Vantage Clutch
Discussion
Hi guys,
Ok so...... I have a worrying feeling that having just bought my 09 Vantage 4.7 manual that the clutch may be going, its slipped a couple of times with high torque, my foot being well clear of the clutch pedal!
Has anyone had a replacement and if so what did it cost, I've seen people talk about £2500 and 19h labour? Really?!
Also has anyone tried the AHM replacement kit (http://www.astonmartincare.co.uk/clutch/) if so reviews/thoughts? I don't live far from AHM so they could be a great option instead of main dealer prices? I am yet to contact them so have no idea of their rates though!
Thanks
Ok so...... I have a worrying feeling that having just bought my 09 Vantage 4.7 manual that the clutch may be going, its slipped a couple of times with high torque, my foot being well clear of the clutch pedal!
Has anyone had a replacement and if so what did it cost, I've seen people talk about £2500 and 19h labour? Really?!
Also has anyone tried the AHM replacement kit (http://www.astonmartincare.co.uk/clutch/) if so reviews/thoughts? I don't live far from AHM so they could be a great option instead of main dealer prices? I am yet to contact them so have no idea of their rates though!
Thanks
A twin-plate is a favoured upgrade for the V8V, both of 4.3 and 4.7 variants. Do a search on here. It is offered by lots of companies, including the forum sponsor. I've not personally heard of AHM and I can't remember their name being mentioned on here before.
The cost to replace the OEM clutch is indeed about £2.5k. A twin-plate a bit more. And it's at least 10 hours of labour (if you know what you're doing). The transaxle, torque tube and driveshaft all have to be moved out of the way to access the clutch. Whilst they are there, get them to put a lightweight flywheel in as well.
The cost to replace the OEM clutch is indeed about £2.5k. A twin-plate a bit more. And it's at least 10 hours of labour (if you know what you're doing). The transaxle, torque tube and driveshaft all have to be moved out of the way to access the clutch. Whilst they are there, get them to put a lightweight flywheel in as well.
Had the car about 3 weeks of which I've only driven her for about 2 weeks! No hard starts or crazy driving
Had some good replies, need to decide on wether to replace for an original part or upgrade. Can get the original for about £1200, cheapest upgrade I've found so far is about £2500 but plenty more research to do. Anyone's experience of upgraded clutches would be a great help, searching the forums as well!
Had some good replies, need to decide on wether to replace for an original part or upgrade. Can get the original for about £1200, cheapest upgrade I've found so far is about £2500 but plenty more research to do. Anyone's experience of upgraded clutches would be a great help, searching the forums as well!
As you didnt buy from an individual then you should be in a good place.
Google Sales of Goods act 1979.
Unless they identified the clutch as an issue at time of sale, and can prove this, then you are in a strong position. Note: within 6mths of purchase the onus is on them to prove that the clutch was fine, not on you to prove it was faulty.
According to the act all goods must be:
•as described
•of satisfactory quality and
•fit for purpose
If they're not, the retailer is in breach of contract and you have a claim under the Sale of Goods Act
If the car is not sold in a roadworthy condition you can request a replacement, fix, or refund. All of this is in the consumers favour not the seller so be sure you know your rights before speaking to the Dealer Principal in a polite manner. Remember, until they take it apart they can't be sure of the problem. It might be an item that has failed and can be warrantied. Hence my advice to be polite.
All that said, I would argue that clutches erode over time (months if not years) and the problem was there three weeks ago. It will be up to them to prove otherwise.
Google Sales of Goods act 1979.
Unless they identified the clutch as an issue at time of sale, and can prove this, then you are in a strong position. Note: within 6mths of purchase the onus is on them to prove that the clutch was fine, not on you to prove it was faulty.
According to the act all goods must be:
•as described
•of satisfactory quality and
•fit for purpose
If they're not, the retailer is in breach of contract and you have a claim under the Sale of Goods Act
If the car is not sold in a roadworthy condition you can request a replacement, fix, or refund. All of this is in the consumers favour not the seller so be sure you know your rights before speaking to the Dealer Principal in a polite manner. Remember, until they take it apart they can't be sure of the problem. It might be an item that has failed and can be warrantied. Hence my advice to be polite.
All that said, I would argue that clutches erode over time (months if not years) and the problem was there three weeks ago. It will be up to them to prove otherwise.
krisdelta said:
There is an independant Aston specialist called David Appleby who do like for like clutch plate replacements for @£1200.
I'm not sure that you're comparing apples to apples. I think that price is for the friction plate only. They leave the old flywheel on. Other independents aren't happy to do this.
BravoV8V said:
I'm not sure that you're comparing apples to apples. I think that price is for the friction plate only. They leave the old flywheel on.
Other independents aren't happy to do this.
Surely it depends if the flywheel actually needs replacing? Cant you get a reskim?Other independents aren't happy to do this.
It would be interesting if people could quote what they have paid for the various options from main deals and the various independents including upgrade options, people seem a little cagey to actually say what they have paid.
gibbon said:
It would be interesting if people could quote what they have paid for the various options from main deals and the various independents including upgrade options, people seem a little cagey to actually say what they have paid.
OK, I'll start this one off. Clutch was slipping when I test drove car at main dealer (still can't quite believe that). Therefore full new OEM clutch fitted and paid £0-00. Please note OP, this is what you should push for.pierstuk2000 said:
Had the car about 3 weeks of which I've only driven her for about 2 weeks! No hard starts or crazy driving
Had some good replies, need to decide on wether to replace for an original part or upgrade. Can get the original for about £1200, cheapest upgrade I've found so far is about £2500 but plenty more research to do. Anyone's experience of upgraded clutches would be a great help, searching the forums as well!
Go back to who you bought it from and ask for a good will contribution to replace the clutch.Had some good replies, need to decide on wether to replace for an original part or upgrade. Can get the original for about £1200, cheapest upgrade I've found so far is about £2500 but plenty more research to do. Anyone's experience of upgraded clutches would be a great help, searching the forums as well!
I love the BR lightened flywheel/clutch combo in my car
I've driven a few with it in, they all rev out and change gear quicker.
Edited by mikey k on Sunday 2nd November 19:50
pierstuk2000 said:
Ok guys battle still going but.......
I know on a diesel that you have to replace the flywheel at the same time as the clutch, do you have to on the Vantage and if so why?
Thanks
Not strictly true about all diesels, it depends on the car - as always. It's advisable to replace a dual mass flywheel when doing a clutch simply because 99% of the labour has already been done. A dual mass flywheel doubles up as a damping device for harsh vibrations caused by the engine and reduces shock loading on the gearbox. The DMF mech can wear which leads to all sorts of awful sounding rattling and knocking before failure. Once the clutch starts to slip, chances are the car has travelled enough miles to raise question marks about the future longevity of a DMF flywheel. So it's just a case of "while you're there".I know on a diesel that you have to replace the flywheel at the same time as the clutch, do you have to on the Vantage and if so why?
Thanks
The flywheel on the Vantage is just a solid lump and its surface condition will only be revealed once the clutch has been removed. Overheating the flywheel (due to a slipping clutch or driver abuse) can produce cracks and a badly worn friction plate can leave scores. You can reduce the amount of potential damage occurring by ceasing to drive the car with a slipping clutch. So until your car has been stripped down you won't know the condition of the flywheel face.
pierstuk2000 said:
Ok guys battle still going but.......
I know on a diesel that you have to replace the flywheel at the same time as the clutch, do you have to on the Vantage and if so why?
Thanks
This shouldnt be a battle. If the dealer is refusing to give you what you want (assuming that is reasonable) then simply return the car. There are others out there, you will be £2k better off, and the dealer is stuck with a car that they need to fix AND then find another buyer for. Hardly in the Dealers interest to allow any of that to happen.I know on a diesel that you have to replace the flywheel at the same time as the clutch, do you have to on the Vantage and if so why?
Thanks
pierstuk2000 said:
Ok guys battle still going but.......
I know on a diesel that you have to replace the flywheel at the same time as the clutch, do you have to on the Vantage and if so why?
Thanks
From another thread:I know on a diesel that you have to replace the flywheel at the same time as the clutch, do you have to on the Vantage and if so why?
Thanks
BamfordMike said:
when needing a clutch change the oem cast flywheel is always usually warped, as is the pressure plate,
So, yes, the flywheel usually needs to be changed as well.Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff