Moved from Chim' to Wedge?
Discussion
Good Morning all. As the title suggests I've parted some time ago from my Chimaera and now have bought a 2.8i Wedge. I missed the V8 but more, the help and banter from the Chim' forum. What have I bought? Well, not actually seen it yet but it's a 1983 2.8i Tamsmin. Engine in 'kit' form so a long term project. Lots of questions but initially engine re-build pointers. Do I need to replace main/bigend & head bolts to rebuild etc? It comes with a Haynes Manual but are there any other helpful publications? Thanks for any replies and look forward to the free flow of info' plus the expected banter that I enjoyed on the Chim' forum. Cheers J C.
PS She doesn't know yet!!
PS She doesn't know yet!!
If it has its original engine it almost certainly won't have hardened valve seats as preferred when running on unleaded petrol. Just to make sure, check the engine number: adjacent to it there should be the letters PR (this is to differentiate between the 2.3L and 2.8L versions), if it's followed by a D or E then it DOES have hardened valve seats.
That aside, whether or not the man and big-end shells need replacing is usually determined by the condition of the shells and the crank journals which run in them. If the crank and shells are still in the block then the correct shells are probably in the right places but if the crank's out and the shells are tossed in a bag, forget it and start again. Usual technique involves measuring all the journals with a micrometer for parallel and ovality, no scoring is allowed etc., the shells should be an even mottled grey colour - any copper showing means they're worn.
If the engine's in bits and you have no fat history of work carried out, assume that all the suspension bushes will be shagged.
The list goes on...
That aside, whether or not the man and big-end shells need replacing is usually determined by the condition of the shells and the crank journals which run in them. If the crank and shells are still in the block then the correct shells are probably in the right places but if the crank's out and the shells are tossed in a bag, forget it and start again. Usual technique involves measuring all the journals with a micrometer for parallel and ovality, no scoring is allowed etc., the shells should be an even mottled grey colour - any copper showing means they're worn.
If the engine's in bits and you have no fat history of work carried out, assume that all the suspension bushes will be shagged.
The list goes on...
Thanks Wedg1e. Not something I'd considered reference valve seats. I did have a similar problem with an MGB trying to verify whether hardened valve seats were fitted but got round the problem by fitting a stage 1 head. It appears that the engine was original removed because of a light tapping, (Small Ends maybe?) anyway the engine was then taken to "Grays of Essex" block chemically cleaned, bores honed to accept original Hepolite pistons and new rings. Crankshaft in excellent condition, standard size, polished journals c/w lead idmium shells. Heads cleaned and blasted. New fast road Kent cam and high volume Kent oil pump. These details given by the previous owner. So what have I got? As you say no history other than a collection of bits.
The little knowledge I have of V6's is from previously owned S2 Scimitars fitted with the 3 Litre lump. Can't remember what I used to run that on.
So really the 'first port of call'is a workshop manual for the engine re-assembly? However I agree the suspension, electrics etc will no doubt require attention/renewal! Should have it running next weekend. Thanks for the reply Wedg1e look forward to any more help/replies, and NO it's not my round.
Cheers John C.
The little knowledge I have of V6's is from previously owned S2 Scimitars fitted with the 3 Litre lump. Can't remember what I used to run that on. So really the 'first port of call'is a workshop manual for the engine re-assembly? However I agree the suspension, electrics etc will no doubt require attention/renewal! Should have it running next weekend. Thanks for the reply Wedg1e look forward to any more help/replies, and NO it's not my round. Cheers John C. The Haynes manual for the Granada Mk2 or Capri will tell you all you need to know about the engine and to an extent the front suspension as well!
Some people swear by the Steve Heath book on the Wedge but you can find 99% of what you need to know in the manuals for the Granada/Capri, the Jag XJ6 and the TR7.
Wedge electrics are simple enough, there's not much equipment on the cars and a lot of the issuea are caused by bad earths or corroded connectors.
Some people swear by the Steve Heath book on the Wedge but you can find 99% of what you need to know in the manuals for the Granada/Capri, the Jag XJ6 and the TR7.
Wedge electrics are simple enough, there's not much equipment on the cars and a lot of the issuea are caused by bad earths or corroded connectors.
Welcome to the world of Wedges...If that engine is what it says then it should be good for 180-200bhp..The Cologne is a strong old lump really..And it should sound a bit "Tappy"..Not rattly...Unleaded heads would be nice...Not cheap though...You say "Grays of Essex"?? Is this SE engines??..Im sure i have heard some naughty things about a similarly sounding company..Shame as i had a Sprintex supercharger kit that would of gone straight on yours...
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.....It's not the valve seats that are hardened as the Cologne motor don't have seat inserts anyway, it's the valve material, if it's not fitted with the correct valve material already then just monitor the valve clearences if you find they start to close up then you will need to attend to a top end rebuild , hardly rocket science considering that pushrod engine valve clearences always loosen with age not tighten, IMO I bet you won't have any issues other than retarding the ign timing 4 degrees if you want to use reg unleaded if using Super then leave it on factory settings, however I recommend you check cam and lifter condition and renew the fibre timing gear set along with the hexagonal oil pump drive shaft, but like mentioned already the Cologne is a tough cookie.
Edited by Sardonicus on Saturday 8th November 23:10
phillpot said:
Head bolts are "stretch bolts" and should not be re-used.
Are you sure? I thought stretch bolts were a work of devilry that generally only appeared on engines post-mid-80s... the Cologne dates from a prehistoric era when things were built to be rebuildable. That said it's about 17 years since I rebuilt one, I don't recall whether I used new ones or not.
Hey Chaps you've certainly lived up to my expectations of the TVR's owners help and advise I've enjoyed in the past. Many thanks for all the replies and advice. Until I 'eyeball' what I've bought I'm sure a host of questions will follow. Primarily though it's to replace bigend/main bolts on assembly and the oil pump drive? The heads, as previously mentioned, are either suitable for unleaded or not. Incidentally are "Burton Engineering" a good supplier of engine parts? Again many thanks for the replies. Cheers John C.
Primarily though it's to replace bigend/main bolts on assembly and the oil pump drive? The heads, as previously mentioned, are either suitable for unleaded or not. Incidentally are "Burton Engineering" a good supplier of engine parts? Again many thanks for the replies. Cheers John C. 
John042 said:
are "Burton Engineering" a good supplier of engine parts?
Hi mate...Also known as "Burton Power"...They are a good source of parts but they can be a bit pricey..I may have another contact depending on what you want, They do use Burton but have been specialising in Ford Cortina/ Capri and Granada for over 30 years so know all the good resources for parts available.They fitted a high pressure oil pump in mine as the original were pants...Ziga
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