Trailing arm info needed can you help?
Discussion
Can anyone tell the best place to get some new rear trailing arms for my S2.
I have found that they are rotten could repair but they seem to be just as bad inside as they do out?
Is TVR the only place i can get new ones from?
Any idea of the cost of them?
Christmas bonus is soon going.
Cheers
Kev
I have found that they are rotten could repair but they seem to be just as bad inside as they do out?
Is TVR the only place i can get new ones from?
Any idea of the cost of them?
Christmas bonus is soon going.
Cheers
Kev
I seem to remember that Adrian Venn has the jigs for these. When mine went at Hethel, Tower View rebuilt them with much heavier gauge material, which helps since it has very hard suspension and spends so much time being chucked over the rumble strips. But for normal use the original arms are fine apart from the issue of corrosion.
Gents,
How do the arms come? Are they powder coated as original, or are they bare steel?
I work in the oil industry, and currently am getting steel items supplied with a 'Thermal Spray Coating'.
Basically, this is molten aliminium applied by using electric arc or oxy-propane to melt ali wire and charging the object to be coated. The result is a semi silver finish that the industry specialists are guarenteeing for 25 years against corrosion. Our world wide inspection people are so impressed that it has now become standard supply spec' for piping and vessels
When I have to do a body off refurb on my V8 I will go down this route. I don't believe it will be any more expensive than a properly applied paint system...and I think quite a bit better than powder coat!
How do the arms come? Are they powder coated as original, or are they bare steel?
I work in the oil industry, and currently am getting steel items supplied with a 'Thermal Spray Coating'.
Basically, this is molten aliminium applied by using electric arc or oxy-propane to melt ali wire and charging the object to be coated. The result is a semi silver finish that the industry specialists are guarenteeing for 25 years against corrosion. Our world wide inspection people are so impressed that it has now become standard supply spec' for piping and vessels
When I have to do a body off refurb on my V8 I will go down this route. I don't believe it will be any more expensive than a properly applied paint system...and I think quite a bit better than powder coat!
Ive just had one of mine refurbished (S1). Originally was looking for new ones but found that only S3 were available and would therefore need a pair and new shocks, etc. The cost was rapidly approaching £1k once you consider installation so went to Adrian Venn who refurbished mine for around £170 in about 2 days.
>> Edited by aruck on Wednesday 22 December 12:54
>> Edited by aruck on Wednesday 22 December 12:54
nawarne said:
Basically, this is molten aliminium applied by using electric arc or oxy-propane to melt ali wire and charging the object to be coated. The result is a semi silver finish that the industry specialists are guarenteeing for 25 years against corrosion.
I thought that aluminium and steel when in contact start a reaction of corrosion?
Perhaps it's just surface contact corrosion which in this case would be beneficial as the alloy would bond and etch into the steel beneath it but the top coating of alloy would be non-corrosive .......unless in a seaside environment.
nawarne said:
Basically, this is molten aliminium applied by using electric arc or oxy-propane to melt ali wire and charging the object to be coated. The result is a semi silver finish that the industry specialists are guarenteeing for 25 years against corrosion.
That sounds very handy! One worry, does it involve heating the component significantly? That's the big problem with other techniques like galvanisation. If you can get a similar benefit using a cold treatment this could be very handy indeed when my V8S comes up for a chassis restore next year.
Kentish,
I work in the rather large refinery in Hampshire - -right by the sea (as are nearly all refineries) 'cos we use the salt water for cooling.
Electrolytic corrosion will only take place if the dissimilar metals are far apart in the electrochemical series and are in the presence of an electrolyte. What happens with this process is that the steel is shot blasted to a 2.5 micron finish and then the molten aliminium is applied.
The heat of the molten ali (melting point of ali is 3 times that of steel?) vapourises any liquid/contaminants present on the steel surface, and then chemically bonds itself to the surface - thereby excluding anything that might become an electrolyte!
At least this is what the advertising blurb says! Several of our European affiliates have 6+ years experience with items coated with this system and performance so far is impressive.
I have mentioned this to someone who has a Sagaris on order, and its put a few ideas in his head. At the end of the day I guess its not so different to galvanising - which was considered the Holy Grail a few years ago.
I work in the rather large refinery in Hampshire - -right by the sea (as are nearly all refineries) 'cos we use the salt water for cooling.
Electrolytic corrosion will only take place if the dissimilar metals are far apart in the electrochemical series and are in the presence of an electrolyte. What happens with this process is that the steel is shot blasted to a 2.5 micron finish and then the molten aliminium is applied.
The heat of the molten ali (melting point of ali is 3 times that of steel?) vapourises any liquid/contaminants present on the steel surface, and then chemically bonds itself to the surface - thereby excluding anything that might become an electrolyte!
At least this is what the advertising blurb says! Several of our European affiliates have 6+ years experience with items coated with this system and performance so far is impressive.
I have mentioned this to someone who has a Sagaris on order, and its put a few ideas in his head. At the end of the day I guess its not so different to galvanising - which was considered the Holy Grail a few years ago.
now. nawarne said:
I have mentioned this to someone who has a Sagaris on order, and its put a few ideas in his head. At the end of the day I guess its not so different to galvanising - which was considered the Holy Grail a few years ago.
I should think a few others would be interested too.. Can you get back to us with a vague idea of prices? I've no intention of doign this to the car just yet, but you never know..
OK guys,
Firstly, to address GreenV8S comments: No, there is not a significant heat input to the component. The item to be coated is connected to an electrical source (in the same way as TVR apply the powder coat) so as to electrostatically charge the steel.
Then the molten ali is 'blown' onto the item. As the aliminium is now in microscopically sized particles (and oppositely charged) they do not put a large amount of heat into the steel due to the mass difference.
I will get some ideas of price in the New Year. I guess if I take my S to the company that we deal with then they would have a better idea of the scope of work.
Any one got an old bare chassis?
Firstly, to address GreenV8S comments: No, there is not a significant heat input to the component. The item to be coated is connected to an electrical source (in the same way as TVR apply the powder coat) so as to electrostatically charge the steel.
Then the molten ali is 'blown' onto the item. As the aliminium is now in microscopically sized particles (and oppositely charged) they do not put a large amount of heat into the steel due to the mass difference.
I will get some ideas of price in the New Year. I guess if I take my S to the company that we deal with then they would have a better idea of the scope of work.
Any one got an old bare chassis?
OK Guys,
I've been on the 'phone to one of the local contractors who have done work for us in the refinery.
I asked for a quote for metal spraying (to 250 microns)a complete chassis - - estimating about 80 to 100 foot run of 16 gauge, 1 inch round and square section tube. The guy came back with a ball park (top heavy) price of about £600 to £700 - which includes shot blasting. Sounds pricey, but I guess the plus is that you are talking about a 25 year life.
For anyone who wants more info the company is
HITECH
Chickenhall Trading estate
Eastliegh nr Southampton, Hants
Tel 023 8061 1789.
Ted - hope this isn't considered advertising! Just a reply to a question !
I've been on the 'phone to one of the local contractors who have done work for us in the refinery.
I asked for a quote for metal spraying (to 250 microns)a complete chassis - - estimating about 80 to 100 foot run of 16 gauge, 1 inch round and square section tube. The guy came back with a ball park (top heavy) price of about £600 to £700 - which includes shot blasting. Sounds pricey, but I guess the plus is that you are talking about a 25 year life.
For anyone who wants more info the company is
HITECH
Chickenhall Trading estate
Eastliegh nr Southampton, Hants
Tel 023 8061 1789.
Ted - hope this isn't considered advertising! Just a reply to a question !
*Devil's advocate*
One thing about this finish - how impact resistant is it? May be good for ships, pipes & rigs etc, but may not cope so well with stone/debris impacting at speed and chipping through the aluminium coating. In which case, after getting this done, you still have to have it sealed in a thick impact resistant undercoat etc and check it every so often etc. In which case, for the cost, there may be no appreciable advantage over zinc galvanising?
One thing about this finish - how impact resistant is it? May be good for ships, pipes & rigs etc, but may not cope so well with stone/debris impacting at speed and chipping through the aluminium coating. In which case, after getting this done, you still have to have it sealed in a thick impact resistant undercoat etc and check it every so often etc. In which case, for the cost, there may be no appreciable advantage over zinc galvanising?
Harry,
Its got to be at least as good as the original powder coating. At least the weld areas will see the shot blast to remove weld slag. My T/A's powder coat is coming off where welding slag WAS NOT removed before coating. These T/A's had been renewed just before I bought the car, so are about 3 years old.
In November I was involved in installing a 4m x 1.2m HP drum that was Ali Sprayed before arriving on site.
In order to 'rig' it before the main lift, we used wire strops around the vessel's circumference to lift into the vertical position - and the coating still looked good after this (fairly rough) treatment.
The coating appears to be embedded into the surface of the parent metal -
Its got to be at least as good as the original powder coating. At least the weld areas will see the shot blast to remove weld slag. My T/A's powder coat is coming off where welding slag WAS NOT removed before coating. These T/A's had been renewed just before I bought the car, so are about 3 years old.
In November I was involved in installing a 4m x 1.2m HP drum that was Ali Sprayed before arriving on site.
In order to 'rig' it before the main lift, we used wire strops around the vessel's circumference to lift into the vertical position - and the coating still looked good after this (fairly rough) treatment.
The coating appears to be embedded into the surface of the parent metal -
nawarne said:
Harry,
Its got to be at least as good as the original powder coating. At least the weld areas will see the shot blast to remove weld slag. My T/A's powder coat is coming off where welding slag WAS NOT removed before coating. These T/A's had been renewed just before I bought the car, so are about 3 years old.
In November I was involved in installing a 4m x 1.2m HP drum that was Ali Sprayed before arriving on site.
In order to 'rig' it before the main lift, we used wire strops around the vessel's circumference to lift into the vertical position - and the coating still looked good after this (fairly rough) treatment.
The coating appears to be embedded into the surface of the parent metal -
Nawarne - I hear you. Pies; I take the point about galvanising too.
If I ever went for a chassis resto, I would go with the aluminium coating (after checking it out) above all other primary coatings. However, a second 'soft' impact resistant coating would still go on the car - soft plastic powder coat or simply underseal, or similar.
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