alarm/indicator fault - any ideas ?
Discussion
My car has developed a strange alarm/indicator fault whereby sometimes (more often than not) when operating either alarm (the factory fitted one operated by the door locks, or an aftermarket one using a key-fob) all 3 offside indicator lights stay on.
Clearly I can’t drive the car like that, as the right hand indicator has no effect on the stuck-on lights, so it’s a repeated on/off of the alarm until eventually they go out.
Has anyone got experience of anything similar that might lead me to a solution, or am I in for a very expensive bill to remove both alarms and fit a new one ?
Any assistance gratefully appreciated; off down the car club now but was hoping to start probing in the morning.
Cheers
Mike
Clearly I can’t drive the car like that, as the right hand indicator has no effect on the stuck-on lights, so it’s a repeated on/off of the alarm until eventually they go out.
Has anyone got experience of anything similar that might lead me to a solution, or am I in for a very expensive bill to remove both alarms and fit a new one ?
Any assistance gratefully appreciated; off down the car club now but was hoping to start probing in the morning.
Cheers
Mike
I have had a simillar problem.
The central locking module was the culprit. If its the same problem you will need to take the dash top off, or at least undo the passenger side in order to lift it, and access the central locking module which, in mine, was one of the two boxes under there. Inside the box are a number of small relays (integral to the module rather than removeable as I recall) and one was sticking in the on position and hence continuing to power the indicators on one side. I don't think this is really a repairable unit but I seem to remember that they are no longer available. (I might be wrong).
Anyway I made a bodge repair (about a year ago) that has proved OK so far. I managed to remove the plastic cover from the "relay" (I think I had to break it) and clean up the connections with emmery paper, bent it a bit and generally "excercised" it. I then stuck it all back together and it has worked since.
If you don't want to risk destroying the module I guess you could just disconnect the wire from this box which powers the OS indicators.
Hope this helps......but the usual caveat....this is how I sorted mine but yours might be a different problem and might be wired differently.
The central locking module was the culprit. If its the same problem you will need to take the dash top off, or at least undo the passenger side in order to lift it, and access the central locking module which, in mine, was one of the two boxes under there. Inside the box are a number of small relays (integral to the module rather than removeable as I recall) and one was sticking in the on position and hence continuing to power the indicators on one side. I don't think this is really a repairable unit but I seem to remember that they are no longer available. (I might be wrong).
Anyway I made a bodge repair (about a year ago) that has proved OK so far. I managed to remove the plastic cover from the "relay" (I think I had to break it) and clean up the connections with emmery paper, bent it a bit and generally "excercised" it. I then stuck it all back together and it has worked since.
If you don't want to risk destroying the module I guess you could just disconnect the wire from this box which powers the OS indicators.
Hope this helps......but the usual caveat....this is how I sorted mine but yours might be a different problem and might be wired differently.
I posted this on a different topic but the advice is the same.
When I bought my Chim just a few months ago my immobiliser/alarm fobs were in such a crap state that they would only open the car if held next to about two places and sometimes it took me ten minutes to get in or lock the car.
Not only was this 'not ideal' it was hugely embarrassing!
I got lots of good tips in the forum but the best one was to get in touch with Carl at TVRUK. I went and saw him one saturday morning and he reprogrammed the alarm and two new key fobs that work from about 40 feet away, first time, every time! It cost me £150 which i think is money incredibly well spent.
hope it helps
mike
When I bought my Chim just a few months ago my immobiliser/alarm fobs were in such a crap state that they would only open the car if held next to about two places and sometimes it took me ten minutes to get in or lock the car.
Not only was this 'not ideal' it was hugely embarrassing!
I got lots of good tips in the forum but the best one was to get in touch with Carl at TVRUK. I went and saw him one saturday morning and he reprogrammed the alarm and two new key fobs that work from about 40 feet away, first time, every time! It cost me £150 which i think is money incredibly well spent.
hope it helps
mike
mgaut said:
thanks for that Paul; doesn't sound like a job for me (I'll stick to painting the chassis!) but the advice is appreciated as I can use that to get someone to look at it.
cheers
Mike
Theres no doubt, Carl Baker walks on water where TVR alarms are concerned.
0772 072 3407
[carl@tvruk.tv]
www.tvruk.tv/
This may help explain what is going on:
www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?p=1&f=23&t=121124&h=0&hw
www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?p=1&f=23&t=121124&h=0&hw
mgaut said:
it's been suggested that as the central locking and indicators/hazards lights are working fine a quick (cheap!) solution will be to disconnect the alarm that triggers the indicators.
As I posted on the link above, you could always just disconnect one side, at least then you would know if the alarm is on or off.
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