'94 Range Rover Classic as a daily?
Discussion
Sure, why not.
Check for rust everywhere especially the bulkhead on soft dashes.
Be prepared for it to work now and not in a few weeks but for this time of year its a great thing to use.
If that's an up together example you won't lose at that price.
LPG is useful but a shame its been hacked into the boot.
Check for rust everywhere especially the bulkhead on soft dashes.
Be prepared for it to work now and not in a few weeks but for this time of year its a great thing to use.
If that's an up together example you won't lose at that price.
LPG is useful but a shame its been hacked into the boot.
I use mine nearly everyday (at least 4-5 days a week), mines a '91 Vogue (non-SE) Auto.
The fuel economy is frightening (not helped by a dodgy thermostat which is allowing mine to run too rich), my last few tanks have been somewhere between 8 & 11mpg, though this includes some foot to the floor acceleration at times. It should average somewhere around 12 around town, and you may struggle into the very low 20s on a run at 56mph.
Just watch for rust (sills, inner wings, body panels and bits of the chassis), nasty tapping noises from the top end of the engine, and make sure it shifts smoothly through the gears, both in High and Low range. Electrics can also be a problem, (mine has some very strange tendencies), so make sure everything works.
Great cars to drive around in, and extremely competent at traveling long distances.
ETA:
Mine cost £1k, and while the bodywork is battered beyond belief, the chassis is extremely solid, and has just ticked over 68k miles. It drives near enough perfectly, with the exception of some old bushes which I shall be replacing after winter.
I've found that spending more doesn't necessarily get you into a solid, reliable Range Rover. Don't discount some of the cheaper stuff, I know some of the cheaper stuff can be terrifyingly bad, but much of it won't have been botched together to make a fast buck.
The fuel economy is frightening (not helped by a dodgy thermostat which is allowing mine to run too rich), my last few tanks have been somewhere between 8 & 11mpg, though this includes some foot to the floor acceleration at times. It should average somewhere around 12 around town, and you may struggle into the very low 20s on a run at 56mph.
Just watch for rust (sills, inner wings, body panels and bits of the chassis), nasty tapping noises from the top end of the engine, and make sure it shifts smoothly through the gears, both in High and Low range. Electrics can also be a problem, (mine has some very strange tendencies), so make sure everything works.
Great cars to drive around in, and extremely competent at traveling long distances.
ETA:
Mine cost £1k, and while the bodywork is battered beyond belief, the chassis is extremely solid, and has just ticked over 68k miles. It drives near enough perfectly, with the exception of some old bushes which I shall be replacing after winter.
I've found that spending more doesn't necessarily get you into a solid, reliable Range Rover. Don't discount some of the cheaper stuff, I know some of the cheaper stuff can be terrifyingly bad, but much of it won't have been botched together to make a fast buck.
Edited by 0llie on Thursday 27th November 14:34
Edited by 0llie on Thursday 27th November 14:39
They are solid car's.
Basic tough as nails ladder frame construction, heavy duty suspension and solid axles, minimal electrics and no electronics.
Perfect for our pot-hole strewn roads.
They do like to rust though, and make sure it hasn't leaked all of it's oil out of the gearbox/transfer box/differentials
Basic tough as nails ladder frame construction, heavy duty suspension and solid axles, minimal electrics and no electronics.
Perfect for our pot-hole strewn roads.
They do like to rust though, and make sure it hasn't leaked all of it's oil out of the gearbox/transfer box/differentials
Hi there it should be fine so long as its well serviced.
Ive been commuting my 600 miles this week in a 170,000 mile 1997 300tdi discovery 3dr, got it for a pound a month ago and after a new head gasket its good to go. just need to take everything a little easier than in a new vehicle, will be back to the modern car tonight tho
old cars are great but they just need more sympathetic driving in my experience if you want them not to go pop!
AG
Ive been commuting my 600 miles this week in a 170,000 mile 1997 300tdi discovery 3dr, got it for a pound a month ago and after a new head gasket its good to go. just need to take everything a little easier than in a new vehicle, will be back to the modern car tonight tho
old cars are great but they just need more sympathetic driving in my experience if you want them not to go pop!
AG
Aids0G said:
H
old cars are great but they just need more sympathetic driving in my experience if you want them not to go pop!
AG
I would argue that a full rebuild will yield a vehicle far less worried about how you drive it than a most modern things.old cars are great but they just need more sympathetic driving in my experience if you want them not to go pop!
AG
This is a range rover classic chassis and drivetrain with a fibreglass body bolted onto it
Edited by skyrover on Thursday 27th November 17:36
skyrover said:
Aids0G said:
H
old cars are great but they just need more sympathetic driving in my experience if you want them not to go pop!
AG
I would argue that a full rebuild will yield a vehicle far less worried about how you drive it than a most modern things.old cars are great but they just need more sympathetic driving in my experience if you want them not to go pop!
AG
This is a range rover classic chassis and drivetrain with a fibreglass body bolted onto it
Edited by skyrover on Thursday 27th November 17:36
skyrover said:
They are solid car's.
minimal electrics and no electronics.
the old ones sure but that one will have plenty of electrics - seat adjustments, seat heating, EAS, front screen etc. These go wrong but they don't stop the car except maybe the EAS.minimal electrics and no electronics.
Electronics - in a basic sense. Basic OBDII stuff and rudimentary blink tests.
I'd still do it despite thinking my EAS was up the swanee today. Hopefully it isn't.
You can always fit Disco or Range rover springs to your Defender for a plusher ride...
Defender 90 spring rates are 175 lb/inch front and 225 lb/inch rear compared to the Disco's 150 lb/inch front and 155/215^ lb/inch rear
http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html
Defender 90 spring rates are 175 lb/inch front and 225 lb/inch rear compared to the Disco's 150 lb/inch front and 155/215^ lb/inch rear
http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html
skyrover said:
You can always fit Disco or Range rover springs to your Defender for a plusher ride...
Defender 90 spring rates are 175 lb/inch front and 225 lb/inch rear compared to the Disco's 150 lb/inch front and 155/215^ lb/inch rear
http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html
thats very true, its on heavy duty springs with normal shocks all round currently as I couldn't stand it when the back dipped while towing, also much prefer the handling on the harder springs and bushes. best riding Defender we had years ago was a 2003 td5 110 xs no anti roll bars but it was surprisingly comfortable!Defender 90 spring rates are 175 lb/inch front and 225 lb/inch rear compared to the Disco's 150 lb/inch front and 155/215^ lb/inch rear
http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html
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