Chassis repairers?
Discussion
Can anyone recommend someone that will lift the body on my 93 Griff, repair the chassis and replace the body at a reasonable price. I admit I havn't tried the Dealers yet (that's next) but imagine they will be far from cheap. Also, I'm not sure they actually want this sort of work
>>> Edited by Iain G on Saturday 18th December 20:34
>>> Edited by Iain G on Saturday 18th December 20:34
peninsula (local to you) have done this several times on griffs and others, wasn't too expensive i don't think. i remember thinking it was quite reasonable at the time...though it wasn't my car and they weren't main dealers then! they have another workshop up the road where they do long term restorations and i don't THINK that comes under the main dealership.
give them a try, you may be surprised.
give them a try, you may be surprised.
Bad luck 
Had my outriggers replaced with the body still in place - it is possible if the rest of the chassis and the innermost sections of the outrigger cross tubes are still solid (as the replacement tube going from the rear of the outrigger up to the rear shock mount can't be welded in the original place without the body coming off - has to be joined to old metal about 1-2 inches from the TVR weld) - see here for the 'almost finished' pics and here for the 'nightmare on axlestands' pics that made me cry. Almost
I spoke to Peninsula when I was looking for quotes, and they seemed dead helpful, and have done similar stuff before (which helps
), but they're too far from me to make it viable.
I was very happy with Richard Moore racings work (Milton Keynes) - I'd recommend a chat with them if only to get an opinion on what your options are
The 'clever welding with the body still on' option isn't for everyone, but financially it's a no-brainer.
I think a lot of cars are approaching this sort of situation - once rot has taken hold (from the inside out on occasion apparently), no amount of paint and waxoyl will stop the inevitable. Just glad mines been done now - I know I've got seatbelts attached to something stronger than wet bogroll
>> Edited by andy43 on Monday 20th December 19:30
Had my outriggers replaced with the body still in place - it is possible if the rest of the chassis and the innermost sections of the outrigger cross tubes are still solid (as the replacement tube going from the rear of the outrigger up to the rear shock mount can't be welded in the original place without the body coming off - has to be joined to old metal about 1-2 inches from the TVR weld) - see here for the 'almost finished' pics and here for the 'nightmare on axlestands' pics that made me cry. Almost
I spoke to Peninsula when I was looking for quotes, and they seemed dead helpful, and have done similar stuff before (which helps
), but they're too far from me to make it viable. I was very happy with Richard Moore racings work (Milton Keynes) - I'd recommend a chat with them if only to get an opinion on what your options are
The 'clever welding with the body still on' option isn't for everyone, but financially it's a no-brainer.
I think a lot of cars are approaching this sort of situation - once rot has taken hold (from the inside out on occasion apparently), no amount of paint and waxoyl will stop the inevitable. Just glad mines been done now - I know I've got seatbelts attached to something stronger than wet bogroll
>> Edited by andy43 on Monday 20th December 19:30
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