Door opens, but window doesn't drop down
Discussion
blue 4.5 said:
Does anyone know if the sensor is the gold metal thing on the bottom of the door, or is it somewhere else?
My sensor is at the bottom of the door, silver in colour tho', but should be the same thing.
Mine broke a few weaks ago.
Press the button and the window and door would open, but the window would not shut when closing the door, therefore not able to arm the alarm.
A pair of new sensors were about £45 from TVR Centre Barnet, and are easy to fit.
Different symptoms i know but he cause could be the same, have you tried taking the door panel off and unplugging the connectors a few times, it could just be poor contacts?
The sensor on the bottom of the door is a proximity switch. There is nothing to go wrong! The only fault I know of is in the wiring. TVR seem to have major problem using sub standard connectors and wire.
If your interior light is not going out when the door is shut then it is the cabling that goes from the sensor through the door. If the light is going out then it is the control box.
All you need to do, if it is the cabling, is take the door trim off. This is simple to do just undo the 8 or so bolts (countersunk) around the edge. The door trim will come away with ease but you will have to cut some sealant at the top if it has been put on correctly before.
Then look at the wires that come from the switch on the inside of the door. I am sure you will find some damp and corroded terminals in there. Just replace these with good quality ones, waterproof them and refit the door trim.
Whole job should take no longer than an hour.
Oh remember to replace the sealant at the top edge of the door.
If your interior light is not going out when the door is shut then it is the cabling that goes from the sensor through the door. If the light is going out then it is the control box.
All you need to do, if it is the cabling, is take the door trim off. This is simple to do just undo the 8 or so bolts (countersunk) around the edge. The door trim will come away with ease but you will have to cut some sealant at the top if it has been put on correctly before.
Then look at the wires that come from the switch on the inside of the door. I am sure you will find some damp and corroded terminals in there. Just replace these with good quality ones, waterproof them and refit the door trim.
Whole job should take no longer than an hour.
Oh remember to replace the sealant at the top edge of the door.
It's got me now!!!
It must be catching, I have exactly the same problem.
The magnet is there and clean, I've changed the connectors just inside the door. I've tried "tricking" the door by moving a magnet to the sensor, and the sensor to a magent. Works sometimes, but not often.
The interior light is staying on so it's not the control box.
What's next on the list of things to do?
Help!!
It must be catching, I have exactly the same problem.
The magnet is there and clean, I've changed the connectors just inside the door. I've tried "tricking" the door by moving a magnet to the sensor, and the sensor to a magent. Works sometimes, but not often.
The interior light is staying on so it's not the control box.
What's next on the list of things to do?
Help!!
It turned out on mine to be a bit more than rubbing the magic connection or cleaning the sills. Not even connecting/disconnecting control box helped. It turned out to be a broken switch inside the door and took the mechanic about an hour to sort out. If it is the same issue then try and get it sorted out asap as my problem eventually also stopped all the door/boot from opening.
Have you checked the window sensor (reed switch).
I've heard they are a bit iffy sometimes.
Basically it goes something like this.
You hit the switch which completes a circuit. This tells the window to open. When window reaches the limiter this completes that circuit with respect to earth. This then tells the door lock that it can open and the springyness from the rubbers pushes the door out.
If you have a bad earth then the circuit cannot be completed.
The black wire from the magnet sensor should be your earth and the white/purple wire should be your live (12V probably, never checked). The eventually make their way to Multiway Connector 1 and from there to the box in the boot.
From what you've described I would check the earths and connectors again, then start looking elsewhere if all the earths are ok. If the window doesn't go down when the door opens then I would think its more likely to be in the reed switch. If it doesn't go up when you close then something to do with the magnet sensor.
Disclaimer: I am in no way a sparky or anything like that and take no responsibility for anybodys actions, etc, etc....
PS. YHM a little later.
I've heard they are a bit iffy sometimes.
Basically it goes something like this.
You hit the switch which completes a circuit. This tells the window to open. When window reaches the limiter this completes that circuit with respect to earth. This then tells the door lock that it can open and the springyness from the rubbers pushes the door out.
If you have a bad earth then the circuit cannot be completed.
The black wire from the magnet sensor should be your earth and the white/purple wire should be your live (12V probably, never checked). The eventually make their way to Multiway Connector 1 and from there to the box in the boot.
From what you've described I would check the earths and connectors again, then start looking elsewhere if all the earths are ok. If the window doesn't go down when the door opens then I would think its more likely to be in the reed switch. If it doesn't go up when you close then something to do with the magnet sensor.
Disclaimer: I am in no way a sparky or anything like that and take no responsibility for anybodys actions, etc, etc....
PS. YHM a little later.
swindorski46 said:
Every time I disconnect one of the wires from the screw type sensor thing (at the connectors) the window activates and the lights go out.
What about buying a new screw thread bit?
If you know what I mean!
Your symptoms are axactly the same as mine, I tried everything, even trying to fool the 'screw thread bit'. In the end I gave up and bought a new switch 'the screw thread bit' fitted it myself (dead Easy) and everything worked fine.
You can only buy them in pairs, they are about £45 from The TVR Centre. Keep the other as a spare.
njw 77 said:
Just got back from 4 days in Rome (its a hard job, but...etc) and I have a slightly different problem. Door switch doesnt work. Lights go out, door opens and window drops from inside button. Just the door switch. I'm guessing it means a door insert off and check/clean wires?
Is this from the mirror button? If it is I am sure is just a door panel off and clean wire jobby!
>> Edited by Extra 300 Driver on Friday 7th January 23:58
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