexible primer, which rubs down very easily, subsequent top coat was with normal vehicle two pack
have fun and if you hear of any good tips on the painting and preparation side, let me know - I have a pig of a job ahead of me when it comes to the next project - combination of GRP and Ali bodywork.
the projects section has tips on most areas and Jago's are no different to boats.
Spraying, following advice I used Dacrylate two pack polyurothane marine primer, supplied by Clifton Paints of North Road, Bedminster, Bristol, to prep yellow. this is a very heavy and flexible primer, which rubs down very easily, subsequent top coat was with normal vehicle two pack
have fun and if you hear of any good tips on the painting and preparation side, let me know - I have a pig of a job ahead of me when it comes to the next project - combination of GRP and Ali bodywork.
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