DSLR for numpties
Discussion
Practice is key, try different settings and see what happens.
That said, what sort of post processing are you doing? Download the trial of Lightroom and try running your shots through it. You can quite often make the most flat and bland photo a hell of a lot better.
As already mentioned, put up some examples.
That said, what sort of post processing are you doing? Download the trial of Lightroom and try running your shots through it. You can quite often make the most flat and bland photo a hell of a lot better.
As already mentioned, put up some examples.
Simpo Two said:
Aperture priority exposure mode won't make any difference to the colour, just give you control over depth of field. But you may be getting underexposure and need to adjust that a bit. Need examples to see really.
It might - a 'landscape' mode will be applying a more vibrant picture style than Av might be?As already suggested find something that doesn't move. if you don't have a tripod put camera on chair/table and take a photograph at various ISO aperture, shutter speed and look at the different photographs you get. You can see what settings the camera used by looking at the exif data (right click properties to see what settings the camera used)
Lots of help on you tube as well.
Lots of help on you tube as well.
Depends on how you like to learn but there are a myriad of options out there.
1. Trial and error, as suggested above really. Try everything and see what it all does.
2. Buy a book or two (this was my method as I wanted a bit more direction to my experimanting). I bought Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. It's generic in the sense that it simply dwells on the three key elements of the exposure triangle and metering rather than talking about any particular camera, but once you understand the exposure triangle and metering, your camera modes will seem self explanatory.
3. There are mountains of free resources to read online now. Talkphotography has a load of tutorials which cover everything from basics to complex concepts. It's a good forum too though there are a fair few odd people on there!
4. Youtube, thousands of free tutorials. Watch them with camera in hand.
5. Go on a course. Your local college may run some.
No right or wrong way to do it. Just choose a method that suits. Once you have it sussed, you'll be hooked.
1. Trial and error, as suggested above really. Try everything and see what it all does.
2. Buy a book or two (this was my method as I wanted a bit more direction to my experimanting). I bought Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. It's generic in the sense that it simply dwells on the three key elements of the exposure triangle and metering rather than talking about any particular camera, but once you understand the exposure triangle and metering, your camera modes will seem self explanatory.
3. There are mountains of free resources to read online now. Talkphotography has a load of tutorials which cover everything from basics to complex concepts. It's a good forum too though there are a fair few odd people on there!
4. Youtube, thousands of free tutorials. Watch them with camera in hand.
5. Go on a course. Your local college may run some.
No right or wrong way to do it. Just choose a method that suits. Once you have it sussed, you'll be hooked.
RobDickinson said:
Simpo Two said:
Aperture priority exposure mode won't make any difference to the colour, just give you control over depth of field. But you may be getting underexposure and need to adjust that a bit. Need examples to see really.
It might - a 'landscape' mode will be applying a more vibrant picture style than Av might be?Leading cause of "flat" pictures with D3200 is high ISO. As a rough guide, you lose a stop of dynamic range every time you bump the ISO up.
This is the best video tutorial for D3200. I have owned a D3200 for a year and agree with everything this guys says. It will show you how to map one of the function buttons and the command dial to give manual control over the ISO. Try to keep under ISO 800 for best colours and details.
http://froknowsphoto.com/nikon-d3200-tutorial/
Also- The kit lenses are sharpest at F8, if you want to make the most of 24mpix
Best RAW Convertor for the d3200 is DXO Optics pro with Prime noise reduction enabled.
This is the best video tutorial for D3200. I have owned a D3200 for a year and agree with everything this guys says. It will show you how to map one of the function buttons and the command dial to give manual control over the ISO. Try to keep under ISO 800 for best colours and details.
http://froknowsphoto.com/nikon-d3200-tutorial/
Also- The kit lenses are sharpest at F8, if you want to make the most of 24mpix
Best RAW Convertor for the d3200 is DXO Optics pro with Prime noise reduction enabled.
If you use a semi auto mode (aperture priority for example) I would suggest to turn off auto ISO and set it to (say) 200. The reason is if the camera is changing ISO its hard to get a clear idea of how changing aperture is affecting shutter speed.
In other words only let one thing change at a time. I always control ISO manually and only increase it when I run out of aperture (for the DOF I want) & shutter speed.
Rough guide is to not let shutter speed drop below focal length * 2, e.g. if you're shooting at 100mm don't go below 1/200th, you might find you need a bit more than that to avoid camera shake to begin with.
Some people add in the crop factor to that, others use different ways of working it out - its just a rough guide, if its windy you might need more than that for example.
In other words only let one thing change at a time. I always control ISO manually and only increase it when I run out of aperture (for the DOF I want) & shutter speed.
Rough guide is to not let shutter speed drop below focal length * 2, e.g. if you're shooting at 100mm don't go below 1/200th, you might find you need a bit more than that to avoid camera shake to begin with.
Some people add in the crop factor to that, others use different ways of working it out - its just a rough guide, if its windy you might need more than that for example.
Trial and error is a good suggestion for sure, but I'd strongly recommend that your first task should be understanding how the holy trinity of aperture, shutter speed and ISO work together.
They are absolutely fundamental to understanding exposure and once you've grasped the idea (which isn't difficult), all of your subsequent learning will be both simpler and more effective.
They are absolutely fundamental to understanding exposure and once you've grasped the idea (which isn't difficult), all of your subsequent learning will be both simpler and more effective.
Thank you for all the help and advice.
I've read lots and watched a few YouTube videos and learnt a lot.
Was out today with family and friends and took hundreds of photos on different settings to see what they do. This is helping in both learning how the camera works and what I need to do with the settings.
Is a lens hood and UV filters a must?
Also I am finding the neck strap annoying do any of you use a wrist strap?
I've read lots and watched a few YouTube videos and learnt a lot.
Was out today with family and friends and took hundreds of photos on different settings to see what they do. This is helping in both learning how the camera works and what I need to do with the settings.
Is a lens hood and UV filters a must?
Also I am finding the neck strap annoying do any of you use a wrist strap?
Lens hood is very useful, UV filter not so much.
You don't use the strap round your neck. Make the strap nearly as long as possible, then put it around your neck and shoulder. The camera will then hang by your side allowing you to walk/run/bend whilst still allowing you bring it up to eye level quickly.
You don't use the strap round your neck. Make the strap nearly as long as possible, then put it around your neck and shoulder. The camera will then hang by your side allowing you to walk/run/bend whilst still allowing you bring it up to eye level quickly.
justin220 said:
Daft question, but what is a lense hood for?
To keep flare out of the picture - typically caused by having the sun just out of shot, it kills contrast as well. Some people also use a hood as physical protection. I don't use one because (1) it makes the lens bigger (2) I'm careful (3) I use my hand to shield the front element from glare 
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