Chim not starting
Discussion
Hey chaps and chapters!
Bought a chim a couple of months ago and all going well!
Drove to a wedding on Saturday in Devon, car was perfect!
Driving back on Monday, car was a bit hesitant when accelerating, got me home fine and was on the whole driving fine! Temp gauge was off all over the shot but I think that's unrelated!
Left it yesterday, went to start it today and it wouldn't fire!
Pump is turning on as normal when the immobiliser goes offer, seems to crank or turnover fine, but doesn't fire up!
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Bought a chim a couple of months ago and all going well!
Drove to a wedding on Saturday in Devon, car was perfect!
Driving back on Monday, car was a bit hesitant when accelerating, got me home fine and was on the whole driving fine! Temp gauge was off all over the shot but I think that's unrelated!
Left it yesterday, went to start it today and it wouldn't fire!
Pump is turning on as normal when the immobiliser goes offer, seems to crank or turnover fine, but doesn't fire up!
Any thoughts?
Thanks
s p a c e m a n said:
If the fuel pump is priming it's a fairly good guess that the immobiliser/relays/ecu is all working .
So yesterday, I went to have a look at the car to see if I could figure out what the problems were. I thought why not give it a try and see if it starts. So I did and it did! At this point, all I had done was open the bonnet and sanity check the HT lead connections.
I went for a little drive to see if the hesitancy was still present and see if the temp gauge was still horsing around.
For the first 10/15 minutes the hesitancy wasn't present, the car drove as well as it always had.
The temp guage was still horsing around, within 15 minutes of the drive it had already reached well over the 120 mark, and dipped back under 90 a number of times.
Far too quickly for it to actually be changing temperature.
I pulled over and opened the bonnet, as before I stood with the car running, and as before the fans cut in for a few minutes, then out again (like it always has done if you are stationary).
I drove off and the hesitancy was back, when idling at traffic lights it didnt sound quite the same as before (although this could be my imagination).
At one point the hesitation was quite prenounced, the car really lurched as it hit circa 3K then took off again and continued building revs smoothing.
I got home again and the fans cut in, and then a minute later off again.
Do people still think that ignition amp or coil is likely to be the issue?
In terms of the temperature, would people agree with my theory which is that the otter switch is doing its job and correctly controlling the fans and temperature and that the gauge (or its sensor) is lying?
Where does the temp gauge get its reading?
I went for a little drive to see if the hesitancy was still present and see if the temp gauge was still horsing around.
For the first 10/15 minutes the hesitancy wasn't present, the car drove as well as it always had.
The temp guage was still horsing around, within 15 minutes of the drive it had already reached well over the 120 mark, and dipped back under 90 a number of times.
Far too quickly for it to actually be changing temperature.
I pulled over and opened the bonnet, as before I stood with the car running, and as before the fans cut in for a few minutes, then out again (like it always has done if you are stationary).
I drove off and the hesitancy was back, when idling at traffic lights it didnt sound quite the same as before (although this could be my imagination).
At one point the hesitation was quite prenounced, the car really lurched as it hit circa 3K then took off again and continued building revs smoothing.
I got home again and the fans cut in, and then a minute later off again.
Do people still think that ignition amp or coil is likely to be the issue?
In terms of the temperature, would people agree with my theory which is that the otter switch is doing its job and correctly controlling the fans and temperature and that the gauge (or its sensor) is lying?
Where does the temp gauge get its reading?
I believe that the TVR rover v8 has three temp sensors.
1. The otter switch - bottom of swirl pot (or top passenger side rad on post '98 cars). Just controls rad fans. Yours seems to be working fine judging from the fans cycling
2. There is a coolant sensor which feeds the ECU and allow it to adjust fuelling to compensate for a cold engine. Easily visible in the inlet manifold just underneath where the breather hose connects to the plenum on the passenger side (brown connector). Problems with this can cause overfueling when hot as the ECU thinks the engine is constantly cold so over fuels (may smell rich or have sooty plugs). This is not uncommon.
3. IIRC xSensor for the dash gauge is also into the inlet manifold but hidden down by the thermostat housing (hose which takes water from the manifold to the swirl tank takes off here). This one is likely faulty in your car.
Many possible reasons for your symptoms! Make sure all ignition components appear secure. You could buy a roverguage cable and check the ecu values but most problems with stalling, hesitancy etc turn out to be on the ignition rather than fuelling side.
1. The otter switch - bottom of swirl pot (or top passenger side rad on post '98 cars). Just controls rad fans. Yours seems to be working fine judging from the fans cycling
2. There is a coolant sensor which feeds the ECU and allow it to adjust fuelling to compensate for a cold engine. Easily visible in the inlet manifold just underneath where the breather hose connects to the plenum on the passenger side (brown connector). Problems with this can cause overfueling when hot as the ECU thinks the engine is constantly cold so over fuels (may smell rich or have sooty plugs). This is not uncommon.
3. IIRC xSensor for the dash gauge is also into the inlet manifold but hidden down by the thermostat housing (hose which takes water from the manifold to the swirl tank takes off here). This one is likely faulty in your car.
Many possible reasons for your symptoms! Make sure all ignition components appear secure. You could buy a roverguage cable and check the ecu values but most problems with stalling, hesitancy etc turn out to be on the ignition rather than fuelling side.
Edited by swallet on Friday 26th September 19:37
t / bad running may be the ECU sender pb450 said:
I'm sure I read somewhere here recently that 'pump priming' could be a red herring for the immobiliser working OK. Can't recall the reference but don't just assume that the immobiliser is OK without checking thoroughly. I'm assuming it's the original system...
If the pump is priming and the engine is turning over then it's not the immobiliser. There are two relays in the immobiliser and the starter motor one is more likely to fail than the fuel pump one.Sounds like coil to me, mine had the same symptoms (bar the temp gauge) and a new Bosch coil from John Craddock (LR specialist) had it sorted.
With the gauge, try disturbing the connector to the sensor first. Like many I had similar antics from the oil pressure readings, it was only a poor spade connection.
With the gauge, try disturbing the connector to the sensor first. Like many I had similar antics from the oil pressure readings, it was only a poor spade connection.
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