sump oil leaks
sump oil leaks
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Discussion

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
my 3000s has oil leaks from the sumpconfused
I have a new Cork gasket, which is in 4 different parts like a Jigsaw Puzzle.
Does someone produce a better gasket then this which imho is not a very good design.
I enjoy doing work on the car, that's why i bought it but i prefer to do a job once and do it as best as possible.
Any ideas
Alan

griff 200

509 posts

214 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
If the cork gasket interlocks it will be fine. I would advise you stick it to the sump pan with evostick or spray glue this makes it a lot easier to fit without it getting misaligned I also welseal the top surface as well. Richard

phillpot

17,435 posts

204 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
plasticpig72 said:
Does someone produce a better gasket than this which imho is not a very good design.
Worked ok for a few thousand cars wink


Are you using a sealant? my choice would be very light smear of Hylomar.


Could always make your ownscratchchin

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
thanks for the tips

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

180 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
hi Alan,

a/ make sure the sumppan is straight (use a ruler, and adjust if need be)
b/ contact surfaces need to be free of gasket remnants, cleaned and degreased
c/ make the jigsaw, so you know what goes where (and how)
d/ apply a small bead of liquid gasket maker (also inner of the bolt holes)
e/ apply jigsaw, relative to the holes, let set for a bit
f/ apply small bead of gasket maker to the 'top' of the gasket
e/ offer up the pan to the engine, insert 4 bolts (square pattern) (bolts need spring washers)
f/ insert rest of the bolts in square criss/cross fashion (hope i'm making sense here)
g/ torque up the bolts in again the above pattern, DO NOT overtorque (use workshop guide for values, don't remember by head)

are you sure its just the sump gasket ?
the front engine/timing cover has 4 gaskets;
a/ rubber lipped on the crankshaft pulley (should be ok, if not they are a pig to replace)
b/ fuelpump/blanking gasket (get the right thickness)
c/ gasket of the cover itself (again bead of gasket maker, again do not overtorque)
d/ gasket in backing plate of the cover, this requires removal of the camshaft-timing wheel, so it is often 'forgotten'

The big end at the rear has also a rubber lipped seal, but this obviously requires removal of gearbox, sort of hoping for you it isn't at fault.....

Most importantly, take care, work relaxed, have a cuppa now and again and have fun !

regards,

Frank

Adrian@

4,503 posts

303 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
Buy a good quality gasket, a simple cork gasket will not work...if you look at the OE item it has a foil inner, sandwiched between two pieces of cork, this stops the gasket from moving sideways.
Adrian@

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
thanks again for the good tips and i will make sure i use a cork gasket with the FOIL.
I've had this sort of battle with Lotus Elans that like to throw oil everywherelaugh

prideaux

4,974 posts

170 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
I am not sure about the V6 as i have yet to do that one but on the crossflow next time i do one i will change the bolts to studs as it will make it far quicker to pop on before the sealer goes off as i spent so much time getting it lined up so i think that change may make it easier.
Andrew

phillpot

17,435 posts

204 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
prideaux said:
next time i do one i will change the bolts to studs
Just changing a couple each side would be sufficient to help alignment scratchchin


Four old bolts, heads cut off and a slot cut in the end, remove with a screwdriver once sump is on and fit original bolts wink


It's not like it's something you're going to be fitting and removing regularly!

ATE399J

732 posts

258 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
phillpot said:
prideaux said:
next time i do one i will change the bolts to studs
It's not like it's something you're going to be fitting and removing regularly!
Andrew polishes the inside of his at every oil change.

bluezeeland

1,965 posts

180 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
Or, with the sump pan readied on the bench, gasket on, pop some of the bolts in from the top, thus aligning the gasket while the silicone sets............you want to take out the bolts again prior assembly tho ...biggrin

prideaux

4,974 posts

170 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
ATE399J said:
phillpot said:
prideaux said:
next time i do one i will change the bolts to studs
It's not like it's something you're going to be fitting and removing regularly!
Andrew polishes the inside of his at every oil change.
rofl Dont give away my performance secrets Phil
The flow of the oil equals the speed of the cam plus the OCD of the Owner wink
A


plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
now the big question isfrown Can i drop the sump, easy so i can give it a good clean. Adjust flatness of flange before degreasing with Acetone and glueing in place the dreaded gasketrolleyes

griff 200

509 posts

214 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
It's really not needed the studs etc. just stick the gasket to the clean flat sump use compound on top to make job 100/ and fit been doing this way x number of times a week for over 40 years it works try it. ??!

plasticpig72

Original Poster:

1,647 posts

170 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
thanks Griff, can i just drop the sump easy?confused

whitewolf

751 posts

187 months

Wednesday 10th September 2014
quotequote all
As said - build jigsaw then use smear of silicone/hylomar to hold cork to sump, I put a small smear overlap the jigsaw joints then lift and bolt up.

Also as said - don't over torque. You need the cork to seal, not crush.