de cat pipes!!!
Discussion
Mike,
just to make sure you have the complete picture, Clive makes the de-catted y-piece, you still have the cats in the manifolds to deal with, which will need removing if you want to be fully de-catted.
The manifold cats can be done in-situ, but I'd take them off to be honest - your choice though!
Regards
Paul.
just to make sure you have the complete picture, Clive makes the de-catted y-piece, you still have the cats in the manifolds to deal with, which will need removing if you want to be fully de-catted.
The manifold cats can be done in-situ, but I'd take them off to be honest - your choice though!
Regards
Paul.
You also need to remove the pre-cats from the exhaust manifolds.
EITHER buy some that are already de-catted,
OR de-cat your own. It can be done on the car, but is far easier off the car.
You basically get a big screwdriver and a hammer, or a long drill, the kind you use to go through walls, wear a mask, and bash them out. It is an hour's hard work each side.
However, if you are going to do this, test them first to see if they don't already have a leak - most do.
Easy test is to start the engine, then with a couple of feet of thin plastic or rubber pipe, stick one end in your ear and move the other end around close to the manifolds. Most cars seem to suffer from poor welding at the 4>1 union, so if you can hear a louder sound there then you need to get that fixed.
In which case, get the manifolds off (or get your TVR guy to go it) and then he or you can find a good welding person who can cut the manifolds open, repair the 4>1 weld from the inside, and while they are at it, remove the pre-cats.
So it is going to cost you a couple of hundred pounds either way
EITHER buy some that are already de-catted,
OR de-cat your own. It can be done on the car, but is far easier off the car.
You basically get a big screwdriver and a hammer, or a long drill, the kind you use to go through walls, wear a mask, and bash them out. It is an hour's hard work each side.
However, if you are going to do this, test them first to see if they don't already have a leak - most do.
Easy test is to start the engine, then with a couple of feet of thin plastic or rubber pipe, stick one end in your ear and move the other end around close to the manifolds. Most cars seem to suffer from poor welding at the 4>1 union, so if you can hear a louder sound there then you need to get that fixed.
In which case, get the manifolds off (or get your TVR guy to go it) and then he or you can find a good welding person who can cut the manifolds open, repair the 4>1 weld from the inside, and while they are at it, remove the pre-cats.
So it is going to cost you a couple of hundred pounds either way
QBee, thanks for the update. I'm really confused now. I assumed that with Clive's Y piece it was literally unbolt existing, and bolt on.
I have no idea where the bloody things are.
Probably best get my learning head on before I attack the car with a hammer
Anyone have a step by step process??
I have no idea where the bloody things are.
Probably best get my learning head on before I attack the car with a hammer
Anyone have a step by step process??
silverback mike said:
QBee, thanks for the update. I'm really confused now. I assumed that with Clive's Y piece it was literally unbolt existing, and bolt on.
I have no idea where the bloody things are.
Probably best get my learning head on before I attack the car with a hammer
Anyone have a step by step process??
As original you have 2 precats and 1 main cat, the y piece contains the main cat and the pre cats are located at the end of each manifold just behind the lambda sensors. If you wish to remove the precats it is a drill, hammer, and chisel job from the end where you have removed the y piece. I have no idea where the bloody things are.
Probably best get my learning head on before I attack the car with a hammer
Anyone have a step by step process??
I've just been researching and come across the 2005 thread of how to do it.....I'm in two minds to flog mine and buy a chim already done
Seeing as mine is a bit a time warp original and driven 100 miles a year 
(Until I got my mits on it....) Seems a shame to alter it. Probably a bit nice for me.I wonder...
fatboychim said:
As original you have 2 precats and 1 main cat, the y piece contains the main cat and the pre cats are located at the end of each manifold just behind the lambda sensors. If you wish to remove the precats it is a drill, hammer, and chisel job from the end where you have removed the y piece.
You may wish to try leaving the precats intact depending on how loud you want it, they are pretty loud with no cats at all. I haven't heard one with precats and no main cat but I imagine it would subdue the noise a little. I am decatting shortly as my main cat went bang recently and I'm not sure replacement cats are available and TBH I only need the cat for silencing.
There are two distinct markets out there for Chims
1. Nice original garage queens, low mileage, never been above 3000 rpm
2. Modified cars that get driven, including track days.
If you are heading down the modifying slope, it is far far cheaper to sell your existing car and pick up a car that is already modified by someone else to the sort of spec you want. So decide on your spec and get checking the classifieds.
I went to visit another new Chim owner last night and was stunned to see the car he had bought - 1993 4 litre car, but freshly re-sprayed, new headlights, new later rear lights, TVR Power Supercharger kit fitted by TVR Power, all under bonnet area detailed beautifully, fuse box moved to behind the passenger seat, interior all cleaned and re-trimmed as necessary, 17/18 inch SP12 wheels, 300 mm Wilwood 4 or 6 pot brake upgrade, armourfend front, less than 30,000 miles.
Annoyingly for me, he paid less than i paid for my 1999 67,000 mile standard car two years ago. See what I mean?
So decide what you want to end up with, and try to buy it ready done. It will cost you far less than doing it yourself. Guaranteed.
1. Nice original garage queens, low mileage, never been above 3000 rpm
2. Modified cars that get driven, including track days.
If you are heading down the modifying slope, it is far far cheaper to sell your existing car and pick up a car that is already modified by someone else to the sort of spec you want. So decide on your spec and get checking the classifieds.
I went to visit another new Chim owner last night and was stunned to see the car he had bought - 1993 4 litre car, but freshly re-sprayed, new headlights, new later rear lights, TVR Power Supercharger kit fitted by TVR Power, all under bonnet area detailed beautifully, fuse box moved to behind the passenger seat, interior all cleaned and re-trimmed as necessary, 17/18 inch SP12 wheels, 300 mm Wilwood 4 or 6 pot brake upgrade, armourfend front, less than 30,000 miles.
Annoyingly for me, he paid less than i paid for my 1999 67,000 mile standard car two years ago. See what I mean?
So decide what you want to end up with, and try to buy it ready done. It will cost you far less than doing it yourself. Guaranteed.
I think I'm more of a driver and fiddler...
My snag is for once I bought a 30,000 mile absolute show queen that's never been out in the rain (Honestly) and never driven hard. The chassis was stripped and waxoyed every year. In short owned by an absolute fanatical polisher. Nice bloke though.
I'm not used to this type of TVR as my previous were definitely of the more 'driver' approach.
I'm sure there is, as you say a market for unchanged from factory examples, and as such will be diminishing in numbers the more that get altered.
But I can't help fiddling I'll get my thinking cap on and see what's important I reckon....
My snag is for once I bought a 30,000 mile absolute show queen that's never been out in the rain (Honestly) and never driven hard. The chassis was stripped and waxoyed every year. In short owned by an absolute fanatical polisher. Nice bloke though.
I'm not used to this type of TVR as my previous were definitely of the more 'driver' approach.
I'm sure there is, as you say a market for unchanged from factory examples, and as such will be diminishing in numbers the more that get altered.
But I can't help fiddling
I'll get my thinking cap on and see what's important I reckon....Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff